two circuits in one enclosure; one bypass switch for both and sub bypass 4 other

[Beedoola]

So I have a 1776 RDD reverb and an EHX LPB-1 in a single enclosure.

3pdt switch I want to be the main bypass. There is also a 4pdt switch in there that I'm using to lift a resistor on the RDD and also bringing the LPB-1 into the path. My issue is I used the two circuits in one enclosure wiring and all that does is bring each circuit in and out individually.

What I need is for the 3dpt to bypass everything and the 4pdt is used to toggle between two channels basically: standard and fully wet (which has the LPB1 in the chain). Signal path order is RDD>LPB-1

How do I do this? Anyone got a diagram they could link?

[jimilee]

Take the out of the first circuit and go into the in of the second circuit, instead of the 3pdt,  and back to the 3pdt from the out of the second circuit.


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[Beedoola]

Thanks Jimmy but what that does is it leaves the LPB-1 in the signal all the time.

I need to have the LPB-1 brought into the signal path with the second footswitch.

[jimilee]

Thanks Jimmy but what that does is it leaves the LPB-1 in the signal all the time.

I need to have the LPB-1 brought into the signal path with the second footswitch.

Oh right, I read that wrong. I'm still not completely clear in what you do want to do.  I'm trying to wrap my head around it, but something's missing.


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[Beedoola]

I actually figured it out!

Basically the reverb output goes to the 4pdt to a center row lug. LPB-1 input on one side and on the other a bridge to the next row lug.

Next row over has the center lug going to the 3PDT output. LPB-1 output on one side and on the other is the other bridge from
The previous row.

So either way the 3PDT is always bypassing the whole thing and the 4pdt brings the lpb-1 in and out (with 4th row of lugs lifting the resistor on the reverb for 100% wet)

Hope that makes sense. If not  but it's working!

[Derpinador]

I want to see a picture of this. I have Mugshot not in box yet, a cupcake that does NOT want to play with 1590A's( I keep having the wires to the pot snap at the solder, either end, from cramming it in><) and a 1590BB from a project that actually went in to a 125b... if you can't tell, I want the compressor(cake) almost always on and flip the mug's boost in for when I have signal drags/volume drops.

[mauman]

This should do it.  The OP used a 4PDT for the Side 2 switch, otherwise it should work the same.