Multiplex

[bcalla]

This is a great looking pedal.  How did you make that faceplate?  It's beautiful.  Or is there a thread somewhere on this site that shows how to do it?

[selfdestroyer]

My god that is a perfect faceplate. I have the hardest time getting the dimensions right when I "attempt" to make them. Would you mind sharing your process?

[morgcl]

So clean looking! Great work!

[lincolnic]

Looks great! I remember my first delay pedal...I hope you enjoy yours as much as I did (and still do).

[billstein]

This is a great looking pedal.  How did you make that faceplate?  It's beautiful.  Or is there a thread somewhere on this site that shows how to do it?

My god that is a perfect faceplate. I have the hardest time getting the dimensions right when I "attempt" to make them. Would you mind sharing your process?

The faceplate is etched like any other PCB is. I used PNP, ironed it on and then etched it with Ferric Chloride.

To get it fitting correctly. I downloaded a datasheet for the Hammond 1590bb that has all the measurements I needed, then used Adobe Illustrator to do the design.

After flipping the artwork and printing it out, I ironed it onto the PC board. There were a few spots I had to touch up. The best tool I've found for that is a pen Steve sells at Small Bear.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=590

Be careful when you push down on the tip to get the ink flowing. Don't do iton the board itself because the ink comes gushing out. Do it on something you don't care about. Found that out the hard way. It also seems to be helpful to do a couple of coats of ink. This doesn't always work but it is a lot better than a sharpie.

When ironing, you can tell when the PNP has adhered because it turns darker. I'm getting better at this balance of not ironing to long and having the ink melt to much and spread and not ironing long enough where it doesn't adhere in places.

For cutting the board, I use a tile saw I picked up from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-3540-02-4-2-Amp-7-Inch-Tile/dp/B003HIWR08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369959264&sr=8-1&keywords=tile+saw

This allows me to line up the PC board against the rip fence and get a straight cut. I found the easiest way is to print the design, cut it out carefully and accurately, then place that on the PC board using it to set the distance for the saw cut.

After etching I drilled pilot holes in the faceplate and used those to mark the box to drill it. That assures that the holes in the faceplate and box line up.

As far as the rounded corners, I eyeballed those and used a file.

Sorry for the long winded reply. I've never tried faceplates like this before, so I'm a rookie at it, but if there is any other questions you have, fire away.

[gtangas]

LINDO!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing! Beautiful look!

[fendman]

Very nice etch on the faceplate

[TNblueshawk]

Great looking build Bill.

[selfdestroyer]

This is a great looking pedal.  How did you make that faceplate?  It's beautiful.  Or is there a thread somewhere on this site that shows how to do it?

My god that is a perfect faceplate. I have the hardest time getting the dimensions right when I "attempt" to make them. Would you mind sharing your process?

The faceplate is etched like any other PCB is. I used PNP, ironed it on and then etched it with Ferric Chloride.

To get it fitting correctly. I downloaded a datasheet for the Hammond 1590bb that has all the measurements I needed, then used Adobe Illustrator to do the design.

After flipping the artwork and printing it out, I ironed it onto the PC board. There were a few spots I had to touch up. The best tool I've found for that is a pen Steve sells at Small Bear.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=590

Be careful when you push down on the tip to get the ink flowing. Don't do iton the board itself because the ink comes gushing out. Do it on something you don't care about. Found that out the hard way. It also seems to be helpful to do a couple of coats of ink. This doesn't always work but it is a lot better than a sharpie.

When ironing, you can tell when the PNP has adhered because it turns darker. I'm getting better at this balance of not ironing to long and having the ink melt to much and spread and not ironing long enough where it doesn't adhere in places.

For cutting the board, I use a tile saw I picked up from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-3540-02-4-2-Amp-7-Inch-Tile/dp/B003HIWR08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369959264&sr=8-1&keywords=tile+saw

This allows me to line up the PC board against the rip fence and get a straight cut. I found the easiest way is to print the design, cut it out carefully and accurately, then place that on the PC board using it to set the distance for the saw cut.

After etching I drilled pilot holes in the faceplate and used those to mark the box to drill it. That assures that the holes in the faceplate and box line up.

As far as the rounded corners, I eyeballed those and used a file.

Sorry for the long winded reply. I've never tried faceplates like this before, so I'm a rookie at it, but if there is any other questions you have, fire away.

Thanks for the explanation, I really appreciate it. You have some great ideas that I will definitely try on my next faceplate build.

[aballen]

you should definitely put this in the contest, looks great.  I love the blue box caps too   EPCOS FTW!

[billstein]

you should definitely put this in the contest, looks great.  I love the blue box caps too   EPCOS FTW!

Thanks. Unfortunately I missed the deadline. I was trying to figure out a way to record sound into my computer and just ran out of time. In fact, I was working feverishly on it on the 31st and almost had it but was defeated by the curfew. 

I had a thought as I was trying. Is that midnight curfew on the last day of the month tied to a certain time zone?

[aballen]

You missed it, dont worry, there will be a June contest.

[billstein]

You missed it, dont worry, there will be a June contest.

Don't you have to enter the contest  in the same month you finished the pedal?