Dimension-C in a 1590B

[EBK]

In the build docs for the aion Blueshift (Dimension-C clone), Kevin provides the following advice, almost as a warning:

4.  YOU'VE GOT TO BUILD IT  AS IT WAS INTENDED:  I approached the project as though I was designing a completed product for market. Everything has been designed to be built using methods you'd see in a high-end pedal (for instance, PCB-mounted switches, a standoff for mounting stability, and components with specific sizes and characteristics).... We all build pedals in our own style, but with this one, if you try to "freestyle" by doing your own enclosure layout or using parts other than the ones specified, you might back yourself into a corner. Please do things my way—you'll end up with a very professional and durable end product and you might even learn a few things in the process!

The fact that I've decided to largely ignore this advice should not be viewed as any form of disrespect for Kevin, his design, or any of you who have already posted builds of this circuit.   
Instead, think of this as evidence that I really like 1590B enclosures and I'm possibly insane.   

This build isn't complete yet, but now that I'm 90% sure that it's going to work, I figured it would be a good time to show some of my progress.

I'll start with a bit of an angled shot of the assembled boards.
The green stuff is Theraputty (basically Silly Putty that you can buy in bulk at a reasonable price), which I've simply used to pose things for the camera. 

A few noteworthy details:
1) the switches will be mounted essentially flush with the board and the enclosure face, although they won't be soldered on place until mounted to the enclosure, of course.
2) The standoff I'm using is much shorter than spec'd. 
3) The jack I've shown (yes, there will still be 3 of them) is a Lumberg jack instead of an enclosed Switchcraft jack.

A bit about that spacer...
One thing I actually don't like about the stock design is that screw head in the middle of the enclosure face.  While it makes complete sense to have a spacer there for mechanical support, I've decided that I'm going to attach the screw head to the inside of the enclosure so it will be hidden from view.  I plan to use JB Weld for this.  The spacer I've come up with is made from pieces from my junk hardware collection.  I've filed down the threads and heads (I didn't mean for that to rhyme  ) of the bolts to make the spacer approx. 0.4 inches high and to clear the parts beneath.  A rather blurry shot of these pieces:


I already mentioned the Lumberg jacks.  I'm also going to use a lower profile stomp from Smallbear so it will more easily fit beneath the larger board.


From my measurements, the completed assembly will come up very close to being flush to the top of the enclosure's side walls, so I've modified the lid by grinding out the lap joint boss most of the way around.  Probably a bit of overkill, but it will make the rest easier.Edit: grinding this out allows to board assembly to come up slightly higher than the side walls, which should allow for an inside nut on each switch.


Here's a side view of the assembly mock-up from earlier.

[Zigcat]

You're crazy, man! Can't wait to see it crammed in there.

[Stomptown]

When I was reading through the build doc I was also thinking about ignoring his advice if/when I build one, however I was thinking of building it in a bigger enclosure. You sir are crazy! 

[Andlord]

Wow, did not expect that. Crazy

[alanp]

This should be good! It'll go together like a burr puzzle when you're done!

[EBK]

When I was reading through the build doc I was also thinking about ignoring his advice if/when I build one, however I was thinking of building it in a bigger enclosure. You sir are crazy! 

If you want something smaller than the 125B, but less crazy than this, a 1590BS would comfortably hold everything, probably without modification.  A 1590B2 could work too, but they are harder to procure.

One issue I will still have to work out is the excess bushings on all the switches that will stick out quite a bit (I didnt feel like spending nearly $10 per toggle for shorter bushings).  Tall dress nuts do exist with 1/4-40 UNS threading, so I'll probably end up with some of these someday.

[Boba7]

Thanks for all the gut shots!! You're crazy, I love it. Can't wait to see the finished build. Bravo!

[movinginslomo]

Total DIY'er mentality "I know how you DIYers are, but follow my directions exact or you'll have prob-" "PFFFFFFFF! I can totally make this work!!" 

[BrianS]

[/quote]

One issue I will still have to work out is the excess bushings on all the switches that will stick out quite a bit (I didnt feel like spending nearly $10 per toggle for shorter bushings).  Tall dress nuts do exist with 1/4-40 UNS threading, so I'll probably end up with some of these someday.

[/quote]

You have way to much patience and analytical skills?  You and Pickdropper must be in the same group as far as measuring geniuses.  Here's a link for some dress nuts at Arrow.  I bought some for mine just to "dress it up" but these are fairly big, like huge.    They were only .44 a piece and free shipping. 
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/702501201/ck


After your last vero pedal that you managed to get in a 1590 this should be a piece of cake for you.

[EBK]

Thanks for that link!  Do you have a pic of those on a finished build?

[BrianS]

No but I can put them on something and take a picture tomorrow for you. 

[EBK]

You have way to much patience and analytical skills?  You and Pickdropper must be in the same group as far as measuring geniuses.
....
After your last vero pedal that you managed to get in a 1590 this should be a piece of cake for you.

I owe a lot of credit to this tool:

At $40, it's paid for itself over and over again.

And, the more I build with 1590B enclosures, the larger they seem.  I'm wonder if the 1590A builders feel the same about those.

[BrianS]

Here's the dress nut on a switch that is against the inside of the box (no nut, washer, etc....).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EBK]

Thanks for posting that.  Just to check, what's the length of the bushing on that switch?

I believe my switches have a 9mm bushing.  Allowing 2mm for the enclosure thickness, I will have 7mm sticking up.  The dress nut you have is 8.25mm high, which is looking like a good option at the moment.

[BrianS]

The shaft length is 8.89mm or a 1/4".  Like I said the body is directly on the bottom of the enclosure.