Bought my board. Where do I go from here?

[monkeyssj1]

Awesome!! I'm at work so i'm just glancing at this for a second, but when I get home I'm going to look at this in detail and try to absorb it haha, and then purchase these parts. I'm so stoked to make a pedal that sounds great .. kinda feel the way I did when I got my first guitar . Thank you guys again for all the help. I'm really gracious the pedal modding community is so helpful and encouraging.

[monkeyssj1]

Okay so here's my next question. I'm at the point of ordering parts. I was going to buy them from small bear but I'm afraid of receiving the parts without any part names on them. I'm thinking of getting the parts that I need for the DS-1 project I want to do and the Green Bean from Mouser (or some other place recommended), but I wanted to know what the difference is between all these parts? for example I'll type in .47uf into the search and a billion results show up for the capacitors. small bear gave me a SKU number for a Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-V (.047 mf.), but I was wondering does it matter if I get a different kind/how do I know what is okay? this is the list for the DS-1 mod I want to do btw.

C1, C10, C11----0.047mF SKU 1101B
C2----0.68mF SKU 1105
C3, C5----0.068mF SKU 1150
C4----470pF SKU 1101
C8----0.47mF SKU 1105
C9----0.47mF
C12, C13----0.1mF 1101B
C14----1mF NP (non-polarized) SKU 1106
47pF cap across the clipping diodes. SKU 1311

R13---2.7K
R39---20K
R16----1.5K (could wire a 2K or 5K pot here for a mid control)
R11---33K (lowers gain)(stock is 100K)
R9----1K (lowers gain, lower value = more gain)(stock is 22ohms)
R17---6.1K

D4---3mm Water Clear High Brightness Red LED SKU 2304

in series with 20K resistor, 1N270 SKU 2201

Select using a DPDT (on-on) SKU 0220

You can add another diode in series with either D4 or D5 for asymmetrical clipping. Its an interesting little addition try it

R35---2.2K
5mm Water Clear High Brightness Blue LED (this is a new check LED) SKU 2302

it was taken from the "Ultimate DS-1" mod thread in a google search


P.S. was anybody able to figure out what to do with R9 on the green bean mod?

[ckim715]

I personally order all my component parts (resistors, capacitors, diodes, etc.) from Mouser. They are a bit hard to order from, as their layout can be daunting, but I find their shipping times and overall costs to be cheaper than Small Bear. Also, the components all come separated in their own little baggies and are clearly marked. Very convenient.

[monkeyssj1]

Okay how should I decipher which may be the right type of part?? like .47uf provides several thousand different results .. scary ..

[saxoftenest]

As a noob, you may want to hold off on Mouser. It's hard enough getting all the parts in the right place the first time around, and if you're wondering if it even IS correct in the first place... hmm.

I would recommend going through Mammoth Electronics. Pedal-specific like Small Bear, but all parts labeled clearly like Mouser.

One thing to note about Mammoth: caps and resistors are listed in "Passives".

[monkeyssj1]

so i finally ordered my parts for the DS-1 mod. one of the parts off mouser was on back order.. a 6.1k resistor. i was wondering is it a big deal if i use a 6.04 resistor instead?

[TNblueshawk]

so i finally ordered my parts for the DS-1 mod. one of the parts off mouser was on back order.. a 6.1k resistor. i was wondering is it a big deal if i use a 6.04 resistor instead?

6.04 should be fine but where did you find one of those?

You can always measure with the DMM too. You can also teepee resistors so if you can find 2 values that add up to 6.1...not likely...but this works when dealing with larger numbers many times.

For a teepee you just twist 2 wires together (butt up two ends) solder, and clip off the excess.

[DuctTapeRiot]

Sounds like you already got your order in, but there is a mouser ordering tutorial post here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2970.0 that has a lot of known good part numbers.  The biggest risks for a new person ordering from Mouser, at least from my perspective are:
- Capacitor sizes and voltage ratings.  If not careful you could wind up with fist or thumb sized caps.
- Ordering SMD parts instead of through hole. (SMD are tiny surface mount parts that are quite hard to solder by hand.

Keep in mind too that Mouser is not cheaper for everything.  Cerntainly resistors, caps, and a lot of transistors, ICs etc.  (and IC sockets) are cheaper there, but stuff like DC jacks, 1/4in jacks, enclosures, switches, seem to be cheaper at Mammoth or SB.  The trick, especially for me as someone not in the US, is balancing whether the extra cost for somethings on mouser is enought to offset extra shipping costs for somewhere else.

[monkeyssj1]

yea i already made an error in getting a couple resistors that aren't through hole. Luckily all this stuff isn't TOO expensive.. mostly shipping being the primary cost. i'm waiting on my soldering station to come in and then I'm gonna try to practice some solders/order the correct parts

[monkeyssj1]

hey guys, so i'm soldering all my components on the board. I'm about to solder the JRC4558D to the board. There's a circle on one end of it. Is that the end that goes into the square hole in the greenbean pcb? there isn't a little scoop that reflects the orientation.

[TNblueshawk]

I highly recommend to use a socket on all IC's for several reasons. They are sensitive to heat and should you ever have to replace it you don't even want to think about try to desolder that thing.

The dot signifies pin one on the IC.

[monkeyssj1]

yea after looking at other users' pictures of their fabricated green beans, i realized this problem. i already soldered it on but i have a bunch of spares so i'm going to desolder it and chuck it. the only part now that is really intimidating me is now at this point is wiring. In soldering the wires to the switches for bright/fat (which have two holes on the pcb) do I solder two wires to connect together the three points on the on/on switch? the other thing i was confused about was star grounding. I tried looking up the concept but don't really understand how to do it. my casing is coming in the mail but won't be here for a few more days i believe.

P.S. thanks again everyone for the help thus far. steep learning curve from ground zero but i'm really beginning to understand a lot of the process. it feels like i have a kid who's about to take the winning shot at a basketball game... if this thing works after all is said and done, i'm going to shit myself.

[Om_Audio]

LOL- 

...if this thing works after all is said and done, i'm going to shit myself.

[TNblueshawk]

Monkey I don't know this circuit but have you reviewed some of Bean's wiring diagrams? I think that will help you on the star grounding. I'm sitting in the waiting room of an ER so I can't really check out the Green Bean circuit loile I need to in order to know how the switch is wired.

[monkeyssj1]

Oh man, I hope everything is all right :\


I'm going to check the wiring diagram again later today after i get off work. I may have read the explanations too fast on google, but I couldn't really understand the concept of how to actually do it. Excuse me if I missed something obvious