I stupidly f'd up a solder pad on a pot...

[okeephoss]

got frustrated while desoldering and removed 9 to 12 oclock of a solder pad on the non solder side... everything is still intact.  The solder side is fine.
Dumb question I know...

[EBK]

I don't see a question in your post. 

[madbean]

got frustrated while desoldering and removed 9 to 12 oclock of a solder pad on the non solder side... everything is still intact.  The solder side is fine.
Dumb question I know...

If some of the pad is still there then it may be okay. It just depends on the trace it's connected to.
- If the trace is on the top and normally connects at the portion you lost then you might have a problem.
- If the trace is on the bottom where your pad is fully soldered then no problem.
- Best thing it to use a continuity checker to see if the soldered lead has continuity with the next part the traces connect to.

Let me know if need more explanation. It's frustrating but not hard at all to work around.

[okeephoss]

i think it's not okay... I tried the thing where you wrap a circle of lead wire in the shape of the solder pad and soldered it.  It's a dual pot... and the trouble area is an area I can't see... looks okay but I'm not convinced.  Spent a bunch of $ on this pedal already.  Could you go into more detail on how to do the continuity test?  It's a 100kC dual... univibe...

[madbean]

i think it's not okay... I tried the thing where you wrap a circle of lead wire in the shape of the solder pad and soldered it.  It's a dual pot... and the trouble area is an area I can't see... looks okay but I'm not convinced.  Spent a bunch of $ on this pedal already.  Could you go into more detail on how to do the continuity test?  It's a 100kC dual... univibe...

Sure. Start with telling which project specifically you are building and pic of the problem area. Not to worry, this is a problem that can be solved.

[okeephoss]

Solder side on the other side.  This side is where the pad is gone 9 to 12 o'clock.  I couldn't have picked a worse spot to do this. 


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[okeephoss]

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[jimilee]

So, if you look at the top of the board, you can see the middle lug is connected to the lug next to it. On the top side, you can connect it with a jumper wire or test continuity between the two soldered lugs. I can't quite tell the orientation of the underside or I could be exact.


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[okeephoss]

This is the top side.  Wish I could provide a clearer pic of the bottom.  I could clip the bottom three leads to lift up the pot....


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[Zerro]

That's why I don't like those two-sided solder pads concept. To get something out, when once was soldered in, is very problematic even with very good tin-pump. Solution for future is to solder those points only at the copper track side, not to reach out at the other side. No use for it - that pad will connect it anyway. Carefull soldering. Maybe, if you found, that device works ok, and you have not plan to change pots with another values, you can solder it more deeply. Then you will disassemble it at very end of that machine existention - then doesn't matter anymore about some pads.

[jimilee]

This is the top side.  Wish I could provide a clearer pic of the bottom.  I could clip the bottom three leads to lift up the pot....


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Naaa, just run a jumper from the middle lug to the right one. You'll be fine.


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[redkurn]

I just fixed a pedal my friend bought from me, the Pigbutt. I liked the Mudbunny more.

Anyway, he melted the pad for the dc jack instead of removing the jack from the wiring. (oops!) oh well, I got him covered.

I scratched back a bit for the ground near the through hole and soldered down a resistor leg, wrapped it around the board and soldered part of the leg to the board and wire all at once with a nice puddle, the positive I used the schematic to trace to the resistor it connects to and soldered a resistor leg there and pulled it through the original hole.

Pedal is repaired, dc jack is still soldered in the original location, but since I couldn't see or find the trace I bypassed it.
Hopefully this helps?