Dimension-C in a 1590B

[EBK]

Like I said the body is directly on the bottom of the enclosure.

I really appreciate that detail, as it will be the same in my build.  Thank you.   

Incidentally, my switches appear to be 8.89mm as well.  Maybe I read the wrong spec sheet (I didnt measure before).

[EBK]

By the way, what is this enclosure for.  Whatever it is, it looks awe-inspiring. 

[neandrewthal]

In the build docs for the aion Blueshift (Dimension-C clone), Kevin provides the following advice, almost as a warning:

4.  YOU'VE GOT TO BUILD IT  AS IT WAS INTENDED:  I approached the project as though I was designing a completed product for market. Everything has been designed to be built using methods you'd see in a high-end pedal (for instance, PCB-mounted switches, a standoff for mounting stability, and components with specific sizes and characteristics).... We all build pedals in our own style, but with this one, if you try to "freestyle" by doing your own enclosure layout or using parts other than the ones specified, you might back yourself into a corner. Please do things my way—you'll end up with a very professional and durable end product and you might even learn a few things in the process!

The fact that I've decided to largely ignore this advice should not be viewed as any form of disrespect for Kevin, his design, or any of you who have already posted builds of this circuit.   
Instead, think of this as evidence that I really like 1590B enclosures and I'm possibly insane.   

That`s ok. He told me not to build the Cerulean with a 4 pole switch to change it from a Bluesbreaker to a Morning Glory (In the same enclosure as a cirrus with a rotary switch for all the different signal path options and a toggle for different filter slopes) and I ignored him. I don`t think he`s offended. I`m sure he understands some of us are just crazy 

[BrianS]

By the way, what is this enclosure for.  Whatever it is, it looks awe-inspiring. 

Its a Sagan delay with a Grind Custom PLFO added.  Still can't get it going but haven't had a lot of time to troubleshoot it.  Its just been a real bad 30 days for building. 

[matmosphere]

Be careful with those switches. When I've tried in the past to use them without the internal nut they literally fell apart. The shaft and toggle broke of the base.

[EBK]

Be careful with those switches. When I've tried in the past to use them without the internal nut they literally fell apart. The shaft and toggle broke of the base.

Good to know.  Because of the way I modified the lid, I can probably fit an inside nut on the switches to hopefully prevent such a disaster.  I'll have to add some height to my standoff, of course, but I could simply add the same kind of nut to it.

With this extra wiggle room added, I'll recheck to see if the Switchcraft jacks could fit.

[EBK]

With a lower nut now on all the toggle switches, my new custom standoff height is 0.4600" (11.684mm).
How does that affect things?
The completed assembly now sticks up ever so slightly above the enclosure side walls.


Remember, this isn't a problem because of my lid modifications.  But, the good news for anyone considering something similar is that the 1590B2 is 7mm deeper than this, with the lap joint boss only sinking 2mm into the enclosure, meaning you could use one of those boxes without modifying the lid at all.  You would even have room for a slightly longer standoff, which would help sink those toggles down more (I'll have to do some more calculating to figure out how far they would stick up (if at all)).  A 1590BS (at 11mm deeper than a 1599B), would, of course, be even easier than a 1590B2.

And, now the enclosed Switchcraft jacks fit (a VERY close fit -- I had to reflow some solder to seat some caps closer to the board under them).


I actually prefer using these here, as it will make the task of marking out the drill holes a breeze.    And, if I needed to shield them, I could simply wrap them in copper tape.  In larger builds, I'll stick with open frame Switchcraft 11 though.

I'll be drilling soon, but I'll probably post another pic first, showing how all the jacks fit along with the stomp switch (they do fit, with room to spare).

[Max]

Man, you should change your nickname to Houdini...

[LaceSensor]

something about God, and his mother

[Luke51411]

Wow, incredible build. Love the progress pics.

[czapa tranzystor 2]

Hey bro I keep my fingers crossed 

[EBK]

Thanks for the encouragement, everyone!

I've accidentally made this a bit harder since my last update, but I'm still not worried (hovering around 95% confidence  ). As a shortcut, I used Kevin's drill template for the toggles and LED, adjusting only the width.  The consequence is that I've sacrificed a significant amount of wiggle room by shifting the board lower than I was planning.


However, upon test mounting the toggles, I think this will look better than if I had pushed it up as close as possible to the top.  This picture is pretty blurry....


I'll remeasure things tonight, hopefully, and start drilling for the jacks and stomp switch.

[EBK]

Switchcraft jacks are out, and the Lumberg jacks are back in.  I really didn't like the combination of the enclosed "box" of the Switchcraft jacks with the draft angle of the enclosure sides.  I would've had to file a bunch of plastic off to make them fit well. 

Here's a rough-in of the Lumberg jacks.  I still need to figure out the best orientation and walk them around a bit by gently widening the drill holes.  The size of the washer dictates how freely you can move a jack after drilling. 



The stomp switch is just hanging out there to show that it will fit.  And, yes, I am as shocked as you are to see that one completely unsoldered pin staring at us!  I left it there for the pic as a reminder of how easy it is to make a simple careless mistake.   

[Stomptown]

You'll probably be ok, but keep in mind the tip of the input jack is going to bend back towards the stompswitch when you insert a cable.  For that reason, you may want to mount the stomp switch as close to the bottom as possible.  Looks great btw!

[EBK]

You'll probably be ok, but keep in mind the tip of the input jack is going to bend back towards the stompswitch when you insert a cable.  For that reason, you may want to mount the stomp switch as close to the bottom as possible.  Looks great btw!

Thanks!  I see what you mean.  These jacks indeed have quite a sideways reach as the plug is being inserted.  I've tamed that a tiny bit with some pliers, and I've reached a workable placement.



Here it is from the outside. 



Almost there!

I need a smaller washer on that stomp switch.  This one slightly overhangs.