2 drive pedals in 1 box?

[jasonphilly77]

So I'd like to rehouse 2 of my previous pedal builds into 1 box if possible. I have the Madbean Ego Driver V4 and a General Guitar Gadgets Klondike. I'd like to have the Ego Driver (true bypass) first, followed by the Klondike which has an always on buffer in the circuit. No desire for an "order changing switch".

If I could wire these into one enclosure I'd be super happy! Hoping to save space on my board, cables and free up another power outlet on my power supply. Can I wire them in series, each having it's own on/off switch but using a shared power jack in one enclosure? I've been assuming that I could simply connect the output wire from the Ego Driver circuit to the input of the Klondike circuit, and then connect both red wires and black wires to the same power jack.

Then I ran across a post or 2 that mentioned a need for "decoupling" and gave me pause. So I'm reaching out here for advice and clarification if possible.

I found this diagram but the 2 foot switches in it are wired very differently from the way each of my individual pedals are now. Should I just rewire them to match this diagram? Is this "decoupled"?

Any help would be MUCH appreciated!

Peace

[HamSandwich]

Wires is wires.

The difference between the 1/4" cable connecting signal to each circuit is no different than hard wiring up the input of the second circuit to the output of the first. Same with the power - if you're using a non-isolated daisy chain for power, daisy chaining them with the external wire is naught different than doing it internally.

If you were using two isolated power supplies for each pedal, then you would be changing the way power is supplied.

There are many methods of true bypass wiring - grounding the input or output, where the LED gets grounded, etc. You can use whatever way works best for you. The wiring in your picture may be different than what you do, but it accomplishes the same task of turning the pedal on and off. So you can disregard how the pedal is wired, but keep where the signals connect together.

Not sure what the decoupling stuff you are mentioning is. Linking to where you got that information would be helpful. Perhaps they are talking about separate filters on the power supply. If each of your circuits already has these built in, then there's no point at adding extra ones at the point of where the power enters the pedal.

[jasonphilly77]

Thanks HamSandwich! I'm using a Voo Doo Labs PP2+ for power supply. It has isolated outputs.

Here is the mention of decoupling I was referring to. https://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/guitar/acapella-29/1760944-

[jasonphilly77]

Basically going fro something like JHS Double Barrel withOUT the order changing toggle switch.

[HamSandwich]

Lol that's me in that thread too. H.R Shove and Stuff. A poster goes on to explain what decoupling is in that thread. Can you link to the schematics you have? Often times that power isolation is built into the circuit, which is what I was talking about in my last post.

If you're using two isolated power supplies from your PP2+ to power each of these pedals, putting them in the same box will now only utilize one of the outputs of the PP2+, so you'll be loosing any benefits of keeping the power supplies isolated by doing what you want to do. There may be no benefits at all from it to begin with.

[HamSandwich]

I got less lazy and looked up your circuits. I can't seem to find the egodriver V4 just this one in etchers paradise:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/EP/schematics/EgoDriver.gif

You can see R12 and C9/10 forming the resistor and cap 'decoupling'.

The Klondike doesn't have the series resistance, but does have the cap to ground. If you take a look at Madbean's Klon Clone, you can see he has a 22 ohm resistor in series and a 100u cap.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/DistBoostOD/schematics/Kingslayer.gif

If it concerns you, put a 22-100R resistor in series between the 9V adapter and power input to the GGG circuit. The Egodriver won't need this as its already on board.

[jasonphilly77]

Ha that's awesome!!! Thanks again. I don't understand schematics unfortunately. I just follow the parts lists, directions and layouts for the kits I've built so far.

You're right though, I hope to use just ONE of the outputs (they just happen to all be isolated) on my PP2+ to power this 2 in 1. IF I'm able to internally daisy chain these 2 drive circuits somehow. You know, safely, so they sound alright and I don't get electrocuted.  

[HamSandwich]

Looking at the layouts won't tell you as quickly or as effectively as looking at the schematic. The layout might even make it more confusing. Take a look at the EgoDriver schematic and find the 9V power in. Notice how R12 separates the incoming 9V from the rest of the circuit, and the capacitors right after it to ground. They are a little sub circuit called a low pass filter.

There is very little danger in wiring them up as you planned. You'd have to try real hard to electrocute yourself and there's a pretty good chance they will sound alright. Putting a 22-100R resistor between the 9V and the power input of the Klondike would be an added safety measure, but it may not be needed.

[Willybomb]

I've done decoupling on a couple of builds using the attached schematic.  In all honesty, I'm note sure it makes that much of a difference.  I do it for most of my multi builds (some pics attached where it's clear to see), but there are a few instances where the effect just doesn't like it and needs to be attached directly to the 9v jack - the one knob version of the  Rubadub needs this.

Sometimes I will just put a 100r to a 100uf going to ground off the jack and that seems to be enough, but that's just anecdotal.  One build that was noisy and benefited from doing that was Random Stranger, but that thing has spaghetti for guts.

[jasonphilly77]

Thank you HamSandwich. I'll give it a shot and add the resistors for good measure. Appreciate the help!

Willybomb, thanks for the pics.

I'll take a crack at this soon.