Help with parts-I'm a NOOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[PaxWorks]

I'm trying to purchase the parts to build the pastyface/soul bender. I've found most but I'm having difficulty understanding the discriptions on others. One part I don't even know what it is.

I'm trying to find 100n,220n and 15n capacitors-what's then stand for? I can't seem to find it on SmallBear electronics stock list.

Also looking for the 10uF and the 22uF capacitors-Whats uF?

Also whats a BIAS 500k and the Q1-Q3 GE?

Oh, Whats a 3k3 resitor?

I can't seem to find these parts on Smallbear, what am I doing wrong?

[madbean]

All these parts are there, you just don't know the naming differences yet. But, that's exactly the kind of help you can get here

The "n" suffix is simply another way to write the value of a component. It stands for nano-farad (where the Farad is the unit measurement of capacitance). So, the two standards you will most often find are the nano (n) and the micro-farad (u), and they are written as nF (or n for short) and uF. The difference in the scale of measurements is a factor of 100. So, for example:

.1uF = 100n
.22uF = 220n
and .015uF = 15n

Note that Steve often lists his caps as mF, which is just another way of writing uF (micro). So, if you want a 100n cap, smallbear will list that as .1mF, and so on.

Those are under the 'low voltage poly film' caps, like the Panasonic ECQ-B's or the box caps he now carries.

Larger values are usually electrolytic or tantalum caps. Stick with electrolytic and avoid tantalum, if possible (tants will blow up if you solder them in backwards and are a little more prone to failure).

So, the 10uF and 22uF caps you will find under the low voltage electrolytic capicatos.

Bias 500k is a trimpot, which is an internal component used to fine tune the effect. It's like a potentiometer, just on a small scale and it's directly mounted to the PCB.

Q1-Q3 GE stands for germanium transistors, which are the type used in many classic fuzzes. They come in two varities: PNP and NPN. PNP are for positive ground effects (which is what the Pastyface is) and NPN are for negative ground effects. There are reasons for using one versus the other, but that's probably not too important now. The main thing is that PNP are positive ground, and that means they are used with battery only, unless you have a special power supply that provides an isolated -9v DC. It's okay though, because fuzzes have very low current draw and will not consume a lot of battery power.

You'll want to pick one of the "Tonebender" sets of transistors offered at smallbear for the Pastyface. That is essentially what the effect is, and those are the appropriate types of transistors to use.

3k3 is simply another way of writing 3.3k. Just shorthand. Similarly, you might see something like 2n2 which is another way of writing 2.2nF.

[PaxWorks]

Thanks for the Help!

DId I get the right stuff?

43K to 220K - Individual
(47K) 0903 6.8K to 39K - Individual
(10K)
0903 6.8K to 39K - Individual
(18K)
2201 Diode 1N270
2202 Diode 1N4001

1014 Pot, Sovtek, 100K Russian Big Muff
 
1001 Alpha Single-Gang 24mm, Linear & Audio Taper, Solder Terms
(500K Audio)
1311 Xicon Ceramic Capacitors, 47 pf. to 820 pf.
(100 pf.)
1311 Xicon Ceramic Capacitors, 47 pf. to 820 pf.
(150 pf.)
0902 1.1K to 6.2K - Individual
(3.3K)
1101B Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-V .01 mf. - .1 mf.
(.01 mf.)  0904 43K to 220K - Individual
(220K)
1400 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Axial 16 V 1 mf. - 100 mf.
(10 mf.)  1400 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Axial 16 V 1 mf. - 100 mf.
(22 mf.)
1015 Trimpot, Cermet
(500K)
0300 Box - Taiwanese 'BB' Size

0320 Rubber Feet 3M #SJ-5514 Pack Of 4

0828A Knob, White, Vintage

0101 Transistor Set - 3-Knob Tone Bender PNP

[madbean]

That looks about right, but I'm confused about the Big Muff pot there. Any particular reason you chose that?

[Haberdasher]

Parts help with a different fuzz please.  The Zygote Mojo.

When I order germaniums from smallbear will I have to wait until the parts arrive to know which resistor values he recommends?

Also, the 20uF sprague you recommend in your pdf is on back order at mouser.  Another 20uF Sprague of similar attribute ( TVA1305.5 ) is available.  Can I substitute that one, or will the higher voltage rating/or other be problematic?

thanks

[madbean]

Parts help with a different fuzz please.  The Zygote Mojo.

When I order germaniums from smallbear will I have to wait until the parts arrive to know which resistor values he recommends?

