Mudbunny to Pharaoh

[JakeFuzz]

I tried this the other day. Sounds pretty dead on. Mine seems to have a little less bass than the video but I did sub some of the coupling capacitor values. The high and bass knobs work in a very strange way and you should definitely use 25K for the high. I used 50 and the range was pretty limited.

[Diamond]

Last question... if using tantalums or electrolytics, which way should they be oriented?

The "+" should go to the place with the highest voltage. Such a thing is not always obvious from a schematic, but in this case both plusses should point toward the middle, if you know what I mean. With the minus pointing toward the input and output, respectively.

[eldanko]

Excellent - I had suspected as much but I wanted to be sure.  Thanks again for all the help... I'll get a build report up soon!   

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

This is such a must for me. I keep seeing more and more of the bands I'm into using one on their board. He really took over the doom/sludge scene!

[Diamond]

The guy who makes these also posts on the stonerrocklives forum.

[bigmufffuzzwizz]

The guy who makes these also posts on the stonerrocklives forum.

Makes a lot of sense. Didn't know that forum was still alive.
I saw one of Matt Pike's board about a week ago...what more incentive do I need after watching High On Fire rip my face apart.

[eldanko]

You guys are going to love my graphic for this one... hope to get it wired up tonight...   

[Matt Gnarly]

You guys are going to love my graphic for this one... hope to get it wired up tonight...   

Any update? I'm very interested in the Pharaoh. Also, for those who have tried both, how important is the mids control? I noticed the new Mudbunny board doesn't have a mids control.

[Diamond]

I really like a mids pot for a Big Muff. Makes it a lot more versatile and keeps you from disappearing in the band mix. I made a simple drawing about how to hook up the mids control.

First, change C10 to 22nF. This is essential!

Second, change R18 to a resistor and pot in series like in the attachment. I like a 2k7 resistor and 10k pot to go from standard mid cut to flat mids, but you could use a lower value resistor if you want more mid cut and a 25k LOG pot if you want more available midboost.

[Matt Gnarly]

I really like a mids pot for a Big Muff. Makes it a lot more versatile and keeps you from disappearing in the band mix. I made a simple drawing about how to hook up the mids control.

First, change C10 to 22nF. This is essential!

Second, change R18 to a resistor and pot in series like in the attachment. I like a 2k7 resistor and 10k pot to go from standard mid cut to flat mids, but you could use a lower value resistor if you want more mid cut and a 25k LOG pot if you want more available midboost.

Thanks Diamond! I'll definitely be adding a mids control, I didn't realize it'd be quite so easy.

[Diamond]

Yes it is quite easy and very effective! If you want to see exactly what the mids control does and maybe even tweak it to your liking, you can download this tone stack calculator from Duncan Amp Tools. It has a Big Muff model: http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/

Also, for future reference, DON'T use the mids-mod on the Pharaoh! It already has a tweaked tone stack. Only use the mids pot on one of the standard Mudbunny models (Triangle, Ram's Head, Russian, etc). This might be obvious to most, but since this is a Pharoah topic I thought I might mention this.

[alanp]

I made an Excel sheet based on the info I found on FSB. The values between the brackets are the standard Mudbunny values for power supply filtering. They might differ from the actual Pharaoh, but this won't affect the sound.

Sorry for the dredge, but the BigMuffPage 'Pharoah' schematic differs -- C4, C6, C7, C9, and C12 are 47nF, not 470nF. Should the FSB values be considered canonical over the BigMuffPage ones?

[ch1naski]

I built the fsb version, and was quite happy with it. Very big, dark, and huge sounding fuzz.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

[Jmilla]

Sorry if I missed this but how is the switching set up from the board to make the pharaoh?

[alanp]

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=12268.0

That's how I did mine. A second diode pair was added later (germanium).

The Lo/Hi switch is switching the flying resistor in parallel with the on-board one, and disconnecting it when off.