How to cut stripboard to size

[mjg]

Yeah, I've also used the Dremel if I want to be neat, or a pair of old pliers if I don't want to go out to the shed. 

[matmosphere]

Dave is absolutely right, if you use a dremel make sure to use a mask, those particles will distort your lungs.

[Willybomb]

I glue the proper scaled vero layout to the veroboard, and score the vero around that.  Bend and break.

[matmosphere]

I glue the proper scaled vero layout to the veroboard, and score the vero around that.  Bend and break.

Oh, that is smart! Bet it makes the builds a lot easier too.

[gordo]

Tin snips.  It's a bit overkill but you don't need good ones and you can make irregular shaped cuts as well.

[flanagan0718]

I've done a bunch of vero builds over the years and here is how I cut to size and make drills and jumpers.

Cut to size
I measure one row and column out. So, if it is a 10 x 12 I measure 11 x 13 and cut down the middle of the extra row and column. I use a box cutter and metal ruler and score each side 4 or 5 times. Then I snap it with a pair of pliers and file the edges smooth.

I find that measuring the extra row and column gives me not only a straight line to score with the holes but extra "oops" room...just in case.

Jumpers
Save the first few leads that you cut off from the resistors or caps. These make great jumpers for the non copper side of the boards. They are nice and small and sit pretty flat on the board.

I find that wire is sometimes too bulky and gets in the way if you want a nice clean pcb. Also sometimes the stripped wire is a little too thick after you tin the wire for the jumper. At least you know the trimmed leads fit through the holes.

Drills / cuts
I honestly use a drill bit to make these. I do it by hand and usually test both sides of the trace with a multimeter. This is tedious but it's how I first started doing cuts on vero. Plus it give you a nice even circular cut. I don't go all the way through, just enough to cut the trace.

Other tips and tricks
Vero can be VERY frustrating if you don't take your time and pay attention to detail. It is easy to connect traces and not even know it. Make sure that the ends of the runs are not touching at the edge of the board. Also it's a good idea to run your razor (box cutter) down the space in between the copper runs. I do this a few times to make sure there are no unwanted solder bridges. I also run the tip of my iron down the same space just in case. One more thing...the less solder the better. Big globs are never your friend. If you do have a big glob on there it's better to use you solder wick or pump and pull all the excess of and then reapply a little dab. Trust me, take the time it will save you many head aches.

Anyway hope my long winded, misspelled reply helps. ;-)

-Mike-


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[Willybomb]

I glue the proper scaled vero layout to the veroboard, and score the vero around that.  Bend and break.

Oh, that is smart! Bet it makes the builds a lot easier too.

Oh yeah, I went from probably 50/50 chance of working first go, to something more like 95% working first go.  I mean, have a look at this one!

[gordo]

That's some hardcore offboard wiring.  I like it.

[matmosphere]

Thanks willybomb, such a cool idea. I think I'll try it next time.

And yeah, that is some serious off board wiring. I don't envy that.

[jimilee]

Thanks willybomb, such a cool idea. I think I'll try it next time.

And yeah, that is some serious off board wiring. I don't envy that.

Right, he could wire about 3 or 4 more pedals with that wire.


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