Spraypaint/topcoat recommendations?

[Guitarmatt]

I'd like to paint a racing stripe down the middle of a British racing green enclosure I got from pedalpartsplus. Then I'd like to put a decal on top and then clearcoat the whole thing. What's the appropriate spray paint to use? And does anyone have an opinion about drilling holes before or after painting and applying decals?

[GermanCdn]

Drill before you paint.  On powdercoat it doesn't make a big difference unless your bit skates alot (lesson here, use a drill press if you have one), but on spray paint it can lift the finish in the proximity of the hole, which usually isn't a big deal if it's your pots, but can be a pain if it's around your bezel.

As far as the type, I won't go as so far as to recommend a brand, but what I would recommend is that you try it on a small section of the back lid (mask most of it off, and use a small test area in the corner) to see how it holds up.  Reason I say this is I've used different colors from the same manufacturer on enclosures with the exact same surface prep, and had some stick like superglue and others lift three days after coating.

Same goes for the clear coat, test it on a small area with the power coat and the spray coat to make sure there isn't an incompatibility (bubbling, orange peeling, lifting, etc).


Have fun.

[davent]

A tip for clean edges, after you tape/mask off, spray the enclosure with your clearcoat. This will seal the tape edges preventing your second colour from seeping under the tape when you paint the stripe(s). The best way to ensure a straight line on an enclosure is to apply the mask all over the enclosure then use a steel rule or metal square with a razor knife to cut the to-be-painted sections out. Need a light touch and a very sharp knife.

I would drill before painting.

dave

[Hangingmonkey]

If for any reason you need to drill any holes to a painted box, I would suggest laying down some masking tape over the area to be drilled and then punch out the drill guide before drilling.  Ive done this on guitars and on metal boxes with good results.

[GermanCdn]

One more thing - use low tack masking tape (delicate surface, the blue stuff from 3M) if you're going over a spray painted box.  It cost more money, but there's nothing worse than pulling off the good old yellow masking tape and pulling off half the paint job in the process.

[davent]

You can reduce the tack of regular tape by first sticking it to another clean surface.  Another product to check out is frisket film, low tack, clear, designed for use on delicate surfaces.

[das234]

Good advice on masking for the stripes.  Also, remember that surface prep is at least half the battle.  Even if it's a pre-painted enclosure, make sure you clean it well to get rid of any contaminants before you spray over it and a light scuff can help the paint adhere.  And do beware of compatibility issues.  I'm new to pedal building but I learned from woodworking to ALWAYS make sample boards for my finishes from start to finish to ensure that everything goes well and looks how I want it to.  Better to run into problems on your sample part than on your precious project.

I was thinking of trying the Rustoleum hammered finish paint (either in a spray can or with HVLP sprayer) but haven't used it yet.  If anyone's tried it and has I review, I'd be curious how it worked.

[GermanCdn]

The hammered finish is one of the easiest rattle can jobs you can do, because it's so forgiving, just don't overdo it on the vertical surfaces as it has a tendency to clump at the bottom if it's too thick.  And if it has compatibility issues, it actually looks pretty cool, I put a coat of gold over a sea foam green  and it contracted into little pockets, making the whole pedal looked diseased.  Not what you want everytime, but cool once and a while.

Use it in a very well ventilated area, as it's pretty harsh, and if you predrill the holes, drill them a size too big, as they will close in when you spray it.

[wgc]

I'd probably do the stripe via a vinyl sign shop.  If your graphics are not too involved you can have them cut that out of you stripe and the original color will show as your print.

Then you can choose to clear coat or not.  If you decide you want to clear, let the sign co know your intent and they can probably help you avoid compatibility issues.  You'll want to avoid heavy coats at first regardless.

Clear lacquer is probably your best bet.  Others may disagree but rustoleum is my least fav