Freaking waterslides!!!

[keysandguitars]

lol, just tried my hand at watersides. I guess I let the first one soak too long, even though I was following the instructions and it rolled up onto itself. Second time's the charm I guess. As soon as the edge lifted, maybe 15 seconds in the water, I slid it on.

I used the papilio inkjet kit. Minus my own error, the graphics printed very vivid and sharp and did not run at all in the water after letting their fixative sit for 8 hours. Hopefully, I'll have a post in the build report soon.

Sorry, just had to vent. You guys make all this look so freaking easy!

[nzCdog]

Haha.  They are fiddly... I use toothpicks to move'em round on the pedal cause they stick to the tweezers!
Lookin forward to seeing that build report

[Jamiroking]

I finally printed out my decal designs that I've been putting off for about a year. Only after I cut them out and tried to apply one dodd I realize that there was a protective later over the actual decal. So now I have a bunch of designs printed on this protective wax paper and a bunch of cut up pieces of decal paper. And of course, I can't find this stuff in any store so I had to order more from small bear......

[TNblueshawk]

Yeah, they can be a pain. Couple thoughts. All you need is 30 seconds. They always roll up so don't woory. Just let it do its thing. Do NOT try to unroll in the water. You will crack the lacquer before it softens. I never use tweezers or anything but my fingers to move it. I take a paintbrush and while the decal is soaking I paint water on the pedal. When i slide that decal on there I wet my 2 fingers that are holding it down so they don't stick to the decal. I sort of walk my fingers along as I pull out the backing. A key I've found on this is I like to sort of keep the decal moving until I'm ready to line up, ie I got the backing completely off. I found that doing this allows me the ability to move the decal freely before it wants to stick.

Anyway I then wait about 1 minute once I line it up correctly and then I begin the debubble process. I again wet 2 fingers to hold the decal down, And use an eyeglass cleaner to work the bubbles out on one half. I then wet my fingers again and do the other half. At this point and being careful the decal should not move again as you finish getting the bubbles out. Some folks at BYOC use a decal squeegee but I could never get on with it.

Papilio make a decal applier if you want to buy. Allows that decal to slide easily. I have some but have not had to use it. The clear back decals are much harder than white back. The white backing ones are a piece of cake because they are thicker.....which of course is the down side, but I like dark colors so I still use them.

I finish up the process after debubbling with Microsol around the edge of the decal. I then wait overnight to cut the holes out and then I brush the Microsol on around the holes so it melts real good around the holes. Then Envirotex here I come 

[gtr2]

Water slides can be um...fun

I don't let mine soak long.  Around 15 seconds or I find it makes the decals I use get to soft.  When I place it in the shallow water I hold the edges down with two fingers on each edge.  You only need to do this when you place it in, don't hold them there.  It will stop the rolling up problem.  I don't like to let them roll, I always keep the decal flat.

I personally don't put water on the enclosure because it encourages bubbles underneath. I place the edge of the waterslide where it needs to start and gently slide the backing off while letting the waterslide "suck" into place.  It takes very little movement, just don't rest the paper backing on the enclosure when you slide.  It will take to much pressure to pull off the waterslide in place and you'll stretch the decal, rendering it useless.  With practice you can get it right every time.

Large full face clear decals are the hardest.  This was my hardest http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1553.0

Josh

[keysandguitars]

Thanks guys. I was able to get a good result using a mix of your techniques mentioned. I clear coated it last night..first time for that as well. I went to heavy with the clear and it shows. The decal looks like it faded or yellow a bit too. For a first run on a full face decal on a 1590BB, I guess I can't complain too much, but you know how it goes. From 6'2" away on the floor, it looks pretty sweet.

[TNblueshawk]

Congrat's key.

Yeah, you will develop your own technique as to what you like or how you like to do it.

While I do agree if you put water on the pedal you will get more bubbles, I don't have any trouble getting them out at all. I found the down side to me not doing this was the decal would stick on me so I'd rather get a few more bubbles out. So you will see which works best for you but once you get it down it is really not tough.

And plus one on the stretch thing mentioned. Been there done that. That is actually why I use the technique of when pulling the backing off I walk my fingers along the decal as I'm pulling the backing so I don't put the same amount of finger pressure where I'm holding down the decal in that one spot.

Not sure how you nip the corners so they round with the edge of the pedal but you can use finger nail clippers which are usually rounded or just free hand it. For white back decals this is a little more important though.

[keysandguitars]

I really screwed up rounding the corners...a bummer, but it can only get better...I hope. Here's a pic. I'm not sure how to prevent yellowing. It isn't bad, but it definitely lost its deep black it had before going into the oven.

[jimmybjj]

looks darn good to me. Why are you putting it in the over? Are they bake on decals?  A lot of clears (especially when they are put on heavy) are going to yellow over time especially over a white background, the oven will likely speed that process.

[keysandguitars]

Jimmy, thanks. I'm powder coating the base color and clear coats.. Sorry I didn't specify

[jimmybjj]

Thats, right did your new gun from EW leak? I don't know about the black, or the white either to be honest. You probably already noticed this but most clears cure at a lower temp than normal colored powders, curing at the higher temp could be a cause of yellowing. I also think your right about putting a thinner coat of clear will reduce yellowing some. I don't think it makes a difference, i am just curious but did you put the clear on while the pedal was hot (hot flocking) or while the pedal was cold.

[nzCdog]

Whoa that looks cool! Nice job, can't see any problems from this angle 

[keysandguitars]

I didn't give the new gun a chance to leak, I hot glued the hell out of it right when I opened the box. Why not, right?

I did cure at 375 using the Columbia super clear gloss. I doubled a piece of foil on the top rack to try and deflect some heat. I'll try it at 350 next time. The clear went on cold as I had just put the decal on. Also, i tried using the screws in the enclosure instead of my other tried and true rig, an aluminum electrical box. I just clamped the grounding clip to the screw which didn't really do the job, or so I'm guessing. Sitting the enclosure on the electrical box really and clipping the clip to that really seems to pull the powder nicely.

I just finished my first dormant, it turned out sweet! I wish I didn't have to wait so long for decals to clear and dry...oh well. I'll have some postings in the build forum in a few days. Thanks for all the input and feedback guys.

[TNblueshawk]

Looks great key. I don't get yellowing so that may have something to do with the baking. I also don't know what kind of lacquer sealer you are using on the decal, maybe that could be it?

Anyway, lookin' good.

[keysandguitars]

TN- it could have been the sealer. I used the Papilio kit that comes with the 2oz bottle of fixative and mounting fluid. I poured the fixative on the decal and just tilted the paper back and forth to distribute the fluid. I'm guessing it went on too thick.