Neptune warp switch & other questions (at bottom)

[octa805]

Would it be possible to have a 2 color LED.

use color 1 to indicate on/off of effect

use color 2 to indicate when warp is engaged?

If so, what would that look like?

Thanks

[jimilee]

What is this warp you speak of? I am building a Neptune currently also.

[CRBMoA]

The 'WARP' is the insanity that happens when you engage the momentary SPST stomp switch.

It seems to me that you could get there with a DPDT moentary stomp and some sareful wiring of the Bi-color LED.

I haven't done it, but it seems plausible.

[octa805]

The 'WARP' is the insanity that happens when you engage the momentary SPST stomp switch.

It seems to me that you could get there with a DPDT moentary stomp and some sareful wiring of the Bi-color LED.

I haven't done it, but it seems plausible.

That makes sense and thanks.

Just the wiring gets me since isn't the SPST (or a DPDT) completing the circuit?

[midwayfair]

I'm not sure this is useful at all. Your foot will most likely be covering the LED while you're messing with the warp switch, and it's not like you're going to "leave it on" or anything ... you'll KNOW it's engaged because your foot will be holding it down.

On the other hand, you could so something pretty cool by putting an external LED in series with the LED in the vactrol (or the one you're pointing at the LDR). It'll light up when the warp switch is pressed, and then slowly go back to normal when you let off, giving you a visual indicator of how long the warp lasts.

Standard disclaimers: "I think" "untested" "might be cool."

[jimilee]

Standard disclaimers: "I think" "untested" "might be cool."

Can I get a hell yeah?? Ahahahahahaha I'm in the South so it's ok

[octa805]

I'm not sure this is useful at all. Your foot will most likely be covering the LED while you're messing with the warp switch, and it's not like you're going to "leave it on" or anything ... you'll KNOW it's engaged because your foot will be holding it down.

On the other hand, you could so something pretty cool by putting an external LED in series with the LED in the vactrol (or the one you're pointing at the LDR). It'll light up when the warp switch is pressed, and then slowly go back to normal when you let off, giving you a visual indicator of how long the warp lasts.

Standard disclaimers: "I think" "untested" "might be cool."

that sounds fun and kind of what I had in mind. the bi-color LED thing might not work cause I'd have the indicator on whenever I could hit the warp

[jimilee]

Is that like the tape speed on the multiplex?not totally useful but it's fun,especially for a bass player.

[octa805]

jimilee-check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_XVyHt5AFk

I have a real tech question.

I just finished this up. got delay & bypass going w/ a couple problems.

Question 1---realized I put the 3mm LED in wrong. duh. As I pulled it out I pulled one of the pads. crud. now what?


Question 2--I'm working off beans' standard wiring diagram (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf)

I wired all the pots using the lug number of 3,2,1, when looking from the back as shown on the link above to the appropriate 3,2,1 spots marked on the board only..........they all seem backwards? They work, just left is max and full right is min. the heck? Am I totally out to lunch? (very possible)

thanks!

[midwayfair]

jimilee-check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_XVyHt5AFk

I have a real tech question.

I just finished this up. got delay & bypass going w/ a couple problems.

Question 1---realized I put the 3mm LED in wrong. duh. As I pulled it out I pulled one of the pads. crud. now what?


Question 2--I'm working off beans' standard wiring diagram (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf)

I wired all the pots using the lug number of 3,2,1, when looking from the back as shown on the link above to the appropriate 3,2,1 spots marked on the board only..........they all seem backwards? They work, just left is max and full right is min. the heck? Am I totally out to lunch? (very possible)

thanks!

Always use the numbering on individual boards. The designer may flip the pot pads to make the layout better/smaller/easier.

For the lifted pad, if you only lifted one pad, you are probably fine and can still solder it in. Grab the schematic and find the closest part that connects to that pad. Check continuity, and if you don't have it, make yourself a jumper (just as if it was being built on perfboard). It won't look as pretty, but it'll work, which is the important part.

[octa805]

Pots--Agreed, I followed the numbering on the Neptune board except for the Feedback pot. Instead of 3,2,1 it was marked as 1,2,3. If I switch that it would work as expected, lowest on full left, highest on full right.

The other pots I did per the board and they all seem backwards. Weird. I can't be alone on that one.

I believe I pulled both pads on D1--the circle pad side of the LED. I'm struggling to figure out where that goes per the schematic to jump it

http://www.forrestwhitesides.com/node/113


thanks

[octa805]

does the circle pad of the D1 LED go to R18?

[lincolnic]

You're not alone on the pots being reversed. If I remember correctly, that's an accident with the screenprinting.

[jimilee]

Man this is awesome,I'm one 2n2 away from finishing this.turns out,I only had one.

[octa805]

You're not alone on the pots being reversed. If I remember correctly, that's an accident with the screenprinting.

I'm not crazy! Thank you!

Fixed the LED. Jumpered it to R18 and we're up & running. Thanks everyone!

Think I'll leave the pots reversed. Easier than pulling traces again.