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First build help

Started by hobogoblin, November 20, 2012, 08:39:23 PM

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hobogoblin

Hey,

I've never built a pedal before but have some experience in building arduino projects and the like. So I thought I'd give this a shot. I ordered three PCBs which arrived today and had a getting started question.



Basically, what do i do with those red lines? The impression I get is that I am supposed to solder a jump wire from one to the next, for instance from R3 to C8. If so how should I go about this? Solder both the jump wire and the resistor together where it's indicated and then the capacitor and the other end of the wire as indicated?

Thanks

jkokura

The red lines are connections already made on the PCB. You don't have to do anything with them, they're already taken care of internally on the PCB.

The only thing you need to do is install all the correct parts into the correct holes, and properly solder them in place.

Jacob
JMK Pedals - Custom Pedal Creations
JMK PCBs *New Website*
pedal company - youtube - facebook - Used Pedals

GermanCdn

If you've got the pcbs, you don't need to worry about the lines, they are internal to the pcb.  Just solder in the components to their respective holes and you're good to go.

Enjoy.
The only known cure in the world for GAS is death.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

Pvt. Parts

OMG even if he had done what he said It would still work and look so wrong :D

But I wonder, Is that image they send to the PCB manufacture? or It`s just a reference?
"Do what you can with what you have where you are" T. Roosevelt

jkokura

Quote from: Pvt. Parts on November 20, 2012, 08:52:10 PM
But I wonder, Is that image they send to the PCB manufacture? or It`s just a reference?

It is a reference output. You can submit .brd files to some manufacturers, but that's just an image of the PCB.

Jacob
JMK Pedals - Custom Pedal Creations
JMK PCBs *New Website*
pedal company - youtube - facebook - Used Pedals

hobogoblin

Awesome thanks.

Next question if you don't mind.  I have all the resistors and capacitors soldered in now. I'm starting on the pots, but I just noticed that the instructions http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Pastyface/docs/PastyFace.pdf don't really go into how to hook up the IN/G/OUT. On the Pasty Face there is one spot for IN one for Ground and one for OUT.

The Jack I have have 6 spots used to connect it to something:


I imagine I would need two of these jacks, one for IN and one for OUT. So that's twelve spots but one 2 soldering points on the PCB.  Also what do I do with the ground spot?

GermanCdn

#6
You've got plastic switching jacks there, so you need to solder the tip and the sleeve.  Brian has general wiring guidelines on the Project page, but I'll cut a few corners for you.

1) On the jacks you're using, the side that you need to solder on is the side that remains in contact with the 1/4" plug when it's inserted.  What I mean by that is this - when you slide the plug into the jack, you'll notice that the leafs of the jack will lift off the contacts on one side of the jack.  You DON"T want to solder to that side, as you'll get no signal.  

2) The tip is the lug furthest from the inlet point of the jack.  This goes to your IN or OUT points on your 3PDT, not to the pcb.  If it goes to the pcb directly, you'll never bypass.

3) The lug nearest the inlet point of the jack is the sleeve, or ground.  You'll run these to your grounding loop in the pedal.

Easiest way to wire up your switches is to use one of the 3PDT wiring boards available from various guys on the forum here.  My personal preference is Josh's (gtr2/1776 effects), but there's a bunch out there.
The only known cure in the world for GAS is death.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

GermanCdn

The only known cure in the world for GAS is death.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

hobogoblin

Hmm OK, well I guess I'll put this on hold until I order more parts.

Thanks, I was really curious how this would all fit together -- it wasn't making sense.

GermanCdn

You don't have to put it on hold, it's just that the off board wiring can get really messy, especially early on, and with the 3PDT boards you've got dedicated eyelets for all of your grounds, ins and outs, CLR (current limiting resistor, so you don't fry your LED on the first stomp), etc, and makes it much neater and more enjoyable. 

Just as an aside, you have ordered and built a Road Rage to go with the Pasty Face, correct?  The "normal" 9V wiring won't work with Pasty Face as you need a positive ground effect.  Unless you're only going with battery power, in which case you just have to reverse the leads.
The only known cure in the world for GAS is death.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

hobogoblin

Quote from: GermanCdn on November 20, 2012, 10:59:37 PMJust as an aside, you have ordered and built a Road Rage to go with the Pasty Face, correct?  The "normal" 9V wiring won't work with Pasty Face as you need a positive ground effect.  Unless you're only going with battery power, in which case you just have to reverse the leads.

... I have ordered one now. Pretty new to this, anything else you think I'll need?

TNblueshawk

I'm not sure what you have in total Hob so it's hard to say what else you might need per se. What I might do if I was you is go into the completed build section and look at some builds. See if you have everything in the builds such as DC jack, stomp swithc, jacks, pots etc...

There are many ways to wire a pedal. You have other wiring diagrams at guitarpcb.com (which I mainly use when I'm not using a fabbed 3PDT pad), BYOC wiring diagrams and others. Some make more sense than others depending on how your mind works.
John