VFE Bumblebee - no swell

[zachlovescoffee]

Stupid question but basically I just drop the components in, add in the jumper wires and solder stuff together on the front and back of the board and it'll work?
I'm looking at using the first image. What are the little red squares indicating? My breakout board has A-J and 1-17 matrix [5x17, 5x17]. On the back each column [a-e and f-j] of 5 is connected together [a~b~c~d~e] break [f~g~h~I~j].

So for example, DMM- and ground (assuming this is black terminal from 9v) are connect at the 10k resistor via a jump? And that resistor is connect via a jumper to 4u7 cap, which is connected to the 10k behind it via a jump and then to the IC? A real life picture of how one of these is wired up would be helpful but there are scant resources online surprisingly.

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/jfet-matcher.html

[jimilee]

Yessir, that's how it's supposed to work.

[Aentons]

Stupid question but basically I just drop the components in, add in the jumper wires and solder stuff together on the front and back of the board and it'll work?
I'm looking at using the first image. What are the little red squares indicating? My breakout board has A-J and 1-17 matrix [5x17, 5x17]. On the back each column [a-e and f-j] of 5 is connected together [a~b~c~d~e] break [f~g~h~I~j].

So for example, DMM- and ground (assuming this is black terminal from 9v) are connect at the 10k resistor via a jump? And that resistor is connect via a jumper to 4u7 cap, which is connected to the 10k behind it via a jump and then to the IC? A real life picture of how one of these is wired up would be helpful but there are scant resources online surprisingly.

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/jfet-matcher.html

What you have is a solderable breadboard, not veroboard. With veroboard, the rows are a long copper trace that you have to cut if you want to separate components. The red boxes in the diagram are the cuts you would need to make. Your breadboard rows are not connected like that, and not even like a regular breadboard. You can build on what you have, but you will just need to translate the copper traces into wires.

[zachlovescoffee]

Thanks all! I'll build something and post a photo to see if I'm on the right direction.

Z

[zachlovescoffee]

Okie dokie! I put together a board. No idea if it works. What I do know is that there is continuity between every single point on the board. I'm thinking that is because a lot of the copper trace intersects with different components. Do I need to cut all of the copper traces and just let the circuit be "point to point" through the components?

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/07/jfet-matcher.html

[zachlovescoffee]

One last photo

[Aentons]

Uhh.. sorry, if there was a misunderstanding. No that's not going to work

You need a breadboard layout for the boards you have.

[Aentons]

There are some pics in this thread of the breadboard that I used a couple years ago.
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32212.msg309578#msg309578

I think I used the schematic in the MB Nom Nom build doc
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/FilterMod/pdf/NomNom2020.pdf

Edit: I used jkokuras schematic from the pdf he posted in that thread

[Aentons]

Also note that you are using a TL072 and the vero and others are laid out for a TL071. They have different pinouts. However, the 72 is like having two 71s in the same chip so you can use the 72 if that's all you have, but you will have to do the translation on the pinouts.

[zachlovescoffee]

I ordered a breadboard with Va, Vb, Vc inputs. I guess for now I'll build one on the breadboard. Is Vero board what I'd build if I wanted something more "permanent" but shy of creating an actual PCB?

I only have the TL072. I'm a little confused on v+ and v- and how they both have +/- in and out. v+ = positive? v- = negative? I assume that + and - from the battery? My knowledge is growing in this area but I'm still admittedly ignorant.

[jimilee]

I'm the diagram, the red squares are cuts.


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[Aentons]

I'm sorry, I gave you a bad diagram. The tl072 pins are labeled incorrectly in that previous pic. Here is a better one. Yes, The V stands for Voltage. V+ and Vcc+ are both labels for positive power. GND and V- are negative power.

Opamps have both a + (non inverting) and - (inverting) input, and a single output. To do amplification, the inputs are designed to balance each other like Jedi and Sith.

[zachlovescoffee]

I think I have an OPA134, which according to Google is an alternative to TL701? Same pin out?

[zachlovescoffee]

Crud. Turns out I put that OPA134 into my VFE miniMu.

So, could someone help me understand how I would use one of the THOUSAND TL072's I have? I understand it's a dual opamp vs the TL071, which is a single opamp. Does that mean I only need to connect one side of the IC to my circuit? Does it matter which side?

[jimilee]

Crud. Turns out I put that OPA134 into my VFE miniMu.

So, could someone help me understand how I would use one of the THOUSAND TL072's I have? I understand it's a dual opamp vs the TL071, which is a single opamp. Does that mean I only need to connect one side of the IC to my circuit? Does it matter which side?

Nope, the pinout is different, it won't work. Look up the pinout of both, you can see what I'm talking about.  If you put you ICs in sockets, grab one out just for troubleshooting purposes.


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