WIMA caps at Tayda?

[vizcities]

Have any of you bought these? Are they real WIMA caps? And are they within spec?

[mremic01]

I just got some 100nFs from them. Of the few I tested, they came in between 99.3-100nF. The bodies look well formed, but the print on them is a bit blurry and silver. I've only seen WIMAs with white print. It wouldn't surprise me if they're fake, some other brand re-screened, but they seem to be otherwise good film caps.

[alanp]

They could possibly be wima seconds? Caps that passed electrical QA, but not cosmetic QA?

[matmosphere]

Does it matter all that much as long as they are in spec?

[pickdropper]

To me, the real question is: why buy 100n caps that may or may not be Wima for 17 cents from Tayda when you can buy known real Wima 100n caps from Mouser for 14 cents?  And that's in quantities of 1; they are less at Mouser if you buy 10 or 100.

[matmosphere]

That is a very great good question.

[kevinrae]

Well I just bought (50) 10n Wima caps from tayda for $.16/ea as they were 5% tolerance and smaller size than the least expensive Wima caps from Mouser.  For the same price at Mouser I needed to move up to a bigger physical size and/or higher tolerance (10-20%).  When I ran the numbers yesterday, the 10n caps were the only values that seemed to be a better deal at Tayda.  Otherwise Mouser is the less expensive source (for the physical dimensions & tolerance I wanted).  Anyway, the devil is in the details.  And hopefully the caps will be up to spec... 

[jubal81]

Tayda sells scrap and fakes. One thing to use them in your own builds, but IMHO using their parts in stuff for sale would be unscrupulous.


New basic polyester WIMAs at Mouser are among the cheapest options. Just ordered a bunch myself.

[kevinrae]

Fair enough.  I'm only building for personal use.  And aside from some PT2399s, and some knobs, I haven't really had a problem with sourcing components from Tayda.  Nevertheless it is hard to ignore the consensus from the higher volume builders/posters on here that Tayda can be suspect.  I'm sure there is a reason that the 'pros' are moving away from Tayda.  QA time for verifying parts are in spec/working isn't free...

[matmosphere]

In my opinion if you are making a pedal to sell on a smaller scale, like most of us would, then using parts that are unquestionably decent quality is the only thing that makes sense.

I haven't had any tayda parts fail on me but if something fails on a person build it's no biggie I just fix it. If something fails on a customers build it's a lot more trouble and it doesn't look good for the builder.

[peAk]

To me, the real question is: why buy 100n caps that may or may not be Wima for 17 cents from Tayda when you can buy known real Wima 100n caps from Mouser for 14 cents?  And that's in quantities of 1; they are less at Mouser if you buy 10 or 100.

micdropper

[culturejam]

micdropper

[vizcities]

Hmmm... sounds like it's not really worth buying them. It's funny, because I'm totally fine with their cheapo box caps (and resistors, LEDs, and common diodes) when it comes to builds where a super-tight tolerance isn't required; I just had a vague feeling Tayda was trying to sucker people into spending a few more nickels using WIMA's reputation.

[Leevibe]

Tayda sells scrap and fakes. One thing to use them in your own builds, but IMHO using their parts in stuff for sale would be unscrupulous.


New basic polyester WIMAs at Mouser are among the cheapest options. Just ordered a bunch myself.

This ^^^  and caps have lots of specs. Even on Mouser it can be tough to compare apples to apples. Only way to be safe is to pore over the data sheets.

[neandrewthal]

In my opinion if you are making a pedal to sell on a smaller scale, like most of us would, then using parts that are unquestionably decent quality is the only thing that makes sense.

I haven't had any tayda parts fail on me but if something fails on a person build it's no biggie I just fix it. If something fails on a customers build it's a lot more trouble and it doesn't look good for the builder.

Has anyone actually had a cap or a resistor work and then "fail"?

I have had TONS of ICs not work off the bat though. Don't know if I bought junk ones or just mishandled them but I've had so many broken builds that were fixed by just swapping the ICs that it's one of the first things I'll do while troubleshooting.