3D printed boxes

[redkurn]

I am working on making a few boxes ready to print and populate with projects.
This could become a regular thing I do, I could also create a physical drill guide that can be easy to handle, possibly be reused for other projects or even mixed and matched for a more customized experience.
No one is downloading these yet, but I'll keep adding them as I make them for my projects.

Post edited to remove bloat no longer relevant.

Pinning file links and attachments here.
SlowLoris2020 : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871463
Fireaxe : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4882399

[matmosphere]

If you download the .zip files on the shop page it usually has the .psd file for the layout. I have used it in the past to create faceplates in tinkered. What I found is easiest (because I am old school) is printing the drill guide from the BOM and using calipers to measure everything, then taking those measurements into tinkered to make a faceplate. It works very well; in fact the biggest issue is the faceplates are sometimes more precise than my drilling.

[matmosphere]

totally interested to see what you come up with. I really enjoy exploring the possible intersection of 3d printing and pedal building. I've done a half dozen or so faceplates and they look very nice, so it would be cool to try a full enclosure with artwork right on it

[Ben N]

Maybe even fully shielded boxes. https://3dprinting.com/3d-printing-use-cases/conductive-materials-for-3d-printing/

[redkurn]

Maybe even fully shielded boxes. https://3dprinting.com/3d-printing-use-cases/conductive-materials-for-3d-printing/

Can use copper conductive tape and would likely have better results, I have printed a few boxes and none have had any issue yet.

totally interested to see what you come up with. I really enjoy exploring the possible intersection of 3d printing and pedal building. I've done a half dozen or so faceplates and they look very nice, so it would be cool to try a full enclosure with artwork right on it

I like this idea, but I am crap at designing anything artistic in cad XD

If you download the .zip files on the shop page it usually has the .psd file for the layout. I have used it in the past to create faceplates in tinkered. What I found is easiest (because I am old school) is printing the drill guide from the BOM and using calipers to measure everything, then taking those measurements into tinkered to make a faceplate. It works very well; in fact the biggest issue is the faceplates are sometimes more precise than my drilling.

I'll check it out, might be able to get accurate measurements for hole placement.

[redkurn]

I think this will do for positioning my extruded cuts on the 125B model I have, posting it so Brian can take a peek at what I am doing.
The holes may end up .1mm off, but thats easy to fix with printed boxes.

[redkurn]

Went ahead and designed up a prototype, used center line where possible.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871463
Zip also attached.

Update:
Holes turned out ok, a little smaller than designed, but stepper bit by hand glides through PLA like it's not there and the fitment...
To quote an actor I've lost all respect for 'Like a glove!'.

Moving attachment to first post.

[gordo]

This is too cool.  I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal.  Now if you integrate the labels, like an etch, into the top.  Even in a monochrome scheme it would look very slick.

[redkurn]

This is too cool.  I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal.  Now if you integrate the labels, like an etch, into the top.  Even in a monochrome scheme it would look very slick.

Thanks, hope it can be useful, figured I'm making them for myself might as well share.

My nozzle doesn't do text very well, I'm running a .6 on a volcano nozzle and printing at .4 layer height for speed.
I can add text, but it would have to be raised for me to know if it came out decent, also only have one color to print with and not much luck in the past swapping during a print so I just use paint. XD

When I do the box for the FireAxe I'll add raised text.

[redkurn]

This is too cool.  I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal.  Now if you integrate the labels, like an etch, into the top.  Even in a monochrome scheme it would look very slick.

Prototype is good to go.

[matmosphere]

!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!

Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.

[redkurn]

!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!

Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.

Face down and ironing is on, so the inside is nicely textured and smooth, that would make contact with shielding tape would definitely have a good mounting surface.
The holes in the print are the first layer only, which leads me to these next thoughts.

While it didn't warp, my first layer isn't perfect and the areas you can visually see, can be felt.
Still haven't shimmed it to get a good tram on the bed, but I think if I used the center as my starting point when leveling I could get it to negate the cupping of the bed.
Creality it seems never did get the bed manufacturing down and if I had the money, I'd take it to a machine shop, have them straighten or make me a new aluminum bed with added center support.

[matmosphere]

!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!

Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.

Face down and ironing is on, so the inside is nicely textured and smooth, that would make contact with shielding tape would definitely have a good mounting surface.
The holes in the print are the first layer only, which leads me to these next thoughts.

While it didn't warp, my first layer isn't perfect and the areas you can visually see, can be felt.
Still haven't shimmed it to get a good tram on the bed, but I think if I used the center as my starting point when leveling I could get it to negate the cupping of the bed.
Creality it seems never did get the bed manufacturing down and if I had the money, I'd take it to a machine shop, have them straighten or make me a new aluminum bed with added center support.

I was working on that the other day. I think the dip has to do with the magnetic bed, not the aluminum bed itself. The magnetic build plate has an adhesive layer that attaches to the aluminum plate. I think the dip is in that middle layer, and probably has to do with it not being installed well. Mine doesn't have a huge dip but it's there.

It might also have to do with that layer being the weak point with the heating, but I'm not sure.

I've considered trying a glass build plate, but I'm not ready to pry off that middle layer yet. The magnetic plate is just too easy to use.

[redkurn]

I was working on that the other day. I think the dip has to do with the magnetic bed, not the aluminum bed itself. The magnetic build plate has an adhesive layer that attaches to the aluminum plate. I think the dip is in that middle layer, and probably has to do with it not being installed well. Mine doesn't have a huge dip but it's there.

It might also have to do with that layer being the weak point with the heating, but I'm not sure.

I've considered trying a glass build plate, but I'm not ready to pry off that middle layer yet. The magnetic plate is just too easy to use.

It's definitely in the aluminum, take a ruler and go across the whole bed and you will see light where it dips.
I'm using a self leveling setting which I am basically programming a mesh by leveling and adjusting 21-25 points on my cr-10s and from there it automatically corrects to a degree, but from my first layer it isn't perfect.

I'm using cura, switched from simplify3d... my initial printing temperature and printing temperature inital layer is 195c and printing temperature is 200c, my initial layer flow is 115%, flow is set to 96%.

Those numbers won't work perfect for you, but it's a good starting point.
I also followed everything I could on this page:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

The only thing to do after following that page and using the tools he provided is get a really good level and for that I am using a feeler gauge, .1mm.

[gordo]

So if I'm looking to get into a printer for minimal $$ but good usability, what should I be looking for?