Jewel Lens for enclosures…

[greysun]

Hey y'all!

Currently in the throes of Covid (mild so far, fingers crossed to stay that way) so my mind is wandering a bit... which means I had an idea...

For the madbean projects I did when we were still accounting for 9v batteries (so the foot switch isn't at the bottom), I'm hitting switches and knobs too much. But I also don't want to be wasteful or figure out how to get the same powdercoat colors (which aren't available anymore). Then I looked at my amp and said "JEWEL LENS!"

https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/amps/components-and-parts/lights-and-power/jewel-lens

If I moved the foot switch down, and replaced the current foot switch hole with a jewel lens, 1) is that a bad idea, 2) if not, how would an LED be mounted inside?



I suppose I could just not put anything in the jewel lens and it would be decorative, but that's no fun!

Anyone have thoughts? Or even different ideas?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Possibly use a 10mm LED?

What would you do with the existing LED?

[greysun]

Possibly use a 10mm LED?

What would you do with the existing LED?

I thought of a larger LED, but it felt a bit comical given that I already made the pedals look like toys (intentionally). The jewel lens felt better or more interesting for some reason - maybe it's the Advil, LOL... My buddy with a cricut is gonna help me get some labels... which will probably fall off, but that's a later problem, hehe...

I did some internet sleuthing, and others have done it or tried it, but I didn't know if anyone else has tried to figure it out here in this specific scenario.

I would probably just add another LED to sit under the jewel lens and call it a day (aka, 2 LEDs). maybe overkill, but we'll see.

The toggle switches on these pedals are on/off, so if I can figure it out, might be able to make the current LEDs "status lights" for the switch... feels like a lot of work, and would probably need 3pdt on/on toggles which take up a lot of space.

I could swap the toggle and LED, but not sure the toggle would fit between the jacks - and then I might hit the toggle with my foot. nothing but problems from me today... ;-)

I'll give it a bit more thought...

[jwin615]

If you hardwired the footswitches, To switch LEDs, you'd just need another CLR and you can switch the ground with the other side of the switch.

Another fun thing would be to add a 555 and have the multiple LEDs blink when the pedal is engaged, lending more to the toy aesthetic. Use a bicolor and switch it for the new one if you want to get real fancy.
Or add a (dummy) arcade button.
Or do both with a RGB button like these
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPzVaH8

I guess you could wire the button as a kill switch if you're a bend over and fiddle with the delay feedback in the outro kind of player.
Get well soon.

[greysun]

If you hardwired the footswitches, To switch LEDs, you'd just need another CLR and you can switch the ground with the other side of the switch.

Another fun thing would be to add a 555 and have the multiple LEDs blink when the pedal is engaged, lending more to the toy aesthetic. Use a bicolor and switch it for the new one if you want to get real fancy.
Or add a (dummy) arcade button.
Or do both with a RGB button like these
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPzVaH8

I guess you could wire the button as a kill switch if you're a bend over and fiddle with the delay feedback in the outro kind of player.
Get well soon.

Okay... okay...

okay...

Yes.

Looking into it now!

[jwin615]

If looking into the arcade button, these are pretty new(haven't used them) but their low profile may be more accommodating.

Momentary Self Reset Waterproof Metal Push Button Switch with Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqHeeVc

If you look around, some sellers have some with a choice of cutout as opposed to blank or IO.

[greysun]

If looking into the arcade button, these are pretty new(haven't used them) but their low profile may be more accommodating.

Momentary Self Reset Waterproof Metal Push Button Switch with Wire
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqHeeVc

If you look around, some sellers have some with a choice of cutout as opposed to blank or IO.

I'm not sure I'll go down the arcade button route, but the timer idea got me thinking... I have a bunch of RGB LEDs that I'm not going to use, and then I found this: http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/traffic-lights.html

I'll have space in this area of the enclosure, so I'd just go 9v right to the power supply and ground to the foot switch (I think that would work and not break anything) - get a jewel lens, glue a same-size lug to a PCB that has the circuit and LED on it, screw it in at the bottom and I've got a tri-colored blinker of red/green/blue. when the pedal is on!

... Right? lol

[jwin615]

Should work.
I think most traffic light circuits use dual 555s.
You could use this one with 1 555 and a common cathode bicolor led
https://www.circuits-diy.com/bi-color-led-driver-circuit-using-555-timer/

I would advise to add a decoupling cap of 100uf or so to vcc pin on any 555 used

[jhaneyzz]

I do this kinda thing when I accidentally drill too many holes in an enclosure (don't ask)

[davent]

If all you really want to do is fill/hide the hole, Mouser and others sell very low profile black nylon plugs in various diameters just for that purpose, inexpensive and really in no way detract from the look of a project.

[jimilee]

Oh well, that's cool. I've been using the JB Weld metal filler.


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[greysun]

Oh well, that's cool. I've been using the JB Weld metal filler.


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I've been meaning to ask if anyone's drilled into JB weld again after it cures on an enclosure, and if there's any special way to do it. Any experience, Jimilee?

@jhaneyzz and @davent - thank you, those will be great for later pedals (I really like that mesh idea!), but I'm WAY too deep on the jewel lens path - got them earlier this week and just trying to figure out the 555 timers and LEDs.

Can't wait to try one out... I'll be posting pics for sure. :-)

[jimilee]

Oh well, that's cool. I've been using the JB Weld metal filler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been meaning to ask if anyone's drilled into JB weld again after it cures on an enclosure, and if there's any special way to do it. Any experience, Jimilee?

@jhaneyzz and @davent - thank you, those will be great for later pedals (I really like that mesh idea!), but I'm WAY too deep on the jewel lens path - got them earlier this week and just trying to figure out the 555 timers and LEDs.

Can't wait to try one out... I'll be posting pics for sure. :-)

After it cures, it's really solid. I've drilled into it, other times, I've relocated the hole entirely.  Sand it down, repaint it, it's good to go.


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[davent]

Should you need them, a couple Mouser part numbers of packages here, won't be the right size but gets you started in the right spot on the Mouser website. Two manufacturers, Heyco and Eagle plastic.

Heyco; 836-2633
Eagle;  561-M2617

[jessenator]

A second to the JB Weld. Also, if you don't care about re-drilling, some Bondo. A little bit easier to sand/shape, IME, but not as durable.