Triple wreck for 1590a in SMD; need some extra eyes WORKING TOPIC

[Rootz]

Haha thanks guys. The ic's should arrive shortly after October 11th. Fingers crossed and let's hope it works...


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[wgc]

Lordy, a man after mine own heart...  damn near fainted.

Looks amazing, had no idea you already had pcbs! (Dibs on a pcb set.)

I would've sent you the ic's, but ATM I doubt they'll get there sooner than your back order though.

Might be worth trying another op amp if you have any... 

Didn't realize you were doing pin and socket header for the footswitch. That should help relieve any strain you might have otherwise.

That's some precise drilling you did too.

Love to see a good plan come together.

[Rootz]

Haha great. When looking at the Troyka build I was thinking: I want that too (that's yours right?)! Definitely one of those benchmark builds for me.

I was really surprised drilling came out so neat. The holes for the plastic shaft are only 0.5 mm bigger than the shafts. There is no margin for error. Having a good template, centre punch and stepped drill bit made it easier.

Thanks for your generosity. I've got some tl072 from TI lying around. I've read though that the 4580 is the ic that delivers the real Triple Wreck sound. I haven't got a hot air soldering station so changing ic's is a bit of a challenge. It can be done, but I'd rather wait whilst being an impatient person...

It still is easy to put at least some strain on the pcb. Put the foot switch too high: strain. Put the nut on the toggle switch to low: strain. A better way to do the foot switch would be to use a double height pin header. First mount the main pcb with the header soldered to it, then place the foot switch with pcb. When all nuts are fastened solder the foot switch pcb to the pinheader: solid connection, but no strain. Not sure about a better way to do the toggle yet. It would be nice if I could somehow figure out a way to get the top of the switch exactly to the height of the metal shaft pots.

I'll be taking orders once this pcb is confirmed working, I'm fully satisfied and I put together a small building guide. A guide is pretty much needed as it is very likely to mount parts in the wrong order and get yourself into problems that way...

After verifying I'm open to mods and additions for next runs of the pcb. Should be fun to mod this circuit to taste and/or get more versatility out of it.


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[sturgeo]

Put my name down for one once its verified 

Do you have any gut shots of it inside the enclosure?

Your original brd has it at 88.9mm long, i've just measured and the max i can fit (in a genuine 1590a) 10mm from the top (9mm pot height) is 88.35mm. Same goes for width, between the pillars i've got 21.5mm and the brd is 21.59mm

[Rootz]

I've got 1590a clones from Ali. Not sure if they are exactly the same size as those from Hammond... I've got room left in the enclosures I use.


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[Rootz]

Bit difficult to see... there is 0.5 mm space all around the board.


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[Rootz]

Boards are 87.6 x 33.6. Between the pillars 21.6. Check the data sheet of the 1590a. You should probably have some space left. Renders in sketchup with carefully modelled parts suggest everything should fit in a Hammond 1590a.

Here's what I'll do: buy a genuine 1590a and confirm that it will fit (I bought a load of those really nice and sturdy cheap Chinese boxes).


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[wgc]

My experience with the Ali boxes is that the corners on the Hammond are a little bit rounder. Should be a good fit either way.

Thanks for the kind words on the Troyka. That layout and board is from Chuckbuick so I can't take credit for that. He does some of the nicest layouts, I can't say enough good things about them.  Beautiful stuff. (It's a great pedal too, though I tend to prefer my engl red Sonja build.)

But I'm super stoked and flattered if anything I've done has inspired someone else in even the slightest way. Usually I post to say, "here's a few things I messed up a little, here's the issue, maybe you can avoid the same." 

[Rootz]

My experience with the Ali boxes is that the corners on the Hammond are a little bit rounder. Should be a good fit either way.

Thanks for the kind words on the Troyka. That layout and board is from Chuckbuick so I can't take credit for that. He does some of the nicest layouts, I can't say enough good things about them.  Beautiful stuff. (It's a great pedal too, though I tend to prefer my engl red Sonja build.)

But I'm super stoked and flattered if anything I've done has inspired someone else in even the slightest way. Usually I post to say, "here's a few things I messed up a little, here's the issue, maybe you can avoid the same." 

The corners on a Hammond are rounder indeed!

I saw all layout Chucksbuick did here on the madbean forum. Great great stuff. And you can take credit for the impeccable job on the assembly and finish.

Anyway... Take a look at this.



Are you going to believe me when I say I skipped swearing time a together and popped a bottle of champagne right away for good reasons? Man what a beast this is! I was a little bit worried that the linear bass pot instead of a reverse log would limit its useable range, but it is perfect. I suspect that the real TW has a very narrow useable range with lower bass settings.

I am really stunned how versatile this pedal is. At lower gain settings and the brutal/normal switch to normal, it does a very good classic rock tone. Higher on the gain, on brutal and with the mids low its chunk chunk heaven. Very good tone stack! I love it!

Whilst The switching now being done by a DPDT and an opto mosfet, it still isn't completely silent. On higher gain it still gives a noticeable pop when switching on. Not very loud though but not much better than with a 3PDT. Switching action is much better. No more pain in the feet when switching whilst wearing socks :-).


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[jubal81]

Congrats, bud. THat's a huge win!

[Rootz]

Thanks! A huge win indeed. With everything board mounted and spaced like in this build, debugging would be hell... But, no need to debug this time

[wgc]

Wow, I was waiting to see if this worked, and I missed it entirely!

Awesome job, can't wait to buy some pcbs!

[nzCdog]

hotness!! 

[Rootz]

Yes, this one can go on sale! I tried it on a '73 super lead and a matching 4x12 with G12H's: monstrous tone. Good God, that's a shit load of lows...

I've got two prototypes left. Those are fully functional, nicely done OSH Park boards, just without a board name printed on them (of course there is a silk screen). I'll place a post in Buy/Sell/Trade about it, but you can also pm me.

[Rootz]

What do you think WGC, would a BOM, shopping list, schematic and layout be enough to build this pedal? Could you have a look at the PDF I attached? That so far only contains BOM, shopping list and brief description. Schematic and layout (top and bottom) will be added.