sea urchin, pop, pull-down resistor

[gtangas]

There are a few new delays projects on the forum, Brian, Josh, Mfair, etc...

But if we see the extra-projects section the project that takes the points is the sea urchin delay

I build two of these babys and love the sound!!

One of the problems that many of us encounter is the pop!

The first build i made i use the 100k resistor on the output jack and solved the issue. On this new one i cant kill the bugger!

So i start reading about the effect of the pull down resistor, but the circuit as it on R1...

Drilled the pcb and install a new 1M P-D resistor on the fx exit but...still ear the pop!!

I have several values that i didn't find at the time on the usual store... values like 20k resistor and 360k... so as many i use resistor values in series to achive the right number! Could be this on of the problems? since the tolerance doubles?

Does the cave dweller suffer from the same issue?

My main questions are:

   what do you guys thing is the reason this circuit so often makes the pop
   Could be the usage of the resistor in series?
   can we (with all the respect to Brian off course) make any change to the circuit? i dont know something like a cap replacement? create a discharge of the signal to ground somewhere along the path?   

I think this is a nice way to learn more about circuits... and just not making some legos builds!

Thx
Sérgio

[LaceSensor]

Try a different 3PDT, some of them are just clicky...

[midwayfair]

The stock version of the Sea Urchin (Deep Blue Delay) has no resistor to ground at the output, just a series 1K resistor. Thus it's possible to get some DC leakage at the output.

Usually, we don't encounter switch pop issues at the output of an effect because they have volume controls, which act as pull-down resistors.

In one version, you say you wired it from the tip to ground on the output jack. This is an incorrect way of doing it, even though it fixed the problem. You should change it so that the resistor goes from the effect (PCB) output to ground. DC pop only exists from the active circuitry. By putting it on your jack, you've effectively changed the output impedance of the box even in bypass.

In your second version, you've used a 1M resistor instead of 100K. It's perfectly possible that the resistor is too large to do its job. You should swap it out for a 100K in the same position. If that doesn't work, you might need to debug some other things.

Lace is right: Some switches are just clicky. This is a different sound. It sounds like the actual mechanical noise of the switch, but it leaks through into the signal path. DC pop described above is a big, bass-y noise.

[gtangas]

Sempre a aprender.... Allways learning my friend

I will try changing the Value of the extra resistor and see what happens

Another option is the footswitch, I bought a fews from tayda and so far so good... But...

Thx Mfair for the tips.... And Thx for all the demos on YouTube Man. It's hard to choose from so many projects and with a nice demo.... It helps a lot

[garfo]

Just experiment on the output of the board with the 100k.I have a 1.5M there that I will actually replace with a 100k too.
Todos sempre a aprender !!!

[nzCdog]

You could try replacing C4 with a film cap instead of electrolytic.  Cheap electros are leaky buckets for DC.

[gtangas]

Just experiment on the output of the board with the 100k.I have a 1.5M there that I will actually replace with a 100k too.
Todos sempre a aprender !!!

Ma nada! Ja nao era sem tempo escrever-se em portugues neste forum!!   

the cap replacement is a must try! after that it as a 1k resistor and the fx out! i will try that!