Can you fry your components?

[Zerro]

- Hi, I apply lacqueer 1. before population, even before drilling holes. Lacqueer after drilling holes would blind the holes. Let to fasten for cca 12 hours. Then drill and you can populate - this film will help you to better and reliable soldering. But I use rosin straight while soldering too. But for this is bettter to use pistol soldering for better regulating the heating of top. After I populated and cleared solded pionts from tin dust and rest of burned rosin by needle and soft metal brush, I revive werk I created, and if everything is ok, I will make second layer, to protect PCB. If something is wrong, controll at first PCB tracks, if heat didn't crack the pahts. Or if you didn't make some bridges between next tracks. That's why that clearing wit needle and brush.

- Rosin is dissolved by technical alcohol or nitro dissolver. I use alcohol. Pour several drops to rosin and use brush to circle there and add another alcohol - like with watercolors. After cca 1 min you can use this for painting. Add another alcohol and continue. Or you can bit some rosin and dissolve it in some little glass to get density like for some lacque.

- I don't mostly apply rosin directly at components. Only, if I want to tin them previously for some special reason. I use rosin while soldering as I described. Take some tin at top of pistol, and while it is hot enough (but not too much), bring some amount of rosin with it. Then use it at place you solder. Too hot top will vapour rosin and too cold will glue it in rosin :@(  Don't solder too long. Coz rosin will vapour and tin will "pull", and make noodles then instead pretty bulbs. And you can burn PCB track or detail. You only train it several times - it is easy at real.

Uff, I hope I was clear, english is not my native language...