Rangemaster - No sound

[bamadan5]

Howdy folks. So, this is my first madbean build and, since I've only built about 3 pedals, I'm still a good bit new at this.

FWIW, I'm posting this over on the BYOC forum as well. Maybe someone can help.

Anyway, here's my issue. I know it must be something basic, but I'm stumped. I get no sound in bypass, or when the pedal is on. Also, when the pedal is engaged, the LED doesn't light up or anything either.

I'm trying to use the Road Rage board so I can use a power supply, and haven't installed the battery adapter. I know that can't effect the bypass signal, but I'm throwing that out there as I'm sure, even when I get a bypass signal, that I'll get nothing when the pedal is actually on.

Anyway, here are pics. ANY help is appreciated.

[jkokura]

First thing to do is measure the power readings to the Road rage board, and then from the road rage board to the Rangemaster.  Also, you need C4 to be installed on the Road Rage board and I don't think you have it in there...

Jacob

[bamadan5]

Ok,

I'm an idiot.... must've had my in/out cords swapped.. I get a bypass sound now. However, no sound when the pedal is engaged. I get a loud POP when turning it on, but no sound and no LED.

[bamadan5]

C4 is installed on the road rage. I'm only missing C1, C6, and C2. It might be hard to see, but it's there.
I"ve used the road rage on 2 Tonebenders already, and I've wired it the same way, I believe. No issues with those.

[jkokura]

Still need your voltages going into and out of the Road Rage...

Jacob

[bamadan5]

Just did a check. I'm getting about 9.4v coming off the road rage. Same reading when checking the 9v pad on the pcb.

[madbean]

9.4 or -9.4?

[bamadan5]

-9.4v

[mgwhit]

Can you please test continuity from the ground plane of your board to the star ground point in your wiring with the effect switched off and on?  Also, some shots of the solder/trace side of the board might help.

[bamadan5]

No issues with continuity from the board ground to grounding point on either the center of the switch or sleeve of the input jack.

Bottom shots for your viewing pleasure.

[mgwhit]

Looks like there might be a solder bridge to ground from the R3 pad closest to R1.

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

Looks like there might be a solder bridge to ground from the R3 pad closest to R1.

It does look like that glob of solder is bridging to ground. It also looks like a few points on the row at the bottom are touching. Could be the pictures its hard to tell. You might wanna use a bit less solder and make sure its bonding with the pad making a solid connection, not balling up and sitting on top. The rest of the joints look pretty solid to me.

[mgwhit]

The pads that are touching in the upper right of that bottom photograph are fine -- they're all on the same trace.

[gtr2]

You could have a bad joint.  Before soldering up an etched board, it should be cleaned and buffed.  I use a scotch brite pad and lightly scuff the board then I'll clean it with acetone.  It really helps the solder melt onto the copper.  I can tell from your joints that you are not getting good adhesion to the board.  They should be like a Hershey kiss not a chocolate ball. 

Josh

[bamadan5]

I'm not sure I follow you on the solder bridge to ground. I've attached a pic (sorry, can't upload pics here at work.....), and circled two "globs" where I'm thinking you may be referring to.
I was assuming that these the two pads within each circle were ok if they were touching, but maybe I'm wrong.
I had a hard time getting those four to solder without 2 of them touching. I do have a desoldering iron, and I'll try to re do the 4 of them.
Would that be something that would cause the LED to not light up, for the circuit to not work, and also for the pedal to "POP" when turned on? Sorry, just trying to learn why things are causing issues rather than just fixing them.

Thanks for the help thus far!