Sparkplug Sanity Check Qs

[jessenator]

My brain is playing tricks on me and wanting to rather be safe and ask a dumb question than sorry, I'd like to double check:

The solid/thick line in the PCB drawing is the mounting tab (that needs to be clipped off), correct?

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[jimilee]

I always thought that fab was also a heat sync, but yes you are correct. You can check the pinout of the component as well.


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[jessenator]

Thanks. Haven't gotten much sleep so my brain is in "what does the picture say" mode

Some FET heatsinks are nuts! Here's the output board from my gbe-250 bass head. The big ol ones have screw holes right through them.

[jimilee]

Thanks. Haven't gotten much sleep so my brain is in "what does the picture say" mode

Some FET heatsinks are nuts! Here's the output board from my gbe-250 bass head. The big ol ones have screw holes right through them.

Wow, that thing must put off some serious heat.


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[jessenator]

Wow, that thing must put off some serious heat.

During a show, cranked, definitely. The chassis has a fan!

[jimilee]

Wow, that thing must put off some serious heat.

During a show, cranked, definitely. The chassis has a fan!

I'm sure. I used to run a bass stack, I can only imagine the heat. I cracked a circuit board one time. Well twice, really. Finally had to replace it.


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[jessenator]

Alright, back for more sanity checking... I haven't done an older MBP board in a very long time, and I want to make sure I do it right—the documentation doesn't have anything from the time, so I'm going off newer MBP wiring diagrams and other contemporary projects for reference.

So the traditional wiring, directly to the switch, looks like this, correct?




So if I was to use a switch PCB, would it look something more like this? just leaving the "L" pad as-is, because voltage is already supplied to the LED, and engaging the effect would be connecting the anode to ground, based on the traces of that particular bypass board?