No Name

[alanp]

First and foremost, one thing must be clear and obvious -- this is ALL thanks to ElectricStorm's hard work. Without him, I'd've spent the day killing dwarves and night elves in World of Warcraft.

Secondly, thought I'd elaborate on how I normally do things.



I try and find an existing drill pattern. If I can't, like with the Tenebrion, I print something close to what I want (a 125B pattern, the stagefright), and modify it with masking tape, pen, a ruler, and the project board. Some people probably do impressive work in AutoCAD, I can't. My printer might be a laser, but it does those artifacts, so no good for etching. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. (The layout supports topmounted jacks, I don't like wiring them up.)



Then it's off in the car to Dad's workshop. (He has a big collection of tools. I don't.) The drill press makes VERY quick work of them, the only thing that slowed me down today was a rectangular hole.

Now, I have something special. Something very special. I had the populated board sitting on my desk for a couple weeks, and I spent this morning drilling the box (along with Nautilus and 'verb boxes.)

I spent roughly five and a half hours doing wiring and testing.



HELL YES BABY IT'S A FLANGE WITH NO NAME! (Thanks greatly, Jim, and also credit to the designers!)



This is what it looks like in the box. But that really doesn't give you a good idea of how freakin' annoying it is to wire. (Icecream container as insulator on the daughterboard side.)



There. I put it in the enclosure, measured wire, took it out, soldered the wire in, repeat, about six times. That's a lot of nuts to be doing and undoing.

But.

But.

But.

It fired up first freaking time! First pop, no issues! (Apart from forgetting to plug the guitar in, but that doesn't count.) Took maybe two minutes to set the regen and bbd bias, now I'm off and laughing.

I know what I'm going to be doing Sunday afternoon now 

[Giantsinbloom]

Mother of god.

Reading through this photo by photo my jaw came closer and closer to the floor until BAM with the last photo. Seriously impressive stuff! is the flange of your own design? Or is it a replication? Either way, you should be incredibly proud of this beautiful work of art!

Now... Any chance for some sound clips? I wanna hear what ol' no name sounds like!

[LaceSensor]

Nice. I might have to do this project at some point...

[alanp]

Giantsinbloom -- it's a copy of a Lovetone Flange With No Name, for which the legwork was done by ElectricStorm. (I'm just painting in his numbers )

I think I was way too timid on setting the regen, the Reaction control isn't oscillating like it should be. It's definitely unlike the Collosalus or Current Lover, more of a modular synth in a box than a proper flange... I'm going to have to spend more time learning how it works. The Space seems to be something of a tremolo, albeit one I don't have much control over, but it does sound good.

Jim -- good news in that the Bourns transformer seems to work okay, main good part about that is that Mouser carries it.

[LaceSensor]

Giantsinbloom -- it's a copy of a Lovetone Flange With No Name, for which the legwork was done by ElectricStorm. (I'm just painting in his numbers )

I think I was way too timid on setting the regen, the Reaction control isn't oscillating like it should be. It's definitely unlike the Collosalus or Current Lover, more of a modular synth in a box than a proper flange... I'm going to have to spend more time learning how it works. The Space seems to be something of a tremolo, albeit one I don't have much control over, but it does sound good.

Jim -- good news in that the Bourns transformer seems to work okay, main good part about that is that Mouser carries it.

Space is just a fixed depth amplitude modulation ie a tremolo
It's just ok on its own. The beauty is having time and space on at the same time...

[Hangingmonkey]

😳😳😳😳😳😳

[Parra]

this is amazing, just by looking at that board i get scared! eheh

[Haberdasher]

whew, gotta give you props!  it looks like quite an undertaking.
from the things you say, it sounds like it might be worth it too!

[electricstorm]

Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.

The ? Flange user manual is listed in my dropbox folder (link is in my signature below). Download it and that might help you out some with how it is used and what the controls all do. The settings sheet I included in the build docs should help you with your favorite settings, just make extra copies of it.

I currently have no way to make sound samples, so if you have time please do post some samples. I wanted to mount the project in the 1550G before posting a build report, but glad you were able to mount it and post it here.

One minor detail in the build docs is the wires going to "J" and "GND" for the Loopage switch are reversed when looking at the Main/Daughter Board wiring as compared to the Main Board/Switch wiring. Although it is an error (the wires are reversed on one set as opposed to the other) it doesn't really matter since the switch just supplies a ground path for the Loopage LED. The wires can be used either way.

Anyone wanting build docs, I should have them up in a day or two in the dropbox folder. If you don't want to wait, just PM your email address to me and I'll forward a copy to you till they are posted.

Thanks for the credit on it AlanP!! Hope you enjoy it and it lives up to the original!

Jim

Edit: Thanks for the info on the Bourns transformer (LM-NP-1001-B1L)!  Also one suggestion, should you decide to use a different voltage to power it with. There is a pad under the Regen Bias pot. If you drill that out (carefully), this will make it easier for you to make the adjustment when (or if) you change voltages. Just remember the direction you turn the pot will be reversed. The reason for having to adjust it when the supply voltage changes is that it affects the Regen Bias depending on the supply voltage used.

[nzCdog]

That's pretty epic Al... nice one

[alanp]

Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.

The guidelines seemed a bit subjective in terms of listening for oscillation, and I think I got it wrong :-/

I currently have no way to make sound samples, so if you have time please do post some samples. I wanted to mount the project in the 1550G before posting a build report, but glad you were able to mount it and post it here.

If I can, I'll get Ironbird13 around again to do some demo'ing for me. (This time I might even tell him before 5 minutes into recording ;-) )

Edit: Thanks for the info on the Bourns transformer!  Also one suggestion, should you decide to use a different voltage to power it with. There is a pad under the Regen Bias pot. If you drill that out (carefully), this will make it easier for you to make the adjustment when (or if) you change voltages. Just remember the direction you turn the pot will be reversed. The reason for having to adjust it when the supply voltage changes is that it affects the Regen Bias depending on the supply voltage used.

I've got a 3362 pot in there at the moment, next time I do a Mouser order I'm getting a Piher 22k to replace it with. (I'll widen the holes when I put it in.) For now, I'll live with the very mild setting.

[fendman]

Is there any way I can get the traces to print out on the transparency darker on this lovetone flanger...they are just far to light, I would never be able to get a decent etch from them.

I have had this happen a few times on other etching templates, and it is  a bit annoying.

Don't know if it is because it is a pdf file, as JPG files always seem to print really black.

Anybody have any ideas??

Thanks
Mike

[electricstorm]

Mike,

I posted some PnPs of the boards in the dropbox (link is in my signature below). These were from png files and are in MS Word 2007 format. You should not have to re-size them, but print it out and check for correct size using a 14 pin dip socket on IC1 in the layout. Also check to be sure the 3P4P rotary switch lines up before using it to make boards. Like I said, you should not have to re-size it but better safe than sorry!

Also, Haberdasher has graciously offered to make boards available for this project. Check with him for pricing.

Hope that helps.

Jim

[fendman]

Hey Jim, thanks very much for your help on this... I will try it when I get up in the morning , sounds good

cheers
Mike

[electricstorm]

Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.

The guidelines seemed a bit subjective in terms of listening for oscillation, and I think I got it wrong :-/

I messed with the settings along with what I read from the users manual and concluded this from an original ? Flange I was able to obtain. But it may vary some and , as you stated, could be subjective.

Did you get a chance to play around with it today? Thoughts?

Mike, you're welcome.

Jim