Anybody heard of using Future floor polish on pedals?

[gordo]

I used to build car models when I was a kid and I checked out a few Youtube videos recently to see if the hobby was still alive.  Very much so.  The guy in the video finished off by noting that his finished build was topped off with two brushed on coats of future.  Wait, what?  So after a bit of digging apparently this is a thing.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Revive-It-Floor-Gloss-Restores-and-Protects-Sealed-Wood-Floors-1-Bottle-27-oz/15136693?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=5276&&adid=22222222253447853170&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=480168625112&wl4=pla-295996781749&wl5=9021431&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15136693&wl13=5276&veh=sem&wl18=showcase&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzZL-BRDnARIsAPCJs71djFKx312EjVlsuCjKRaCh7ifcdaI9DxdnFINzyjrtFGee-yLAF9IaAtdjEALw_wcB

It's now been rebranded by Pledge.  You brush on a couple of coats over the finished pedal (I take the knobs off and avoid switches and jacks) with about an hour or two between coats.  It goes on like water, although if you get dust in it you should wipe it off and start again.  Apparently its some form of plastic that fills in small scratches and imperfections and leaves a uniform shine on the pedal.

It looks really good.  I'll do a few before and after shots because I'm obsessed with the stuff now.

[Bio77]

Please do, this sounds great.  I'm using Armorall as a final treatment to mine now. 

[Aentons]

Idk... It might restrict the toanz...

[cooder]

Back to the future, aye...? Looking forward to seeing photos...

[mauman]

+1.  It's acrylic, made to be walked on.  It's not as hard as polyurethane but cures a lot faster (24-48 hours vs. 1-2 weeks for poly.)  Alcohol will soften it, and 100% ammonia will strip it off completely without damaging a waterslide underneath which can be handy for refinishing.  Two coats 24 hours apart make a nicely glossy top coat.  Self-flattens amazingly well with no bubbles and can be applied with a cheap foam brush, but you have to work fast and avoid the temptation to retouch.  It yellows slightly with long-term exposure to UV, but it's not obvious except over a white enclosure.  And none of the concerns about humidity, temperature and VOCs that come with spray finishes.  It's well-known in modeling and rocketry circles.  Mike
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

[EBK]

Sounds similar to Minwax Polycrylic but perhaps thinner.

[Willybomb]

As a hack modeller, I can tell you that a lot of people use pledge, but there are probably more who say that there are better things to use.  As a former hack pedal maker, I think there are better things to use than floor polish as a pedal finish...  I feel the same about armourall too.

[matmosphere]

Cool idea, I'm interested to see how this looks.

As a hack modeller, I can tell you that a lot of people use pledge, but there are probably more who say that there are better things to use.  As a former hack pedal maker, I think there are better things to use than floor polish as a pedal finish...  I feel the same about armourall too.

As a total hack pedal builder I think that, while there are probably better things to use, sometimes you don't need the "best" finish as long as the toanz are there. Those Arion stereo delays look about as terrible as anything I can think of.. but they sound pretty decent.

I love the way envirotex works, but damn it's a pain to deal with and it's not worth all the time it takes. Etching looks great, but I can't deal with the chemicals because of my asthma. Spray lacquer can be really nice and very easy, but I don't have anywhere to spray these days. I have done Mod-Podge and it's alright but not great. I'm always up for trying new things.

[mauman]

Sounds similar to Minwax Polycrylic but perhaps thinner.

Similar,  not quite as durable but easier to apply.  I kept having trouble with brush marks in Polycrylic so I finally gave it up, I'm sure it was my lack of painterly technique.     I like Minwax One-Coat Poly but it stays soft for a long time and scars easily until it cures.

Cool idea, I'm interested to see how this looks.

Here's 2 coats of Pledge/Future over waterslide on a factory-powder-coated Hammond 1590xx.   The coat of arms is on a small piece of white waterslide, the rest is on clear. Mike

[harryklippton]

That does indeed look great mauman!

[gordo]

I'm getting similar results.

The pedal is old B-stock from when I was still building Laffing Dog Blue Dog overdrives.  The enclosure on the left is the worst with tape residue and some nasty scratches.




I sanded it smooth after using Naptha to remove the tape.  We had them powdercoated and then 3 color screen printed followed by a clear coat of lacquer.  Most of the damage is in the clearcoat.



I dipped this box and then let the runoff drip before setting on paper towel.  This is the first coat and is dry.

[mauman]

That looks great, Gordy.  I usually go 24 hours between coats (maker says 8 hours) and another 24 hours before installing pots, etc.  If I screw up and need to retouch, I just blanket the whole surface and it blends with previous coats well.  Touch-up with a small brush doesn't blend as well.   Mike

[gordo]

I think I need to let it dry longer as you mentioned.  A recoat looks much more dull.  I'll let this one sit and hit it again tomorrow.

[mauman]

It also likes a really thin coat, I usually hold mine with the face vertical and let it drip dry for 5-10 seconds before laying it flat to dry.  A cold or humid environment (my garage right now in TX) will cloud it before it cures, so I work in the house in winter.  Smells nice, too.      

[Brad Hill]

Are these inkjet or laser prints on the waterslide decals?  Just curious to know if the Pledge reacts with the ink.  Am I safe in assuming you'd still have to do mist coats over inkjet?