Making labels stick

[Guybrush]

Hey hey.

I've been experimenting with different labels to print pedal graphics on to with varying degrees of success.  I have been using glossy, self adhesive printer labels.  The main problem I am having is making the labels stick firmly to the metal enclosure.  The edges never seem to want to stay flush to the metal.  I can always get a finger nail underneath and pull the label off.  I've spayed the label with a few coats of clear coat (from a rattle can) but there's still a lip that can be pulled at which obviously isn't ideal when I'm no doubt going to be catching the pedal with my foot once it's on my board.

Just wondering if anyone had any tips to make them stick?  I'm eventually going to (hopefully) get a powder coat gun.  Will a clear coat from this work better than a rattle can?

Thanks.

[murdog47]

I've had the same problem.  I use a plastic toothpick and drip a tiny bit of thin super glue under the edges and push and hold down (not gluing your finger to the sticker or enclosure is the trick so don't use a lot). After that a rattle can of clear does the trick. 

[snmavronis]

I messed up when I posted about Metalphoto the other day. That is not the right stuff. There still is ID-Mark listed under other products on New Horizons: ID-Mark (Photopolymer Resist Coated Aluminum and Polyester) - UV and water etched metal panels with adhesive backing. You can request free samples and give it a try.

http://www.horizonsisg.com/idmark.html





ID-Mark Fast Facts

Material: Photopolymer Resist Coated Aluminum and Polyester Sheets with Adhesive Backing

- Finishes: 14 Color Combinations
- Sizes: 10" x 12", 12" x 20
- Thicknesses: 0.006", 0.007", 0.014", 0.025"
- Applications: Signs, Labels, Decals, Nameplates, Plaques and Awards, Equipment Tags, Prototypes, Panel Fronts
- Performance Characteristics: For Outdoor Use (if protected), Resistant to Chemicals

[Guybrush]

Thanks for the tips!

The ID-Mark stuff looks good but not sure how I'd get access to a UV light.  I'll deffo look into it though!

Thanks again!

[Willybomb]

I've had a lot of sucess (and a lot of do-overs) with t-shirt transfers.  If you don't get any issues between the clear coat and the transfer paper you can get great results.  I think the trick is to go very, very, very lightly on the clear coat even though the temptation is to go hard because the transer will soak up a lot of clear before it starts looking glassy and smooth.

http://www.kitrae.net/music/Custom_Pedal_Graphics.html

Here's the two pedals I've done with this method.  I actually cut back the clear on the krankosaurus with some wet/dry and used a polishing compound to brink up the shine and the effort was really worth it.  The enclosure is so smooth it makes the transfer look like it's part of the pedal.  Definitely recommend doing that.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=4944.0

FWIW I don't know how the transfer would go onto bare metal.  When you iron it onto a relatively freshly painted (not baked) enclosure the paint softens up a bit and I think that helps to get the transfer to stick.  The LA was done around a year ago and hasn't had any issues with the transfer lifting.

[Guybrush]

Thank you for the advice Willybomb.  I actually came across your (extremely helpful) website a while back and was going to give the t-shirt method a try.  I hadn't realised you were on here too.  Good stuff!

Please could you link to the transfers you use? Your pedals look fantastic so they obviously work well.

Also, could you expand on the polishing compound method a bit?  I just did an eBay search and there's so many different types I don't know where to start.

Thanks again!

[Willybomb]

I'd like to claim that website, but it's not mine!!  I just followed the tutorial for both the LA and Kranky.

The basic format for polishing up is:
- Use a wet/dry sandpaper (wet) to get rid of the orangepeel and/or any other imperfections in the clearcoat.  With the Krankosaurus, I didn't need to go hard with it, just going in one direction in long strokes across the enclosure, possibly because the clear was still relatively soft.
- Once you're happy with that (it may be a bit cloudy after sanding) rub the polishing compound in following the directions on the bottle/tin.  I currently just use an automotive polish called Meguiar's Deep Crystal Wetlook cleaner wax, but I think I've used Kitten in the past too.

That's about it for that side of it.  It's pretty much how I do my guitars too - prime, paint, clearcoat (x20 or so of the clear!), sand, polish.

