soldering on etched boards

[DutchMF]

Only recently have I started soldering on etched versus fabricated boards, and I've read some stuff about people covering all traces of etched boards with a small layer of solder.... Is this necessary? Any advice would be really appreciated!

Paul 

[LaceSensor]

Only recently have I started soldering on etched versus fabricated boards, and I've read some stuff about people covering all traces of etched boards with a small layer of solder.... Is this necessary? Any advice would be really appreciated!

Paul 

the only difference I make is you have to heat the copper tracks a bit more with your iron at the joint before adding solder, but your mileage may vary

[aballen]

Not necessary.  I like to tin my etches with liquid tin, I have heard it makes a difference though I really do it to protect the copper traces from corrosion.

I use leaded solder which I do think flows better, but the real key is technique.  Make sure to wet the tip of your iron for good heat transfer to the pad and component and it is almost as easy as the player through holes.  Also a good clean tip makes a big difference too.

[RobA]

I don't cover the entire trace with solder. But, I do leave quite a bit of lead bent down along the trace and then solder this to the trace. For lots of parts on a board, it becomes more like point-to-point wiring. Since I started doing it this way I haven't had to debug a build on an etched board. It does take longer, but not a lot and it seems worth it to me.

[Stomptown]

Like stated above, corrosion is the only reason to consider soldering the tracks, but it ends up looking a bit messy as you can imagine. I have also heard of people using clear nail polish or lacquer to protect the tracks. Just make sure you rock it first though...

[DutchMF]

Like stated above, corrosion is the only reason to consider soldering the tracks, but it ends up looking a bit messy as you can imagine. I have also heard of people using clear nail polish or lacquer to protect the tracks. Just make sure you rock it first though...

That's a good bit of advice, thanks! I'll see what I'll do, but this has been very informative, thanks everyone!!

Paul

[stevie1556]

If the boards have got a UV resist coating on them, leave it on. It will melt under the head of the soldering iron, and it protects the copper tracks.

Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!

[9Lives]

If you were etching something large and complicated /delicate it might be worth it to tin. With small signal circuits with a couple of stages I don't see it very necessary. I've attempted to tin with solder and it just didn't work very well.. for me. However, like a previous poster said the liquid tin does work well and makes things neater.  One more thing to stroke the ocd complex lol

[madbean]

If you use some steel wool and clean the PCB with Acetone tinning is not necessary at all. Solder will flow very well. You should do this immediately before building. If you do it and leave it for a few days the copper will discolor and you'll have to repeat the cleaning.

If you want to prevent the underlying traces from oxidizing over long periods of time, Liquid Tin will help. Or, you can just run solder over the bare copper traces while soldering the PCB. This is pretty much what I do now.

Now, if you want to go the extra mile, after you do all the soldering wick or use a desoldering gun on the traces inbetween the pads. It will clean up any messy stuff and look spectacular.

[davent]

I've found with liquid tin that if you leave it for days you're really no better off in ease of soldering then if you've left the copper traces bare. I never finish a pcb in one go, could be days between sessions so the traces do oxidize and become diifficult to solder and then because the boards partially completed it's a pain to try to restore the unsoldered pads to an unoxidized state again. Best for me is polish the copper traces and spray the board with some kind of lacquer, waterbased, solvent based, Testors candy coloured transparent, whatever lacquer i have on hand and that will prevent any oxidation. Touch a hot soldering iron to the pad in the process of soldering and the lacquer vaporizes, solder flows. Done!




dave

[jimilee]

That's damn near 3d looking

[Stomptown]

Now, if you want to go the extra mile, after you do all the soldering wick or use a desoldering gun on the traces inbetween the pads. It will clean up any messy stuff and look spectacular.

I'll have to try this next time I etch a board. Are the wick and gun comparable or do you prefer one over the other?

[pedalman]

I prefer the wick, I have several sizes on the bench. DO NOT BUY CHEAP WICK budget wick seems to have less flux. desolder tool is cool to have. throw one on your order next time CSI seems to have the best deals on bench stuff. 63/37 is fun to play with, give that a try it has less of a liquid time, turns hard as soon as the iron pulls out. I prefer this on tricky joints and point to point

[9Lives]

Where did you get that clad?

[davent]

Where did you get that clad?

Hi Grant, That's more then likely just MG Chemicals presensitized pcb, came from the light proof envelope of odd sized leftover bits of various brands.  They all come in varying shades of ugly unlike regular copperclad that you can sometimes score in some cool colours as well as almost transparent. I paint the tops of the boards with acrylic paints (never black) to make them look better, pointless but makes me happy.  That ones painted with Pthalo Green transparent paint, stamped and then did a toner transfer to add some legending. Sometimes do a full silkscreen type print with toner transfer.




dave