Wasabi / Shin Music Dumbloid content, unicorns and stardust.

[cooder]

Clone of Shin Music Dumbloid.
One of those pedals that chases the unicorn and stardust tone of a Dumble amp and it does sound good, me like it.
Obviously in a similar ballpark to the Zendrive, has a unique feel and vocal quality to it though.





Built on a pedalpcb.com board, came together just peachy. BuGG does some nice pcbs there, enormous output on his site, kudos. My paypal account hates it though...



Relay bypass from 1776 effects, working great for me.
Acrylic faceplate over laser decal.

[Adam_DIY]

Love that it's really cool looking.

Can I ask how you do the faceplates?  Last time I tried one I made a right mess and drilled the holes in the plate slightly off from the holes in the enclosure.

[cooder]

Love that it's really cool looking.

Can I ask how you do the faceplates?  Last time I tried one I made a right mess and drilled the holes in the plate slightly off from the holes in the enclosure.

Cheers. I first drill all the holes in box and also add the 4 3mm tapped screw holes in corners to hold the faceplate. Then I cut the acrylic slightly oversized to box face so that I can sand down any chips that I get in acrylic as I cut it on table saw. I drill the 4 holes in corner with a dremel in acrylic and screw it right onto the box that way, doesn't move around when I then sand down the overhang and also do the holes in acrylic.
I sand down the overhang with a beltsander, the box gets some scratches that way, so you certainly wouldn't want to do that when you box is powder coated or painted already. Mine are bare alu at that stage.
Then I open the holes in acrylic again with a small dremel bits and widen them gradually to size, guided by the box holes as the acrylicx sits on top, if that makes sense. I found if i drill the acrylic with a normal drill bit it can break at times and it would be harder to get a good fit.
Then I remove the faceplate, fine sand the edges. the box gets sanded, first on beltsander, then on orbital sander 120 grit, that's the finish I like.
Dust off, laser decal on box, acrylic faceplate on top, screws in corners back in, done.
Ready to plonk circuit in.

[culturejam]

That's beautiful! Love the faceplates you've been doing.

[cooder]

That's beautiful! Love the faceplates you've been doing.

Cheers CJ! I scored a pile of acrylic different thicknesses odd size off cuts and other plastic stuff at an auction for 5 bucks, so gotta make use of that
It is indeed nice as I like it better than messing around with rattle can or envirotex. It has a similar effect to envirotex, but I can remove it if necessary and it's not so messy to use. And cheaper, especially as an auction bargain. But even if you buy it at a plastic workshop place it's not too expensive and you could ask for having a look through their bin for off cuts.
The thickness I'm using on pedals is 1.5mm.

[culturejam]

Have you considered just using the hardware nuts to secure the acrylic, rather than also having corner screws? I'm lazy, so I'd probably go that route. 

[cooder]

Have you considered just using the hardware nuts to secure the acrylic, rather than also having corner screws? I'm lazy, so I'd probably go that route. 

Yep absolutely indeed I did that on my first one with acrylic faceplate here
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27872.msg269844#msg269844
works just fine too.
The screws are not really necessary, they just hold the flexible acrylic a bit more secure down at corners especially when the footswitch is in the centre of a 125B, so hole is not really close to edge. And I like the look of those screws, I don't mind drilling and tapping the extra holes.
So I wi;ll probably keep doing it with screws. But as you say you could also secure it with hardware holes while working on it.