Vero vs. perfboard - first-timer questions

[Bret608]

Hi all,

I'm planning to try vero or perfboard for the first time, specifically to set a germanium transistor tester per the circuit that Smallbear recommends. I have a couple of questions:

1) Are perfboard and vero the same thing? I'm thinking of just grabbing some with my next Mammoth order. Which on this link would be preferable: http://www.mammothelectronics.com/category-s/129.htm

2) For whichever of these would work better, how are the connections between components actually made? It looks like perfboard has little individual solder pads but not sure about vero. Is there a good basic tutorial out there in youtube-land?

Thanks for the guidance as always!

Bret

[pryde]

Vero has connected copper rows of holes on the board while perf has individual holes surrounded by their own pad of copper. They are very different.

Vero is a popular choice as you will find endless circuit layouts on Vero board. I have an ongoing library consisting of hundreds of Vero circuits for almost any effect out there from many great DIY websites

[JakeFuzz]

Perf board is just a board with an array of holes each with or without a solder pad depending on what type you buy. You can actually get very tight layouts with perfboard but it takes a lot of laying out. It is also a PITA to wire up. You make traces by flowing solder from one pad to another; I actually use bare wire to help keep the solder on the path and to tie resistor legs to.




Vero is like perfboard except that it has parallel strips of electrically connected holes. This is nice becasue you dont have to make the majority of the traces like perf board; you can just use the copper strips to make them for you. This involves cutting tracks and wiring jumpers but I generally find that Vero is cleaner than perfboard. Additionally there is an abundance of Vero layouts for just about any circuit out there.

[GermanCdn]

Hey Bret, no they're not the same thing.  Perfboard has individual eyelet connectors which are not connected to any others, so all wiring is point to point for the components.  Vero has copper strips running horizontally across the holes connecting all the ponts in the line, and you cut/drill out breaks in the line to suit the circuit.

My personal preference is veroboard, a lot less work and there are hundreds of schemes out there to build.  Both of them are a pain to trouble shoot, though.

[GermanCdn]

Wow, three simultaneous posts, impressive.

[Bret608]

Wow, that was quick! 

Vero it is, then! I did find a vero layout for a GE tranny tester, but it doesn't look to be exactly the same circuit as from the SB "FAQ for fuzz face fanatics." Anyone here done a layout for that? My apologies if I've already asked about this in the past couple of days!

[pryde]

Here's one that you can build with either a fixed resistor or a trim pot. works fine

[Bret608]

Thanks! I had found this too, and if it's the R.G. Keen circuit like I think it is, then this should do me just as well as the Smallbear version.

One question...would there be any kind of cuts or drilling to do on the underside of the vero? Or would I just solder everything in as arranged here and that would already take care of the connections?

[pryde]

The red circles designate that the copper track has to be cut at that point. An easy way to do this is take a 1/4' drill bit BY HAND and give it a few twists to cut the track.

Also note the black lines on the lower version (with the trim pot). Those are simply jumpers that must be soldered to connect the copper tracks. For the jumpers just use your clipped component leads.

Remember the vero layouts show the holes/tracks as if they are transparent looking from the top side of the board. Make sure you cut the right tracks.

Useful tip: after using the drill bit to cut the indicated tracks and soldering in jumpers, test the board with your continuity meter on the DMM before installing your resistors, caps, etc.

[hoodoo]

Hi mate, i think your question has been answered above, but i thought that this may be of interest to you.
Tagboard effects is a site i came across with heaps of layouts for vero and great tutorials for noobs like myself. I've built a couple of vero builds now and i love it. The main man Mark is very helpful and quick to answer any queries i've had,
All the best,
Matt.

[Bret608]

Thanks Matt! Tagboard effects is really cool so far, so I appreciate your pointing me in that direction...I now realize the tester that pryde posted is from there. Also, I am already drooling over their Harmonic Percolator layout.

[RockeTron25]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to Vero board, I'm just wondering if I can cut a small section off without affecting the rest of the board, and is it safe to use a small saw blade to cut the vero? Can I use scissors? what is the better method?
I only want a small section. Will this have an effect on the rest of the board?

[alanp]

I've used a steel ruler and a Stanley knife to deeply score vero on both sides, and then snap it along the score line. Works well enough.

[pedalman]

score and snap works well

[Mr. L]

Make sure you get a good deep score, the first time I did it I did not go deep enough and my board broke In a random jagged line.  Lesson learned, I now score both sides before I break it.  I also found that if you score it well enough one snip with wire cutters one one side will cause it to break down the score line. You can then clean up the edges on a sander if that matters to you. I use my bench disc sander.