Dirt Bag Parts?

[tenwatt]

Since Brian released the parts list (here) I figured I should go ahead and get this started.

What are you guys doing on the following caps and resistors for the Dirt Bag?

Resistors
13k
16k
24.3k
33.2k

Caps
1uF
1.2n
2.2uF
2.7n
3.9n
10uF
27pF
240pF

On the uFs I'm finding them but there all in 50+ volts.

Also, on the ICs, I've found a TL062CN, TL072CP, V3205SD, and a CD4047BE all at Mammoth.  Those are fine, right?  

And lastly....does anyone have a link for the mystical MN3005?

[Scruffie]

Resistors
13k - I'll probably use 12k
16k - I'll probably use 15k
24.3k - Closest Standard Value
etc.

Really wont make any difference, use what's easy to get.

Caps
1uF, 2.2uF, 10uF are all standard values, should be able to get them in voltages from 16V up, fine for the 3205 version. 3005 you may want 25V rated caps (although really anywhere post the Voltage regulator should be fine with 16V, no harm in being cautious though with higher ratings).

The other values, whatever closest standard values I can find, caps are gunna be atleast +/-10% so even if I buy the ones specified they wont be that exact value.

ICs, yes those will be fine in the circuit.

3005s, No, it's just not worth buying them even if they can be found, it's purely mojo that the audience will never notice the difference in and you'll likely just get ripped off with fake chips that either don't work or provide half the delay time, if you must use them, I suggest you buy some of Smallbears Fake 3005s ($14.95 a pair I think?) which are actually relabelled 3008s and use 4 of them with doubling boards.

Any 3005s left in existance should really be saved for repairs of original effects pedals, not used in new pedals, the new chips are just as good and wont set you back nearly as much money.

The only thing the 3005 has over the 3205 is a higher headroom so it wont clip as soon, but as this is analog delay i'd just forget it, you'll get more variation due to the overall parts than two single ICs.

[tenwatt]

Caps
1uF, 2.2uF, 10uF are all standard values, should be able to get them in voltages from 16V up, fine for the 3205 version. 3005 you may want 25V rated caps (although really anywhere post the Voltage regulator should be fine with 16V, no harm in being cautious though with higher ratings).

At Mammoth I can only find them in 50V.  I was affraid they would be too big.

[gtr2]

What country are you located in?  There are far cheaper places to get your caps!

Josh

[tenwatt]

I'm in the U.S.

[gtr2]

Same cap....mammoth doesn't give specs but the cap is 5mm diam x 11mm length

http://www.mammothelectronics.com/Nichicon-50-Volt-Electrolytic-Capacitors-p/301-a-50v.htm

$0.45

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UKW1H010MDD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22e0BBN1kF1oiF6LRZJxQnLs%3d

$0.09

Non audio grade, but ok

http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-1730/1UF-50V-105C-CAPACITOR/Detail

$0.02

These are just examples.  Mammoth is ok but there are better deals on caps and such.

Josh

[nzCdog]

I vote Tayda.  Good prices good service

[gtr2]

You do need to be careful with Tayda though...

Unless you have something to measure capacitance I would recommend another supplier.  For something as complex as the dirtbag you want to make sure your parts are close to spec.  Some of what I've gotten from Tayda is not.  I use Tayda and it's good and cheap but you need to be aware that some of the stuff utilizes every bit of the Tolerance 

Josh

[irmcdermott]

You do need to be careful with Tayda though...

Unless you have something to measure capacitance I would recommend another supplier.  For something as complex as the dirtbag you want to make sure your parts are close to spec.  Some of what I've gotten from Tayda is not.  I use Tayda and it's good and cheap but you need to be aware that some of the stuff utilizes every bit of the Tolerance 

Josh

This is a good bit of advice, not only for Tayda, but for every supplier. I've gotten into the habit of measuring everything just to make sure I grabbed the right part, and marking up my schematic/layout paper so I know I tested that part. Takes minimal extra time while your building, but can save you time in the end if you need to go back and check values. Plus, you will come across bad components every now and then, regardless of the supplier.

[Scruffie]

For something as complex as the dirtbag you want to make sure your parts are close to spec.

Why? I doubt EHX ever did, the original used early ceramic & mylar caps and still even had some carbon comp resistors in the odd one, hardly tight spec components.

Tollerances don't add up through a circuit.

The only place spec is important is listed on the factory schematic, the 240pF Clock cap should be 5% the 2 x 4.7uF Electros in the LFO should be 10% and a handfull of resistors and caps in the audio path.

And even with those specs... I bet they didn't actually keep to most of them.

[sgmezei]

Being a noobish person I only have a Multimeter.
What is a good, reasonably priced next instrument?
Like to measure capacitance and perhaps some other values we might run across.

[irmcdermott]

I only can recommend what I have used, and while I was in Hong Kong for work, I stopped by a big electronics store and stocked up ($0.30 Alpha pots FTW!).

While there I bought this for a decent price ~$30 (and I love it. It measures Capacitance, Resistance, and Inductance. It's got a diode/continuity buzzer, and tests transistors. The only thing that is doesn't do that I wish it did is measure Voltage, but I have my original, cheap RadioShack meter that does that, so it really isn't a big deal.

I've seen the UT603 online in the USA anywhere from $25-$41. But that is just what I have, there may be something out there that is WAY better.

Ian

[Haberdasher]

I've been wanting to get one of these.  I once talked to a fellow diy'er (I think it was Chris) who gave it 2 thumbs up.

[gtr2]

For something as complex as the dirtbag you want to make sure your parts are close to spec.

Why? I doubt EHX ever did, the original used early ceramic & mylar caps and still even had some carbon comp resistors in the odd one, hardly tight spec components.

Tollerances don't add up through a circuit.

The only place spec is important is listed on the factory schematic, the 240pF Clock cap should be 5% the 2 x 4.7uF Electros in the LFO should be 10% and a handfull of resistors and caps in the audio path.

And even with those specs... I bet they didn't actually keep to most of them.

Well then...I guess I have better quality control than EHX 

[gtr2]

I've been wanting to get one of these.  I once talked to a fellow diy'er (I think it was Chris) who gave it 2 thumbs up.

I use one of these too.  Easy build and it works well, it would be better if it was easier to stick in some sort of enclosure.  It's saved me a few times from wrongly marked caps.  The caps were labeled on the bag wrong and you couldn't read the microprint well