Bridge dissatisfaction...

[wolfingsworth]

So I got one of those Vintage Modified Jazzmasters about a year ago and did some work to it to make it a little more like a real Jazzmaster (new pickgaurd, rythm circuit, etc...). To my dismay, after I bought it, Squier came out with a jazzmaster that has all the typical accoutraments (dammit!). I really do like my guitar, except the bridge is totally lame and transfers very little resonance to the body. Anyone have any experience with these cheap bridges and/or have some suggestions for a retrofit?

[selfdestroyer]

So I got one of those Vintage Modified Jazzmasters about a year ago and did some work to it to make it a little more like a real Jazzmaster (new pickgaurd, rythm circuit, etc...). To my dismay, after I bought it, Squier came out with a jazzmaster that has all the typical accoutraments (dammit!). I really do like my guitar, except the bridge is totally lame and transfers very little resonance to the body. Anyone have any experience with these cheap bridges and/or have some suggestions for a retrofit?

I'm interested also. I just can not justify the cost of a  mastery bridge.

[alanp]

Don't know if they're on the Squier ones, but a magazine I read had a Q about those bridges. The writer said that you could get brackets that bolt on behind the bridge and put more tension to keep them in the saddles.

Kinda...
._____--------| normally
(ball-end,string __---, bridge |)

.__________V-| with the bracket thingy.

I don't know, it's been a year and a lot of beer since I read it.

[lincolnic]

You're talking about a Buzz Stop, Alan. They don't come standard on anything, it's an aftermarket part. I've got one on my Jazzmaster because I like playing with .10s, and it keeps them in place; the break angle over the saddles is increased. Makes it harder to do the fun behind-the-bridge stuff, though.

[wolfingsworth]

Actually, I'm talking about a totally different bridge altogether. The first run of the Vintage Modified Jazzmaster has an extremely "modified" bridge (not in a good way). There is one screw holding everything down and there are two posts that can raise and lower the bridge to adjust action, but they aren't securing anything down. I'm hoping the post spacing is close enough  to something like a tune o matic and I could just drill through for the string ends. any thoughts?Uploaded with ImageShack.usUploaded with ImageShack.us

[RobA]

From the image, it looks like a tune-o-matic type bridge would have intonation issue if you could use the existing holes. The holes are in front of what looks to be the maxed forward saddle position. That would be the center of a tune-o-matic saddle throw.

It might be a bit of a pain to match finish color and such, but it should be pretty easy to fill those holes with maple dowels and then drill holes for whatever bridge you'd want to put on.

[Cortexturizer]

I think Squier did everything right on the Mascis, here's a picture of mine. Gorgeous guitar that plays like a dream. The tremolo is closer to the bridge so the angle of strings is higher, the bridge is a TOM, it doesn't go out of tune, has great pickups [with a little pole adjusting], really, if you're into jazzmasters there's no better guitar for the money. Better than a MIM Classic Player, everybody keep saying it. And I concur.

[wolfingsworth]

I think Squier did everything right on the Mascis, here's a picture of mine. Gorgeous guitar that plays like a dream. The tremolo is closer to the bridge so the angle of strings is higher, the bridge is a TOM, it doesn't go out of tune, has great pickups [with a little pole adjusting], really, if you're into jazzmasters there's no better guitar for the money. Better than a MIM Classic Player, everybody keep saying it. And I concur.

I agree that the quality is quite high. The finish is excellent, and the neck feels amazing. My biggest gripe is with thes flimsy hardtail, which yours doesn't have. I'm really kicking myself for not waiting a few months and I could have bought the newer Squier Jazzmaster that actually has all the right parts. 

[wolfingsworth]

I was also thinking of just drilling thru just behind the bridge and keeping the blasted thing. But don't want to drill the body and then find out I put too much strain on the strings or whatever. All I'm truing to do is get some better sustain and resonance with what I have. Some tech advice from someone with more knowledge than myself would be much appreciated!

[jkokura]

What I would be trying to do is offload the guitar and get one that I wanted.

Jacob

[wolfingsworth]

Good point, Jacob. The problem is I have over $400 wrapped up in it and there's no way I could sell it without taking a hit. I think I'm doomed to try and fix it until it can't be fixed.

[jkokura]

Think about it this way...

How much are you going to have to put in to get it to what you want (X)? How much of a hit will you take when you sell it (Y)? Is X bigger or smaller than Y?

Is part of the reason you don't want to sell that you paid for it new, and you'll lose %25-35 right off the top? The answer to that problem is buying a used guitar rather than another new one.

Jacob