Kingslayer to Klon

[motter]

I have a kingslayer board, and I'd like to build it up as close to the original as possible.  I also happen so hate pedals with toggle switches on them (don't ask; I'm weird).  This means I don't want the OD and Clip switches on my Kingslayer.  I'm pretty sure I know how to execute this, but I just want someone to make sure I'm thinking straight.

Looking at the Kingslayer schematic, to eliminate the Clip switch, I would simply jumper pads 1 and 2 on the switch and install only diodes 4 and 5.

To eliminate the OD switch, I know I can omit the switch and diodes 2 and 3, but looking at the Klon schem on FSB it appears the feedback resistor around this opamp was 422k rather than the 1M in the Kingslayer.  I guess this gives the Kingslayer slightly more gain in this stage than the original Klon (but then the Kingslayer has the soft clippers).  

What would you do, besides chastise me for not including madbean's "improvements?"

[jubal81]

First of all, the Kingslayer is an excellent design and I think it sounds quite a bit better than stock. However, it sounds like you want a straight-up Klone.

You can get a Chimaera board from GrindCustoms

[stecykmi]

the kingslayer has a significantly modified power section (among other things). the sunking, the first edition clone, is more true to the original. if you can etch your own pcb's, the build doc is available in the extra projects forum, in the discontinued projects sub-forum.

[motter]

I get that you guys like the kingslayer.  I was just trying to make sure I wasn't missing anything on the schematic.  With the exception of the power supply (which I'll agree is an improvement), these four diodes, one resistor, and two caps (in the tone section) are the only differences between the Kingslayer and the Klon.  There's no need to use another board, especially considering I already have this one.

[madbean]

You will also need to change R9. On the Klon, it's a 2k b/w R10 and lug 3 of the Gain pot. On the Kingslayer the value is actually 10k and it's between the wiper and ground.

[motter]

 Thank you madbean. I didn't mean to sound rude btw, I really appreciate what you've done here. I just don't particularly want the diode options in this pedal. I'll probably keep the gain pot the way you have it in the kingslayer.

[oldhousescott]

Hi Motter,

I did a similar thing recently. I had built a vero Klone for a friend, but he blew it up by plugging in a reverse polarity PS. I rebuilt it with a Kingslayer board to have room for a battery (there was no room for one in the vero version). I made the component swaps to bring it in line with the Klon values and used only the one set of clippers to ground, no toggle switches. So, yeah, you're on the right track.

A couple of thing to note. I put a 1N5818 in series with the plus lead from the DC jack to prevent it from being blown up again due to the wrong PS being plugged in. Yeah, I lose a half volt of V+, but with the doubler power supply, I figure I've got enough headroom. Also, in the Kingslayer doc, the clip switch pinout is inconsistent. On the layout, terminal 1 connects to diodes D8 and D9, whereas on the schematic, terminal 1 connects to diodes D4 and D5. This is not an issue when using the switch as you can still switch between the two settings, but in my and your case with a permanent jumper, you need to use the board layout terminal numbering for placing your clipping diodes and jumper.

[madbean]

Scott- the terminals are actually consistent. The "1" on the PCB indicates lug1 of the Vol knob just above. I'm sorry for the confusion. On the more recent layouts, I've made pin1 on switches a square pad so it is more clear.

I also agree about the supply zener. I plugged in the wrong adaptor on my own build a few months ago and screwed it up. If I ever re-do the PCB, it's something I will include.

[madbean]

Thank you madbean. I didn't mean to sound rude btw, I really appreciate what you've done here. I just don't particularly want the diode options in this pedal. I'll probably keep the gain pot the way you have it in the kingslayer.

No worries, didn't think that. By all means, you should make it into what you want it to be!

[oldhousescott]

Woops! Sorry Brian. Damn, I need to get my eyes checked, haha!

Well, anyway, the D8/D9 diodes connect to the outboard pin of the clipping switch connection, and the D4/D5 diodes to the inboard pin. Hope that helps.