because you needed another klon/not klon clone

[Ekimneets]

I will spare you the details, I'm not going to impress anyone around here.

I do think I was successful in making the most expensive to manufacture Klone ever.

I also think if it has problems I'm up the creek, I left myself no wiggle room with the wiring whatsoever.

Graphics are a little busy too, but better than my normal labelmaker graphics.

Enough dogging on myself, it sounds great.

I obviously don't have a Centaur to compare it too, but I've listened a lot on YT and this is grittier, in a good way, for the last 1/2 to 1/3 of the pot.

[gordo]

You're too hard on yourself.  From where I sit it's a very impressive build inside and out.  Very clean and that finish is superb.  Very nicely done!

[Ekimneets]

Thank you Gordo, I pride myself that the inside looks as good as the outside.

And I agree, I'm pretty hard on myself, but I stand by the fact that is is the most expensive to make!

That's what happens when you overkill even when it's won't make a difference.

-M

[EBK]

I'm not going to impress anyone around here.

You've failed to not impress me.   
I like the style of those graphics.  It's got a sort of patent medicine or almanac feel.  Nice neat wiring too.  I like it, inside and out (you could use just a tad of flux cleanup, if you'll endulge me in a bit of nitpicking).

[pickdropper]

It's a beautiful build.  Very well executed.

What makes it the most expensive build, though?  Wima film caps and Nichicon electrolytics?

[Ekimneets]

thanks guys.

pIckdropper, it's Xicon 1% MFR, Most of the Box caps are 5%, Nichicon electrolytic, Mill-Max Gold plated IC sockets(pins too), TI and microchip IC's (I don't do China, no offense to anyone), MLCC's are C0G class I, Tantalum and  diodes except for the clipping diodes, the others are from Mouser (not Tayda), Switchcraft guitar jacks, Kobicon DC jacks, Alpha Pots and then there are the clipping diodes.

i had some misconceptions early on in my R&D and luckily some members of this forum set me straight. I ended up socketing many dozens of diodes. I sourced them from most US manufacturers and also got vintage stuff from Russia and Bulgaria and current stuff from Thailand. I listened a lot and took a lot of notes. I finally found one that sounded right to me.

For a sane person that would have been it. Not me. I wanted to match the original spec of 0.35v. I decided to keep all of the diodes to +/- 0.03v. I buy them 100-200 at a time and hand test each and everyone of them. Less than 10% make the cut.

Thats why its so darned expensive to make.

-M

[Ekimneets]

Hey EBK,

What's the best way to do that?

-Mike

[pickdropper]

thanks guys.

pIckdropper, it's Xicon 1% MFR, Most of the Box caps are 5%, Nichicon electrolytic, Mill-Max Gold plated IC sockets(pins too), TI and microchip IC's (I don't do China, no offense to anyone), MLCC's are C0G class I, Tantalum and  diodes except for the clipping diodes, the others are from Mouser (not Tayda), Switchcraft guitar jacks, Kobicon DC jacks, Alpha Pots and then there are the clipping diodes.

i had some misconceptions early on in my R&D and luckily some members of this forum set me straight. I ended up socketing many dozens of diodes. I sourced them from most US manufacturers and also got vintage stuff from Russia and Bulgaria and current stuff from Thailand. I listened a lot and took a lot of notes. I finally found one that sounded right to me.

For a sane person that would have been it. Not me. I wanted to match the original spec of 0.35v. I decided to keep all of the diodes to +/- 0.03v. I buy them 100-200 at a time and hand test each and everyone of them. Less than 10% make the cut.

Thats why its so darned expensive to make.

-M

Well, you and I function similarly.  I generally source components from the tier 1 distributors (mainly mouser, digikey, arrow, Newark, etc) and try to avoid Tayda for just about everything.  In fact, I use just about everything you listed on a regular basis.  It's just a better way to build, IMHO.  That said, it's still mostly China made parts, just vetted ones.

That said, it really doesn't add THAT much cost to get good caps, resistors and ICs, unless one buys them one at a time.  I find things like caps and resistors aren't much different in quantities of 100 or so.  The main savings comes from buying cheap hardware,  it it's worth it to buy decent stuff, IMHO.

[Ekimneets]

Yes I've definitely learned about economies of scale and I try and buy 10 or 100 or 200 at a time. My problem is just that I have run out of money before I've had my first sale.

I love making a Pedals but my business acumen and planning definitely leave something to be desired.




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[pickdropper]

Yes I've definitely learned about economies of scale and I try and buy 10 or 100 or 200 at a time. My problem is just that I have run out of money before I've had my first sale.

I love making a Pedals but my business acumen and planning definitely leave something to be desired.




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Try not to get discouraged.  It's a tough industry.  The market is basically saturated at this point and it's tough to get recognized.  Hopefully your efforts will be rewarded in time.

[Ekimneets]

I've also had a steep learning curve and have such a long way to go.

In my previous career I had vast knowledge, wide and deep and instant recall.

Now I am working from a very narrow focus and almost want to just back off and sort of a geek out in the forums and just absorb stuff


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[Ekimneets]

Thanks encouragement helps a lot


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[EBK]

Hey EBK,

What's the best way to do that?

-Mike

Flux cleanup?  I use cotton swabs and alcohol.  Of course, you'll shed some cotton onto the board, but that is easy enough to pick off.

[Ekimneets]

Thanks that was something that actually was bothering me I just was blissfully unaware of exactly what it was and how to fix it. Thanks for the education


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[pickdropper]

Hey EBK,

What's the best way to do that?

-Mike

Flux cleanup?  I use cotton swabs and alcohol.  Of course, you'll shed some cotton onto the board, but that is easy enough to pick off.

Flux remover works best of all, but needs proper ventilation.  If using isopropanol, make sure it's high purity (at least 90%+).