Triple wreck for 1590a in SMD; need some extra eyes WORKING TOPIC

[Govmnt_Lacky]

That's a great job.

I also like that you didn't board mount the foot switch.

I agree however, I do wonder why even use the adapter PCB that you are soldering onto the footswitch. Why not save the money and time and just wire from the main PCB to the switch directly?

[m-Kresol]

chapeau, my good sir

[Rootz]

That's a great job.

I also like that you didn't board mount the foot switch.

I agree however, I do wonder why even use the adapter PCB that you are soldering onto the footswitch. Why not save the money and time and just wire from the main PCB to the switch directly?

I've got two pretty simple reasons for this: I wanted a wireless build for no other reason than convenience. And I wanted to experiment with a pinheaded to quick connect the foot switch. Header on main and switch board and just plug and play. It's pretty clean also this way. I payed approx 3 bucks for tree switch boards FYI... Not my idea of expensive. I paid top dollar for the sioc 4580s and the optocouplers however. 1.20 Euro for one op amp is a bit steep I think.
Also, to my surprise, Tayda is the only supplier I could find, that has board mount Alpha 9 mm pots with plastic shafts that are reverse log. Pretty lame if you only order 3 pots on the other side of the globe if you ask me.


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[sturgeo]

I love these builds, i'm currently redesigning various 1590a all-in-one boards to use optical bypass and had run into an issue with the heights. 9mm pots and a "through mounted" dpdt might be the way to do it, i'm not that brave with SMD yet though!

[Rootz]

I love these builds, i'm currently redesigning various 1590a all-in-one boards to use optical bypass and had run into an issue with the heights. 9mm pots and a "through mounted" dpdt might be the way to do it, i'm not that brave with SMD yet though!

Thanks! I've said it before and will say it again: SMD is at least as simple as tht. Not always needed though. Take a close look to the mini pedals from Mooer, Eno, Donner, etc. I think some of those designs are nothing short of impressive and were a big inspiration for my designs. I borrowed the idea of the through mounted DPDT. I'm currently working on a CE-2 in 1590a format. There smd is a must. I even opted for stacked pcb's; a double decker.
Let's hope this triple wreck project turns out satisfactory in every respect. Can't wait to put 9 Volts on it and hear the well known sounds out of this tiny build.


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[pickdropper]

That's a great job.

I also like that you didn't board mount the foot switch.

I agree however, I do wonder why even use the adapter PCB that you are soldering onto the footswitch. Why not save the money and time and just wire from the main PCB to the switch directly?

I've got two pretty simple reasons for this: I wanted a wireless build for no other reason than convenience. And I wanted to experiment with a pinheaded to quick connect the foot switch. Header on main and switch board and just plug and play. It's pretty clean also this way. I payed approx 3 bucks for tree switch boards FYI... Not my idea of expensive. I paid top dollar for the sioc 4580s and the optocouplers however. 1.20 Euro for one op amp is a bit steep I think.
Also, to my surprise, Tayda is the only supplier I could find, that has board mount Alpha 9 mm pots with plastic shafts that are reverse log. Pretty lame if you only order 3 pots on the other side of the globe if you ask me.


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It'll definitely look cleaner, but you may get better reliability if you connect the footswitch with wires instead of a header strip.

What you are going to run into is that you are going to have the board mount to the enclosure in multiple planes.  Any binding at all could add stress to the solder joints.

[Rootz]

Very true, thanks! I'll pay close attention to that. I could also use solid core wire or plain wire to make the connections. Makes it somewhat flexible and is still very clean. There are more ways to Rome so to speak.


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[alanp]

Thanks very much for the kind comments! I have to temper them a bit. First let's see if the pedal actually works when done. I'm done for today anyway: out of parts and need to go to the gym. I'll continue work on Thursday or Friday and should know whether this project is successful or not by Saturday. Pretty exciting huh?

Solder time! Then it's swearing time, followed by troubleshooting time, then "Why won't you bloody WORK!", then "AhHA!" then it's bourbon and pizza time!

[Rootz]

Thanks very much for the kind comments! I have to temper them a bit. First let's see if the pedal actually works when done. I'm done for today anyway: out of parts and need to go to the gym. I'll continue work on Thursday or Friday and should know whether this project is successful or not by Saturday. Pretty exciting huh?

Solder time! Then it's swearing time, followed by troubleshooting time, then "Why won't you bloody WORK!", then "AhHA!" then it's bourbon and pizza time!

Haha, I'm stuck at solder time combined with "why TF do you say something is in stock, when it's not Conrad!!" time. Yup, all except 1 ic on backorder  . Forgive me, bad practice, I already started boxing this up. Now I know the whole concept really works. Everything board mounted that is.

Had some more work done. I'm still looking for a nice pcb connector to connect the power inlet to the pcb. Not really necessary, but would be cool. Any tips? The Molex I have is just to tall... should be less than 20 mm tall, 10 to 15 is preferred.

Anyway, pictures:

[sturgeo]

  Very nice, did you have to do any adapting to the neutrik jacks to clear the pot legs?

I've had a look at the previous iteration you uploaded, it doesn't look like it should all fit, need to get my calipers out and check my 1590a measurements, looks like you got the jack spacing just right.

[Rootz]

Very nice, did you have to do any adapting to the neutrik jacks to clear the pot legs?

I've had a look at the previous iteration you uploaded, it doesn't look like it should all fit, need to get my calipers out and check my 1590a measurements, looks like you got the jack spacing just right.

Yep, i got it just right except for one minor thingy... the Mattel tab on the base of one of the pots was touching a grounded connection of the output jack. That should not be a problem, but nonetheless I removed that tab (just like you do with the protruding tab on the other side of most potentiometers). I soldered the gain and volume pit from the component side, as the bottom side is covered mostly by the jack. I already knew that was the best (if not only) way to solder them. The connections are very solid though, because the holes are through plated. I'm very pleased how this worked out: solid and simple as long as you do it in the right order.

Literally can't wait for the rest of the ic's to arrive. So curious if it really works and how it sounds!!


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[sturgeo]

the Mattel tab on the base of one of the pots was touching a grounded connection of the output jack.

That'll be good though won't it as it'll ground the enclosure? or are you doing that another way?

[Rootz]

the Mattel tab on the base of one of the pots was touching a grounded connection of the output jack.

That'll be good though won't it as it'll ground the enclosure? or are you doing that another way?

That will be done but at the switch. There is an extra wire pad on the switch board present for grounding the enclosure. Can be done in more than one way though. I find that a tab pressing to a solder joint is not solid enough to be considered desirable, hence I removed it.


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[juansolo]

That's some serious mad scientist miniaturisation shit going on right there!   

[pickdropper]

That looks fantastic!  Great job.