Also, the 20uF sprague you recommend in your pdf is on back order at mouser.  Another 20uF Sprague of similar attribute ( TVA1305.5 ) is available.  Can I substitute that one, or will the higher voltage rating/or other be problematic?

thanks

You don't necessarily have to us the resistor values he puts in. The circuit will bias with the trimpot. So, for whatever value he suggests for R3 (my schem) I would adjust the trimpot to approximately that value before soldering it on. You will have that 100R in series with it, so after you fire it up measure the voltage on the collector Q2 - you should read around -4.5v with a fresh battery. If not, just play with the trim a little bit. Anything between -4.5 and -5.5 volts will sound great.

As far as the other resistors he lists, you can use the closest approximate value you have. Those values are less important--the main thing is getting Q2 biased correctly.

For the Sprague--you can certainly use the 50v version there. The stock value for the circuit is 22uF. I chose the 20uF Sprague mainly for mojo. You could just as easily use a Xicon 22uF axial there if you want.

I think fuzzes are much more personalized builds so component types a values can vary greatly. Luckily, they are so simple to work with that it makes it easy and fun to try different parts and values throughout the whole circuit.

[Haberdasher]

Parts help with a different fuzz please.  The Zygote Mojo.

When I order germaniums from smallbear will I have to wait until the parts arrive to know which resistor values he recommends?

Also, the 20uF sprague you recommend in your pdf is on back order at mouser.  Another 20uF Sprague of similar attribute ( TVA1305.5 ) is available.  Can I substitute that one, or will the higher voltage rating/or other be problematic?

thanks

You don't necessarily have to us the resistor values he puts in. The circuit will bias with the trimpot. So, for whatever value he suggests for R3 (my schem) I would adjust the trimpot to approximately that value before soldering it on. You will have that 100R in series with it, so after you fire it up measure the voltage on the collector Q2 - you should read around -4.5v with a fresh battery. If not, just play with the trim a little bit. Anything between -4.5 and -5.5 volts will sound great.

As far as the other resistors he lists, you can use the closest approximate value you have. Those values are less important--the main thing is getting Q2 biased correctly.

For the Sprague--you can certainly use the 50v version there. The stock value for the circuit is 22uF. I chose the 20uF Sprague mainly for mojo. You could just as easily use a Xicon 22uF axial there if you want.

I think fuzzes are much more personalized builds so component types a values can vary greatly. Luckily, they are so simple to work with that it makes it easy and fun to try different parts and values throughout the whole circuit.

Thanks, I think I follow all that.  For a pnp the collector would be the neg side, correct?

Does it matter what pair of pnp ge's I order from smallbear?

At this point I don't know the difference from a sprague to a xicon, and there are about 20 caps that come up with a xicon axial 22uF search at mouser- both aluminum and polyester.  Could I use any of those?

sigh, looks like I have a lot to learn...

[madbean]

The collector receives current from the power supply and provides gain to the input signal at the base. It is the collector that needs to get the proper voltage in order to do its thing most efficiently. The emitter is usually connected either directly to ground or through a resistor (called the feedback stabilizer).

For electrolytic caps, ie the 22uf, what you want is axial, aluminum, and anything between 16v and 50v tolerance. You can use higher tolerances, but this usually comes with a bulkier size. Whether or not you choose Xicons or Spragues doesn't matter too much. That's more of a personal choice, and whether or not you want to spend $.30 or $1.50 for your cap

[jkokura]

The "n" suffix is simply another way to write the value of a component. It stands for nano-farad (where the Farad is the unit measurement of capacitance). So, the two standards you will most often find are the nano (n) and the micro-farad (u), and they are written as nF (or n for short) and uF. The difference in the scale of measurements is a factor of 100. So, for example:

.1uF = 100n
.22uF = 220n
and .15uF = 15n

Just wanted to note that it should be .15uF = 150nF! If you want a 15n, you need a .015uF cap...

Jacob

[madbean]

Jacob, thanks. Corrected.

[jkokura]

NP, just trying to help.

Jacob

[TRADAmpGuy]

The "n" suffix is simply another way to write the value of a component. It stands for nano-farad (where the Farad is the unit measurement of capacitance). So, the two standards you will most often find are the nano (n) and the micro-farad (u), and they are written as nF (or n for short) and uF. The difference in the scale of measurements is a factor of 100. So, for example:

.1uF = 100n
.22uF = 220n
and .15uF = 15n

Just wanted to note that it should be .15uF = 150nF! If you want a 15n, you need a .015uF cap...

Jacob

also, uF to nF to pF are factors of 1000 each conversion

[oldhousescott]

The difference in the scale of measurements is a factor of 100.

Just a typo I'm sure, but as TRADAmpGuy said, the scale difference is a factor of 1000.

[oldhousescott]

And while I'm posting to an old thread.....

Electrolytic cap tolerance is usually quoted at +20/-20 percent, so the difference between 20uF and 22uF is moot, unless you have a way to test caps for exact values.