Soft touch Weener. And it glows in the dark, many knobs to fiddle with.

[cooder]

Here's the soft touch Weener that has the blue lights down low...
(I don't think this thread has much chance of getting off the slippery slope... so I might just run with the pun...)





I have been attached to this Weener for awhile now 

So to try to be a bit more serious I have built this about 4 years ago, can't remember if I've posted a build report back then, I don't think so.
Anyway, sounds great and as said I'm attached to it and it is a permanent fixture on my board.
The one thing that kept bugging me is the switch on the wah, the original wah switch gave in at some point, I replaced it with a blue 3PDT which worked ok but was a bit noisy with the click when it touches the treadle and it never felt quite right or smooth operator like. I just don't like the stiffness and mechanical noise that the switches make, it's too obvious at bedroom sound levels and even if at higher band practice and jam levels you don't notice I kept thinking there must be a way to get a soft touch relay switch in there.
So I hacked a mini momentary switch in there which drives a 1776 fx relay switching pcb (I dig those, they work great).
And as I'm on a 'fun with acrylic' trip at the moment I made a light fixing for the front to make the LED more obvious as well as light plate underneath. Because why not.

The acrylic helps also to protect the mini switch from impact from the front if some stuff, cables or so, would come between the treadle and enclosure. Mini switch is held in place with epoxy.

It works great and smooth as, very pleased with the update of the ol' sausage...

You can see the switch in photo here:



Gutshot:



More low light action:





Here's the acrylic piece I made and polished for the front of wah:



LED glued in with clear epoxy. It's not often that you can drill into a material and you can see in real time how deep you go...

[alanp]

Daaayum.

[Willybomb]

I hate it when I step on my weener.

[mjg]

That is a beautiful weener.   Nicely polished. 

[jimilee]

That's very cool. Just keep raising the bar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zgrav]

Nice lighting effect, and a funny name that sounds like it needs a dongle.....  : ^ )

[midwayfair]

Re the soft switch: I would be worried that if I got too excited and pressed my weener too far forward that it would unexpectedly go off. Do you mostly play around the base (heel down)?

[Adam_DIY]

That looks fantastic what do you use to polish the acrylic?

[cooder]

That is a beautiful weener.   Nicely polished.

Exactly what Ms Cooder keeps sayin'... 

Re the soft switch: I would be worried that if I got too excited and pressed my weener too far forward that it would unexpectedly go off. Do you mostly play around the base (heel down)?

Yes I was considering that as well when I thought about implementing it. I do play the whole range of treadle and wild enough without being rough. So there needs to be a firm difference between wiggling the treadle and switching and there is. It needs a definite firm step down on front to switch and the way it worked for me is this:
when I glued the switch in I had the treadle squeezed fully down with a F clamp, mimicking a firm bit of pressure as far as the rubber grommets would let it go down. That equals a firm step with a bit of body weight forward, not just your normal wiggle. Once the epoxy had set that turned out to be the exact position that the switch needed to be for me.
Of course this was something that I simply had to try and it works great so far. If it would have been too sensitive I would have needed to grind out the glue and switch (which would have demolished the switch) and put a new one in at a corrected distance, trialing again. But as said, squeezing down the treadle with a clamp did the job great for me. I have been using it now for a few days and it works great.
Really added some extra satisfaction to spending time now with the ol' weener ....bahahaha...

That looks fantastic what do you use to polish the acrylic?

Sanded it with 120/240/400 grit and then use a jewelers style buffing wheel with some stainless steel polishing compound. Buffing wheel is mounted on a bench grinder. That works very efficient, however you should be able to get it similarly shiny by sanding through more grits up to 1200 or 1500 and then hand polish with a cotton rag and some metal type polish paste (as used for silver cutlery) or made some scratch'n buff as used on car paint to buff it up.

[madbean]

Fattest Weener I have seen yet. Keep this one in mind for the BOTY contest at the end of 2018. Great work!

[cooder]

Thanks! Glad you guys dig the ol' sausage...