The transfer paper itself...  I just get whatever's available for dark t-shirts.  I'm pretty certain this was the last lot I used.

http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Office-Supplies/Paper/Photo-Paper/Speciality-Photo-Paper/AUOWDTRT

[Guybrush]

Ha ha.  I don't know why I assumed that it was your website!

Thanks for the tips.  I'll definitely give them a go.

Is this the polish you use? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00078XL2O/ref=asc_df_B00078XL2O8433575?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B00078XL2O

Lastly:  What grade of wet and dry do you use?  And (this is most certainly a dumb question) how and why do you use it wet?  Just run the sand paper under the tap?

Sorry for all the questions!

Edit: On your Krankosaurus is it one single transfer or are the knob labels all separate pieces cut out?

[Willybomb]

Is this the stuff?

Same brand, but the stuff I use (read that as:  What I happened to buy from the shop on the salesman's recomendation - don't start thinking I actually know anything) is the cleaner wax:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Car-Cleaner-Liquid-Wax/dp/B0002NYE5M

I wouldn't get too anal about it, I think any auto polishing compound will do the job once the clear has been cut.

Lastly:  What grade of wet and dry do you use?  And (this is most certainly a dumb question) how and why do you use it wet?  Just run the sand paper under the tap?

I used the higest grade I had around the house, might have been around 1200-1800 or something.  If you want a high gloss, you need to get it pretty much scratch free.

And yep, for a small job like this I was just wandering around the house with a small folded square of the paper more or less scraping the enclosure and running it under a tap every now and again (but I kept the top pretty wet too).  If I was doing a guitar I'd sit down outside with a sanding block and bucket of water.  From memory the clear was dry but still pretty soft - it would have been easy to put a fingerprint n the finish with a bit of pressure.

Why do I use it wet?  Seems to work better and it keeps the paint dust out of the way ad stops it from clogging up the paper... but mostly because it seems to work better.

: On your Krankosaurus is it one single transfer or are the knob labels all separate pieces cut out?

Single transfer covering the whole top from edge to edge.  Really makes it look pretty special, almost screenprinted, especially with the clear on top.

On the Little Angel, there's a single transfer on the top from edge to edge, but the "Chorus" on the side that you can see in the photo is a separate one, where I cut out around the word and ironed that on.  It's a little lopsided actually.

[Guybrush]

 Thanks for the info Willybomb. It's enormously appreciated. So does the transfer just 'miss out'  the parts where there is no design so you can see the paint through it?

[Willybomb]

No, the dark t-shirt transfers are a base white color, so if you want to see the enclosure's color underneath you have to fake it.  The krankosaurus transfer was black on top of the white, with the other details on top of that, and the LA was blue.

[DutchMF]

I messed up when I posted about Metalphoto the other day. That is not the right stuff. There still is ID-Mark listed under other products on New Horizons: ID-Mark (Photopolymer Resist Coated Aluminum and Polyester) - UV and water etched metal panels with adhesive backing. You can request free samples and give it a try.

Anybody have an idea about the price of this stuff? Seems like something I would like a lot!

Paul

[Guybrush]

No, the dark t-shirt transfers are a base white color, so if you want to see the enclosure's color underneath you have to fake it.  The krankosaurus transfer was black on top of the white, with the other details on top of that, and the LA was blue.

Wonderful.  Thanks for all your help!

[jubal81]

I can't find a link, but in the 988-page pictures thread at DIY, someone used the MG Chemicals photoresist spray on the enclosure and it turned out really, really nice. IIRC, he said it was his first etch and it looked as pro as any I've ever seen - including Moollon.

[snmavronis]

I messed up when I posted about Metalphoto the other day. That is not the right stuff. There still is ID-Mark listed under other products on New Horizons: ID-Mark (Photopolymer Resist Coated Aluminum and Polyester) - UV and water etched metal panels with adhesive backing. You can request free samples and give it a try.

Anybody have an idea about the price of this stuff? Seems like something I would like a lot!

Paul

You can ask on the website for free ID-Mark samples which is enough to make several pedals. See if you can get all aluminum samples, or you may get a mix of aluminum and plastic sheets. Here's 2 separate combo pics (outside/inside) of what I etched for my DIY project builds with my samples to get an idea of the result quality: