Current Lover needs lovin' (w/ pics and voltages)

[BrianS]

Don't give up.  I know it's frustrating.  I've wanted to sit a couple of my builds out on the interstate to see how much stress the box would take. 

[LateCentury]

Sorry, I should have said before, your bias voltage is too low, have you tried fiddling with the trimmer? And if yes, what's the highest voltage you get on pin 3 of the 3007.

Alright, my volt meter was giving me a little trouble but I fixed it and I'm getting consistent readings.

When I turn the bias all the way down on pin 3 I get 0, then about halfway reads 2.48, all the way up reads 4.55.

Don't give up.  I know it's frustrating.  I've wanted to sit a couple of my builds out on the interstate to see how much stress the box would take. 

Man. Tell me about it. This is the first of 3 in a row I haven't been able to get to work. Its so maddening I almost want to toss all my unfinishing projects and parts up for sale and wash my hands of this hobby. 

[Scruffie]

Try jumpering R10 (just connect a piece of wire directly across it on the back of the board to short it out) and then adjust your bias again and see if you can get output from the BBD (pins 7 & .

[LateCentury]

Try jumpering R10 (just connect a piece of wire directly across it on the back of the board to short it out) and then adjust your bias again and see if you can get output from the BBD (pins 7 & .

Do you mean hold a wire on the back connecting the two r10 solder joints together?

[BrianS]

It may be hard for you to do that and do the adjusting and checking.  If the leads on the resistors are long enough, and you have a wire with the 2 alligator clips on it, that would work.  Otherwise, I believe you're going to have to solder it.  You don't have to use a lot to jump it. 

[Scruffie]

Yeah just tack solder a wire connecting those two pads.

[LateCentury]

Here's what I get when I connect the two r10 pads with wire:

1. 9.26
2. 4.59
3. 3.93
4. Varies
5. 0
6. 4.58
7. 4.86
8. 3.90

They seems pretty close. And this is with the trimmer about in the middle. Still, silence when switched on.

[Scruffie]

What's the maximum voltage you can get on Pin 3 now?

[LateCentury]

I'm getting 8.33 on pin 3 with the trimmer all the way up.

[LateCentury]

Would it help at all to get readings of the transistors?

[Scruffie]

Sorry, missed your last post.

Sure, can't hurt.

By the way... you did take your original voltage readings in filter matrix mode, right?

Stupid question, but I see now you don't have any voltage on pin 10 of the 324 which isn't right, dig there and find out what's happening.

[LateCentury]

I just did another round of readings. I'm getting good results for the 324, and now, there is only one oddball number. (And by the way, the jumper is still on the back of the pcb connecting the r10 pads together):

IC1 4558
pin 3 - 2.38

Here are the transistors:
Q1 2N3904 flat side facing me:
left - 5.08
middle - 5.52
right - 9.26

Q2 2N5087 flat side facing me:
left - 9.02
middle - 8.00
right - 2.97

Oh, I also tested the continuity of the switch pads to see if maybe the switch might be bad. I'm finding that switched off or on the right side pads, top or bottom test positive for continuity with the middle pad. Is that normal?

[Scruffie]

That reading for IC1 is fine, your meters impedance is just interacting with the input bias resistor.

It's late here and i'd need to read what you said about the switch again with a fresh head but it doesn't sound right to me right now... maybe someone else can give their opinion in the mean time.

[Longer713]

Hi guys,

Sorry for not bringing anything useful to this conversation this tome, but I'm having problems with Current Lover as well. Actualy with 3 of them. All boards do works, before calibration I do get a clean signal but calibration itself isn't going properly. I do 't have that crazy jet flanging sound at all, more like a super fast tremolo/delay like spund on Rate knob fully clockwise.

If somebody would be able to take a look on my topic as well I would highly appreciate.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25118.msg244540#msg244540

[LateCentury]

I just realized that there was no signal when the power wasn't connected to the board. Aren't true bypass pedals supposed to pass a signal even if there is no power? Is this a true bypass pedal? If so, this might narrow my problem down to the switch.

Before I go and disconnect all these wires, does this sound right?