Embarrassingly stupid: I heat-gunned my Current Lover now the Bypass LED always

[brucer]

The subject line pretty much says it all.  I turned my brain off for a couple of minutes while working on my Current Lover 2015.  The pedal was boxed up and working fine, but the hot-glued bypass LED popped out of it's hole.  I got the genius idea of remelting the glue with a heat gun.  Of course, the pedal then stopped producing a flange effect and the bypass LED lit up full-time. 

After replacing IC3 (CD4049), I got the effect back, but the LED bypass LED remains on.  Can anyone suggest what I may have done/where to start with the troubleshooting?

[brucer]

It would even help me get started if someone could let me know if the bypass LED is switched on/off by the 3PDT stomp or by one of the ICs. 

[alanp]

It's switched by the stomp. All the PCB does is provide the current limiting resistor, and a couple of pads to solder the LED in.

Desolder the PCB from the 3PDT and power jack, and begin from first principles testing the PCB itself, biasing, etc.

Then go through with your multimeter and check the 3PDT switch, jacks, and other mechanical box-ly items.