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Modded Bazz Fuzz Problem

Started by vasilis, July 27, 2019, 10:32:00 AM

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vasilis

Hello there,

I'm new to the DIY Guitar Pedal World (I've previously built a LPB-1 and  a Fuzz Face) and I tried to build the Bazz Fuzz with a modification I saw at DIY Guitar Pedals YouTube channel that adds a "Fuzz" control.

The basic schematic is from this website: http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html.

I've used the v3 and I added a a switch to change between the 1N914 diode and an orange LED. I've drawn the final schematic as well as the perfboard orientation I made.
But when I tested it didn't seem to work. There was the exact same sound of the guitar as without the effect (the volume knob just adjusted the volume) but there was no "fuzz" sound.

(I know the transistors in the perfboard layout are the other way, they are the correct way at the circuit. Also I checked for solder bridges and there were none. Plus I replaced the switch with a wire to solve the problem first.)

Can any of you guys help me PLEASE??

midwayfair

Use your multimeter and take voltages on all pins of the transistors and both sides of the 10K resistor. You haven't wired it to a switch yet, right?

vasilis

#2
Quote from: midwayfair on July 27, 2019, 05:26:09 PM
take voltages on all pins of the transistors and both sides of the 10K resistor

Can you explain me how I will do that?
Where will I put the ends of the multimeter?

Quote from: midwayfair on July 27, 2019, 05:26:09 PM
You haven't wired it to a switch yet, right?

Not yet.

Thanks for the response!

mjg

Put your multimeter on the voltage setting.

Connect the black (negative) probe of the meter to any of the Ground parts of the circuit, or to the negative pin of the power supply or battery.

Touch the red (positive) probe of the multimeter to the points that you want to test,  write down the numbers on the screen for each point. 

matmosphere

From the looks of it you need to make a connection from the anode of the diode to, what I am assuming is the pad for the middle of the toggle switch.

vasilis

Quote from: midwayfair on July 27, 2019, 05:26:09 PM
take voltages on all pins of the transistors

The measurements of the transistors.
On the resistor there was 8.6V the same as what goes in the collectors of the transistors.

vasilis

Quote from: Matmosphere on July 28, 2019, 01:50:32 AM
From the looks of it you need to make a connection from the anode of the diode to, what I am assuming is the pad for the middle of the toggle switch.

I have. It's the little yellow wire that connects the pad of where the middle pin of the switch would be to the diode.

midwayfair

Quote from: vasilis on July 28, 2019, 10:00:16 AM
Quote from: midwayfair on July 27, 2019, 05:26:09 PM
take voltages on all pins of the transistors

The measurements of the transistors.
On the resistor there was 8.6V the same as what goes in the collectors of the transistors.

Does "none" in your drawing mean 0, or just no reading? Does it change when you change the gain pot? There should be a voltage drop across your gain pot when it's not set to 0R.

It's at least possible that either the transistors go zapped or they aren't making contact with the sockets, also. If you have another way to test them I would do that, and I would consider soldering them in and verifying all the connectivity to them if they are still okay.

vasilis

Quote from: midwayfair on July 28, 2019, 04:11:21 PM
Does "none" in your drawing mean 0, or just no reading? Does it change when you change the gain pot?

Yes there is 0V even if I change the gain pot.

Quote from: midwayfair on July 28, 2019, 04:11:21 PM
It's at least possible that either the transistors go zapped or they aren't making contact with the sockets, also. If you have another way to test them I would do that, and I would consider soldering them in and verifying all the connectivity to them if they are still okay.

I'll replace them with some spares I have and if this doesn't work I'll solder them directly to the board as you said.

(Thanks for the help 8))

vasilis

#9
Quote from: midwayfair on July 28, 2019, 04:11:21 PM
It's at least possible that either the transistors go zapped or they aren't making contact with the sockets, also. If you have another way to test them I would do that, and I would consider soldering them in and verifying all the connectivity to them if they are still okay.

I removed the pins and soldered the transistor directly to the board. Still the multimeter shows 0V at the lower emittter or, I should say, the needle doesn't moves.

The photos below are from the multimeter I use and the manual with the transistor tests. Which one will sow me if they are zapped?
I'm thinking of buying a new electronic one which also has transistor tests.
(This one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DT830B-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Multimeter/dp/B008RJQ33E)

vasilis


vasilis

Quote from: vasilis on July 29, 2019, 03:28:55 PM
I removed the pins and soldered the transistor directly to the board. Still the multimeter shows 0V at the lower emitter or, I should say, the needle doesn't moves.

A correction to the above:
I desolder the jumper wire that connects the infamous emittter with the "gain pot and the needle is moving! ;D

The bad news is that it reads 0.05-0.1V.
So at least I know the transistor is not dead.
But what can I do about that?