Vero split usable?

[Jay]

I'm guessing no. Just confirming that's the case.




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[vizcities]

If the tracks are intact? Technically yes, but I'd still start over with a new board - veros are finicky enough as it is.

[EBK]

Is that a phenolic resin board?

[dawson]

Yeah^ what vizcities said- the solder pads &/or tracks (depending on the type of board) are the important part, so as long as you treat it gently, a board that's split in half like that will work just fine, but personally I'd happily trade the 80 cents for a fresh, strong, unabused board.

Now a couple questions for you:
  How did that even happen??
  What are you building?

[Jay]

Is that a phenolic resin board?

I honestly have no idea.

It was advertised like this:
6.5x14.5cm Stripboard Veroboard Uncut PCB Platine Single Side Circuit Perf Board


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[Jay]

Yeah^ what vizcities said- the solder pads &/or tracks (depending on the type of board) are the important part, so as long as you treat it gently, a board that's split in half like that will work just fine, but personally I'd happily trade the 80 cents for a fresh, strong, unabused board.

Now a couple questions for you:
  How did that even happen??
  What are you building?

It happened while cutting it. Probably just didn't get deep enough and put too much stress on the board. Building an mxr distortion plus with some wampler mods.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WrOham39S78/UQgbmV5XBOI/AAAAAAAABR4/eEM3oK37nAI/s1600/MXR-Distortion+-w-mods.png


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[EBK]

Is that a phenolic resin board?

I honestly have no idea.

It was advertised like this:
6.5x14.5cm Stripboard Veroboard Uncut PCB Platine Single Side Circuit Perf Board

For comparison, phenolic resin tends to be brown, perhaps slightly reddish orangish (it also gives off a sweet formaldehyde smell when heated), while epoxy resin boards tend to be more yellow/greenish.  These are still in their plastic wrap, but you can see the difference in color:

Phenolic resin, the cheaper of the two, is basically paper and glue, and it has a tendency to separate from itself and from any copper attached to it when subjected to too much stress, either thermal or mechanical.  Epoxy resin (sometimes called FR4) boards are more expensive and harder to cut, but are much more durable and reliable.

[dawson]

Thanks^ for the info', EBK, now we all get to learn something- mine are said to be made of "Bakelite," also known as "polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride" for short, so I'll have my eye out for the higher quality epoxy boards.

Good luck with the Distortion Plus, Jay.lingelbach!

[EBK]

mine are said to be made of "Bakelite," also known as "polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride" for short

To paraphrase Shakespeare:
What's in a name? That which we call polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride by any other name would smell as sweet (when heated).   

[Jay]

mine are said to be made of "Bakelite," also known as "polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride" for short

To paraphrase Shakespeare:
What's in a name? That which we call polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride by any other name would smell as sweet (when heated).   

Plus one in thanks for the knowledge!


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[vicfiveleven]

whoa! I guess I'm using the cheaper ones.  mine says bakelite too. but that hasn't happened to any of my vero yet.  I'll be sure to check the material and buy the higher quality boards. good info. thanks!

[Jay]

I went ahead and ordered the fr4 board. I'll use the rest of this. I really think it's ok stuff and that I just should have done a better job of scoring it before breaking it. But now that. I know there are better materials out there I will use that instead.
Good news however. My first attempt at Vero (a booster) was successful.


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[Jay]

Epoxy resin (sometimes called FR4) boards are more expensive and harder to cut, but are much more durable and reliable.

Oh man. You are right. These are the Cadillac of boards. Also, very hard to cut. On the cheapo vero boards a utility knife was sufficient. However it took about 20 min to cut through on these new FR4 boards. What do you recommend to cut these bad boys with?


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[EBK]

I score them deeply on both sides with a hacksaw or the corner edge (hopefully this description makes sense) of a file, then carefully break them, and file the resulting edges smooth.  I almost always sacrifice a whole row of holes when cutting these so I can file them down to a very neat edge afterward, i.e., I make my cut/break in a connect-the-dots sort of way instead of trying to cut between rows.

[Jay]

Thanks! I'll give that a try next go round.


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