"New" finishing technique

[culturejam]

Somebody has probably does this already, I just don't remember seeing it. So I'm calling it "new" with quotes. Whatever.

The basic idea here is to use a color laser printer to produce a paper "faceplate" or whatever you want to call it. Then use Mod Podge to fix it to the enclosure and also as a clear coat. It's also possible to shoot clear coat spray over the fully dried Mod Podge if desired. It's not necessary from a protective standpoint, but it will make the finish shiny and help smooth out the texture appearance of the Mod Podge (brush strokes).

I've done this twice now, and I think it's a great alternative to other ways to do full-color graphics. It's cheap and requires no special equipment (other than access to a laser printer). Paper + Mod Podge is not a particularly forgiving combination (screw ups usually require a full do-over), but again, it's very cheap and easy to work with. A $6 bottle of the stuff will do maybe 100 pedals, depending on size and how many coats you do. They also have options for glow-in-the-dark and glitter, amongst many others. And, it's great for crafting with kids (paper mache or decoupage to name a few). It's non-toxic and cleans up with warm water.

I recommend a very light coat on the enclosure (it works on bare metal or powdercoat) and then lay down the paper. Light coats dry fast, so you'll have to be faster. Then gently smooth out the paper so it sticks fully. Give it a minute to dry a bit, and then brush on another light coat over everything (paper and metal). It will little sort of hazy, but don't worry as it dries clear. Takes about 5 minutes to dry enough for another coat. I recommend 4-5 coats. This seems to be enough to look nice and handle drilling (see below), although more would likely be better.

So after 4-5 coats and letting it fully cure for a few hours, this is what it looks like:


Then I used some painter's tape to mark the stompswitch and LED drill points. Here's a pic with that and the Mod Podge, the expensive-ass brush I bought (which works very well), and another printout of the graphic:


I was skeptical, but it does actually take drilling quite well. I tried drilling first and then applying the graphic, and doing it graphic first is a LOT easier. To my surprise, there was no lifting of the paper at all after drilling. The Mod Podge really hardens nicely and makes the paper part of the enclosure.

Here it is post-drill:




Anywya, I highly recommend you guys try this method, as it's cheap and easy. And I think it ends up looking pretty good. It's perfect for one-offs, and this one is for a Function f(x) prototype build.

[HamSandwich]

Looks great! I had modpodged some stuff, but couldn't get past the brush strokes. Does the expensive brush make it better? Or maybe the a sponge? I'll have to try to clear coat idea.

[culturejam]

Looks great! I had modpodged some stuff, but couldn't get past the brush strokes. Does the expensive brush make it better? Or maybe the a sponge? I'll have to try to clear coat idea.

The brush I got is a Mod Podge branded brush. It was like $6, which is nuts when other similar brushes are less than half of that. I was just being lazy in the store. It's got fine bristles and is better than other options I've tried, but you can still see some strokes. You can shoot a couple coats of acrylic clear over top to help reduce the texture. I figure you can keep going until it's totally gone, but I'm not sure how many coats that would be (I'd guess 5-6).

[Aleph Null]

Looks great! I had modpodged some stuff, but couldn't get past the brush strokes. Does the expensive brush make it better? Or maybe the a sponge? I'll have to try to clear coat idea.

You might be able to get fine brush strokes out with a light abrasive compound, like an automotive scratch remover. You run the risk of burning through the clear coat. I used similar products to polish scratched pick guard.

The Mod Podge really hardens nicely and makes the paper part of the enclosure.

How would you say the durability compares to polyurethane or  envirotex?

[culturejam]

How would you say the durability compares to polyurethane or  envirotex?

Probably less durable than those, but it's very solid stuff. Especially with multiple coats. If you then shot some clear on top, it's ultra-tough stuff. It gets very hard when fully dry.

[davent]

I've used an acrylic medium from Golden called GAC 200 to stick paper to enclosures. It's a hard medium you can use in acrylic paints and other mediums  to make harder. I've wet sanded it smooth with sandpaper you just have to work fast because the medium will start to rehydate.

I've used it with laser printouts coloured with coloured pencils as well as inkjet printouts. The printouts i first sprayed with a 50/50 of GAC200/Airbrush Medium and then used the GAC to glue them down.

Also use the GAC 200 to do toner transfers onto enclosures.




dave

[Aleph Null]

Did a little research. The Mod Podge site recommends the following for smoother finishes:

"Use a soft bristled brush and then sand between coats. To do this, apply the Mod Podge and let it dry an hour. Then use #0000 steel wool and lightly sand the entire surface."

It seems to me the biggest benefit to this approach is being able to do it indoors in the winter. My wife gets mad if I spray polyurethane in the house. 

They also have furniture and outdoor formulations, which would probably be more durable.

[culturejam]

It seems to me the biggest benefit to this approach is being able to do it indoors in the winter. My wife gets mad if I spray polyurethane in the house. 

Yes, the benefits (to me) are:
1) It's cheap and requires no exotic tools or materials
2) It's non-toxic and doesn't smell bad
3) It's pretty easy

The downsides are the texture to the finish and to make it super-glossy you need to go another step with spray clear coat.

[HamSandwich]

It seems to me the biggest benefit to this approach is being able to do it indoors in the winter. My wife gets mad if I spray polyurethane in the house. 

Yes, the benefits (to me) are:
1) It's cheap and requires no exotic tools or materials
2) It's non-toxic and doesn't smell bad
3) It's pretty easy

The downsides are the texture to the finish and to make it super-glossy you need to go another step with spray clear coat.

I wonder if you can use the machine polish stuff used on guitars? Steel wool + that would be SUPER easy and great for indoors.

[culturejam]

Finished pedal:

[jubal81]

1. Great results!


2. Seriously, you're not not going tell us what's in that miraculous little box?

[m-Kresol]

1. Great results!


2. Seriously, you're not not going tell us what's in that miraculous little box?

my thoughts exactly!

Tell us! Tell us! Tell us! Tell us! Tell us! Tell us! Tell us! Tell us! 

[culturejam]

It's an octave up fuzz. The gnarly sort.

[jimilee]

Martha Stewart would be proud of each of you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[madbean]

It's an octave up fuzz. The gnarly sort.

Yeah, it is a little monster of a fuzz pedal. I gots one too!

Also, Forrest- what about your CNC? That one engraving you did a few months ago looked great. Or, is it more trouble than it's worth?