Water Slide / Laser Printer

[madbean]

What are people using for laser printed water slide decals these days? It's been a long time since I used those for artwork. Or, any particular alternative that you use and can recommend.

[mauman]

I've had great results with this source for laser waterslide stock, both clear and white opaque: https://www.blinggasm.com/Blinggasm%C2%AE-Waterslide-Decal-Paper-10-Sheets_p_19.html  The pic below is laser printing on a white waterslide, over a white enclosure.

I use it with a Brother HL-L8360 color laser printer, the drum temp tops out at 390 degrees F which is OK for this paper.  Some other brands of waterslide will wrinkle or stick at that temp. You can also cure the Blinggasm waterslide in an oven to over 300 degrees after application to ensure good adhesion (assuming it's going down over a powder coat finish, spray painted enclosures can only handle 200 degrees or so.) 

[jimilee]

HP Color Laser Jet Pro. Wireless because I use a laptop and when I do use my desktop, it's in my office where I do not have my printer.


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[harryklippton]

If you can do waterslide, you can do no film. I highly recommend it, and @thewintersoldier made a great tutorial here: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32281.0

[zombie_rock123]

I use the normal Sunnyscopa laser decal paper for the moment, until I buy a toaster oven to try the no film stuff.

[Bio77]

I had a Xerox(Dell) laser printer that was awesome until it crapped out.  Now I have a Brother, which I like a lot less, but it works.  Be sure to check on the availability of knock off toner for any printer you are considering.  The difference in price for name brand vs knock off is ~5X.  Unlike inkjet printers, there really isn't a lot of technology development going into toner cartridges so you can confidently use the knock offs.  One caveat is that not all of the knock off brands are equal.  I had trouble with some brands, now I stick to the LINKYO brand, which I found recommended in a reddit post. 

Depending on your other needs for the printer and the number of projects you are planning, you might also consider the Tayda UV service.  Results are amazing and it's not very expensive.  I still do a lot of water slide though, because a UV print takes more planning.  You can't decide to start a project on Friday and have a pedal Saturday. 

For waterslide, no-film is better because you won't need to clear coat/epoxy after application.  They seem to age better, too, IMO. Chris made two great demos for no-film and UV printing.

[madbean]

Here are my first attempts at the no-film method. Overall, I'd say I'm not a fan of this one. I had problems with getting good adhesion even with proper pre-heating, oven baking, etc. Maybe with some more practice I can produce better results though. The parts that did transfer seem pretty robust.

[jimilee]

That looks pretty good. I've got the stuff, but no heating toaster oven stuff. I've been debating if I want to go with it, or just give the stuff away.


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[Willybomb]

I've got the stuff, but no heating toaster oven stuff. I've been debating if I want to go with it, or just give the stuff away.

I picked up a toaster oven at a garage sale for $5, specifically for baking enclosures, I reckon you can find one there or at an op shop for next to nothing.  Only did it a couple of times, wasn't convinced by the process.

[Derpinador]

matter of which country you live in, think can get 1 in the US at most wally-worlds for like $20 ish. I also haven't checked that aisle for some time but even as high as 30 for a 'hobby' use only is cheap.