How do you drill pcbs?

[djaaz]

I have been trying to drill my first etched pcbs.

I found  a 0,8mm drill bit that i use in a cordless drill driver. I broke two drill bit already and it's taking an awful lot of time.

I bought a multi chuck to use with my dremel but it's not compatible. Before i go and buy a "real" dremel, i would like to know if there is a cheaper alternative.

How do you guys do it?

[madbean]

You can do it well or you can do it cheaply...that's pretty much the choice. Even the less expensive Dremels will be easier to do hand-held than a cordless drill. The reason your bits are breaking is because they have almost no tolerance to lateral force when they are spinning, which a hand held drill has plenty of.

[djaaz]

Thanks Brian,
So Dremel is the way to go?
I bought the dremel drill press, was it a good idea or am i better off by hand?

[djaaz]

I meant, Dremel is the way to go to do it well?
I don't mind putting a few more bucks in it if that is going to do the trick.

[madbean]

If it's something you think you will be doing often, then yeah. I use a Dremel and the drill press attachment. I've probably drilled 4000 boards with it, lol. I actually burned out the motor on my first Dremel from using it so much.

Plus, carbide bits. Don't use HSS bits---carbide last 50x longer if you are careful when drilling.

http://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/10wirsizpac8.html

10 new #67 bits cost $15 and will last quite a while. I use those and #60 for larger holes like for PCB mounted pots.

[djaaz]

Thanks Brian.

Actually, i already have a dremel like that i am quite happy with.
It looks like you don't need to use the dremel multi chuck with those?

[madbean]

You don't have to. It's a bit easier to change bits fast if you do, though.

[9Lives]

I just started etching myself and have been EXTREMELY 1. Successful or 2. Lucky.. I've gotten my etched boards to work first time each time and done like 10 or 11.. I don't have such luck with purchased boards :/. Anywho I use a big drill press with a #1 center drill with 3/64 tip (a lil on the big side) and the chase it with #67 drill. The center drill is under rated. It's designed to piolet small holes on slick surfaces. It's got a tiny nipple on the end that works VERY well. Then you can run back through with #67 with EASE.

[add4]

i'm using a dremel, and my hands and i have no problem with drilling accuracy so far.
the main problem i have is that the pads (mad bean library) are really thin after i drilled them.
i also notice that the solder is much harder to put on a handmade board than on manufactured pcbs. it sticks to the iron, the leg of the component, and the traces, but it won't go nicely around the pad as it does in manufactured pcbs.
my bean projects are getting neat as i practice, but my handmade board look like they've been soldered but a blind 5 years old boy, drunk.

[GermanCdn]

i'm using a dremel, and my hands and i have no problem with drilling accuracy so far.
the main problem i have is that the pads (mad bean library) are really thin after i drilled them.
i also notice that the solder is much harder to put on a handmade board than on manufactured pcbs. it sticks to the iron, the leg of the component, and the traces, but it won't go nicely around the pad as it does in manufactured pcbs.
my bean projects are getting neat as i practice, but my handmade board look like they've been soldered but a blind 5 years old boy, drunk.

If you're finding that you're having problems soldering on etched boards, try changing the tips on soldering iron a bit more often.  I had the same problems as you, I could solder up 20 manufactured boards with a single tip and they would all look pretty, but solder up a couple of vero boards or etched boards with the same tip and it gets ugly a lot faster.  I use new (or nearly new) tips now for all of my etched/vero board projects, and change out the tips for old ones for manufactured board builds, and have better results to show for it.  YMMV though.

Blind 5 year old, drunk.  Love that line

[add4]

i had no idea the tip can play a role in that ..
i notice that after drilling, most of my pads have a very very thin copper line so the solder doesn't stick on it. i should increase the tolerances for home etching i think. i started doing manufactured boards and now my routes and pads are smaller.. apparently too small for home etching.

Thanks for the support with the 5 year old thing.. not many people find that funny unfortunately

[alanp]

I found I had to sand back the tip on my iron, as it was a bit blackened. 40W is probably pushing my luck, though.

[madbean]

Are you polishing and cleaning the PCB well enough before soldering? That makes a big difference. You need to scratch up the copper with some steel wool or similar then thoroughly clean it with Acetone. If you do this there the solder will adhere very easily with proper heat.

[add4]

Wow ... i should do that?
i had no idea! i'm cleaning the toner with acetone and then covering it with a layer or clear varnish, that's all
steel wool you say? i'll try that on the next one!

[madbean]

It makes all the difference in the world. I use some 3M stuff that is fine like steel wool but it is more of a sanding pad, not little fibers. Steel wool is fine, but it irritates the skin and it flakes off. Steel wool loves to travel through the room and attach itself to the poles of single coil pickups, too.

Anyway, polish the PCB by going back and forth horizontally and vertically a few times. Then do a quick angled crosshatch polish. The traces will brighten up and you will see lots of tiny parallel scratches on the surface. This is what makes the solder adhere easily. After polishing, wipe down with Acetone. Press down kinda hard with the cleaning cloth and you will see all that junk come right off.

Do this, and your solder will adhere just as easily as the pads of a fabbed board and will come out clean as you could ever want.