Need help with a cab issue

[redkurn]

I found a 'empty' 4x12 cab on OfferUp for free, went and picked up the cab, got home and found within it wasn't actually empty!

Found the following:
Line 6 Celestion C12E-50 4Ohm 50w
Two Team Sonic C30L34 4Ohm 40-120w
FST 87-450-80 8Ohm 30w

The FST I found the info on reverb, it's hard to read much more than 8Ohm on the speaker itself.
https://reverb.com/item/1062205-new-12-8-ohm-30w-guitar-speaker-fst-86-450-08

As you can see in the picture, the wiring is a mess and makes no wonder the guy thought it was empty, if the speakers are even any good.

I've been trying to work out how I can get this cab down to at least 8Ohm for one head and possibly use a toggle switch to flip the wiring to get it down to 4Ohm for a different head. I'd be happy to get it to 8Ohm, but my best thought upon it is I would likely be able to get it down to 10Ohm if connected series parallel.

Is there another way to wire this using all speakers or should I just use two 4Ohm in series?

[redkurn]

Using a multimeter and trying to work out how to do this, posted bad wiring and need to rethink it. 

[danfrank]

Wire it like a typical Marshall 4 X 12 (series parallel) and you'll basically have a 4 ohm cab. It will actually be 4.8 ohms; close enough to 4 ohm. If your amps are solid state, they will take a 4 ohm cab. If you have tube amps, hopefully they have a 4 ohm tap.
Put the 8ohm and Celestion in series with each other, and then the two black labeled speakers in series with each other. Then parallel the two pairs. Make sure the speakers are good and have no voice coil rub before you spend a lot of time on this.

[redkurn]

While I was busy checking they work (they do) wiring it up with what I thought I found was  7 ohm, which the 8 ohm itself read 6.8 ohm and I wish I saw your post first.

I ended up with 2-4 ohm. 

My amp that I can use at the moment can only go as low as 8 ohm, the one I'm waiting for parts and (fingers crossed) I'm going to repair can do 4 ohm and I'm thinking 14ga wire is what increased the resistance.

I would need a visual of what you're saying would work, unless one of my circuits is what you've suggested. Which being tired at the moment I believe I put the black label and Celestion in series and the FST in parallel which should have gotten basically 8 ohm.

I might tear it apart, drop the switches and see where it ends up, the very last image is what I based my switching on and the ohm on the speaker image can be ignored, but the red impedance is what I got from my multimeter and it's a really good true rms.

Have a look below at my diagram, followed fully and corrected when I saw a mistake.

[redkurn]

Wire it like a typical Marshall 4 X 12 (series parallel) and you'll basically have a 4 ohm cab. It will actually be 4.8 ohms; close enough to 4 ohm. If your amps are solid state, they will take a 4 ohm cab. If you have tube amps, hopefully they have a 4 ohm tap.
Put the 8ohm and Celestion in series with each other, and then the two black labeled speakers in series with each other. Then parallel the two pairs. Make sure the speakers are good and have no voice coil rub before you spend a lot of time on this.

Is this what you mean?

[alanp]

You're a more patient man than me. I'd just save up and get four greenbacks or something by now.

[redkurn]

You're a more patient man than me. I'd just save up and get four greenbacks or something by now.

I've just got a cab I was building already that I can use, but I've been trying to work this out since the day I got the cab and found the speakers.
It only looks like patience since tomorrow I'm de-soldering half of my work and trying something else. I've got half of what I wanted working, so might simplify and just use one switch to disable two speakers. cut my time and play losses XD

[danfrank]

This...

[alanp]

I'd say keep the two black labels, pull the other two entirely, and just run it as a two-speaker cab with added ventilation, see how that sounds.

[redkurn]

This...

I'll give that a try, thanks dan.

With my alligator clips and the input jack I wired previous, my MM reads 6.2. Looks promising.
4.2 when everything is soldered in, still too low for my 8 ohm amp?

[redkurn]

I'd say keep the two black labels, pull the other two entirely, and just run it as a two-speaker cab with added ventilation, see how that sounds.

I think that's what I am going to have to do until I repair the 4 ohm head I was given.

6.8 falls in line with what I've read a MM will show for 8 Ohm.

Would this work to get me approximately 4Ω with the flip of a switch?
I'd rather not have to open the cab again later. XD
Solid lines are what I have currently, except the red and black pencil lines and it is 8Ω series, it's basically what danfrank showed me, but adds the parallel/series at the flip of a switch... so it should work.

That worked out perfect, thanks for the help.

[alanp]

My big worry for you is whether your switches can handle all the watts that would be pumping through them.

[redkurn]

My big worry for you is whether your switches can handle all the watts that would be pumping through them.

Switch is rated for 125v 6A should be enough I'd imagine, using 14Ga speaker wire, from the zombie it should be 20w @ 8Ω 1.6A 12.6V, the other head should be 100w @ 4Ω 5A 20V and gives me 1A headroom, hopefully it's enough since I would have preferred a 10A switch.
At least according to this calculator:
https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html

Sounds pretty good on my 20w zombie, though compared to my friends 4x12 I am hearing a metal rattle like sound, but it could be anything in this room vibrating since I don't hear it at a lower volume.

All in all a good learning experience and the only thing it cost me was some gas to pick it up, wire, a switch and solder. worth it for a free 4x12 that can do two jobs even if while doing one job it's only being half used.

[redkurn]

I'm not sure, but one speaker kind of sounds blown, I didn't seal the cab like you would with a subwoofer box, just screws.

Are cabs normally sealed?