Alpha pots - Tayda vs Small Bear

[somnif]

I recently ordered a pot from Small Bear as Tayda didn't have the particular value I was interested in (1M Log). I thought they had identical parts numbers, but I realize now there is a tiny difference:

Tayda- RV16AF-41-15R-Value
Small Bear- RV16AF-41-15R1-Value

I didn't notice until it was in hand. The Small Bear pot has takes much less torque to turn, and has a smooth shaft top. The Tayda pots take more force to move, have a small indentation on the shaft tip, and are a slightly duller grey.

I just can't figure out what the additional 1 means. RV = Rotary pot. 16=size AF=without tap 41=10.7mm thick 15=shaft height R=300 degree rotation

But what does the 1 mean?!?!? I mean, the pot works perfectly well (honestly, better than the tayda as Its easier to turn) but it annoys me when I can't decode something like this. Anyone have any ideas?

[Stomptown]

I'm not sure what it means but the shaft diameter on the tayda pots is also slightly less than the standard Alphas most suppliers carry. In my experience Knobs turn slightly off center and wobble due to the smaller diameter of the Tayda Alphas. Because of this and the fact that they feel different I won't use them (I'm admittedly overly picky).  If I had to guess, the difference in part number has to do with the fact that Tayda is selling a budget version made with slightly different materials, specs, etc.

[Stomptown]

So I decided to take a look inside to see if there were any differences and there were.  Check it out (small bear on left/tayda on right in all pics):


(the pins on the Small Bear alpha were cut off in order to remove the pot easily from a PCB)




(noticeably smaller diameter shaft of the Tayda version)

As you can see, construction, materials and specs are inconsistent, which explains how Tayda is able to sell theirs for less than half of the other guys.

[somnif]

Fascinating! I'm still getting back into pedal making after a ~10 year gap so I'm sticking with the cheap for now (grad student budget, woo), but I'm glad to know that better parts exist. I doubt i'll swap the pots in the pedals I already have made, but for future reference maybe I'll try to budget the extra 75 cents a pot to get the "good stuff".

[Stomptown]

Fascinating! I'm still getting back into pedal making after a ~10 year gap so I'm sticking with the cheap for now (grad student budget, woo), but I'm glad to know that better parts exist. I doubt I'll swap the pots in the pedals I already have made, but for future reference maybe I'll try to budget the extra 75 cents a pot to get the "good stuff".

Honestly, the Tayda alphas are probably just fine and I've never heard of people having issues with them so it's probably not worthy the extra cash unless you are super picky or building commercially. My biggest issue using Tayda Alphas for personal builds is that they never seem to have all the values I need and I don't particular like mixing them with the other alphas due to the difference it torque and smaller shaft diameter. Hopefully I didn't come off like a cork sniffer.

[somnif]

The only problem I have with them is the torque needed to turn them means the knobs I bought for my last pedal are a bit slippy, which annoys me. I could get a dremmel and cut a notch/divet into the shaft I suppose, but I'm quite lazy.

[brucer]

The only problem I have with them is the torque needed to turn them means the knobs I bought for my last pedal are a bit slippy, which annoys me. I could get a dremmel and cut a notch/divet into the shaft I suppose, but I'm quite lazy.

Yep.  I've found the same thing.  It's hard to get the set screw tight enough that the knob doesn't free spin, even just a little.  Not awesome to have that after all the time spent building, debugging, boxing. etc.

[neandrewthal]

Fascinating! I'm still getting back into pedal making after a ~10 year gap so I'm sticking with the cheap for now (grad student budget, woo), but I'm glad to know that better parts exist. I doubt I'll swap the pots in the pedals I already have made, but for future reference maybe I'll try to budget the extra 75 cents a pot to get the "good stuff".

Honestly, the Tayda alphas are probably just fine and I've never heard of people having issues with them so it's probably not worthy the extra cash unless you are super picky or building commercially. My biggest issue using Tayda Alphas for personal builds is that they never seem to have all the values I need and I don't particular like mixing them with the other alphas due to the difference it torque and smaller shaft diameter. Hopefully I didn't come off like a cork sniffer.

Thats what really did me in and why I will switch to the good ones next time I need to order more. The tayda ones are annoying enough already being harder to turn and with wobbly knobs but I almost always need a couple of the better ones on my builds to get the values I need and they make the tayda ones seem really pahetic side by side. But thats not the worst thing yet. Its trying to keep the fucking nuts sorted out and remembering which goes where when assembling/dis-assembling.

If Im not crazy the larger nuts will go on the smaller tayda pots easily enough, but if you do that you will be down a bigger one and the smaller ones will NOT fit over the larger shafts.

Also, Mammoth has the good ones for 26 cents cheaper than Small Bear. I know a lot of people dont like them but Ive only had good experiences.

[somnif]

My only problem with Mammoth is their shipping prices tend to be higher than elsewhere (or at least they were ~4 years ago)

[stringsthings]

Just found this thread.   Very interesting to see the differences between the Small Bear pots and the Tayda pots.

[BrianS]

Mammoth has really inexpensive USPS shipping if you're ordering small parts.  For $3.23 (To San Antonio) I can get 20 pots shipped. That's very reasonable.

[Muadzin]

Fascinating! I'm still getting back into pedal making after a ~10 year gap so I'm sticking with the cheap for now (grad student budget, woo), but I'm glad to know that better parts exist. I doubt I'll swap the pots in the pedals I already have made, but for future reference maybe I'll try to budget the extra 75 cents a pot to get the "good stuff".

Honestly, the Tayda alphas are probably just fine and I've never heard of people having issues with them so it's probably not worthy the extra cash unless you are super picky or building commercially. My biggest issue using Tayda Alphas for personal builds is that they never seem to have all the values I need and I don't particular like mixing them with the other alphas due to the difference it torque and smaller shaft diameter. Hopefully I didn't come off like a cork sniffer.

Thats what really did me in and why I will switch to the good ones next time I need to order more. The tayda ones are annoying enough already being harder to turn and with wobbly knobs but I almost always need a couple of the better ones on my builds to get the values I need and they make the tayda ones seem really pahetic side by side. But thats not the worst thing yet. Its trying to keep the fucking nuts sorted out and remembering which goes where when assembling/dis-assembling.

If Im not crazy the larger nuts will go on the smaller tayda pots easily enough, but if you do that you will be down a bigger one and the smaller ones will NOT fit over the larger shafts.

Also, Mammoth has the good ones for 26 cents cheaper than Small Bear. I know a lot of people dont like them but Ive only had good experiences.

You make it sound like turning a Tayda pot is akin to lifting the anker on an 18th century Manowar. Even if so, it might even be a good thing. In my book stiff action is a good thing on pedals because you want the pots to remain on their last setting, not constantly move out of place by the merest breeze off the wind.

Mammoth has really inexpensive USPS shipping if you're ordering small parts.  For $3.23 (To San Antonio) I can get 20 pots shipped. That's very reasonable.

Unless you live in Europe. Then prepare to get assraped. Both by Mammoth and EU customs. With no lube.

[somnif]

I find it interesting that the datasheets for both pots lists the same operational torque (20-200 gf cm). The Tayda pots feel like they take roughly twice the force to turn (in my incredibly scientific testing method).

[BrianS]

Mammoth has really inexpensive USPS shipping if you're ordering small parts.  For $3.23 (To San Antonio) I can get 20 pots shipped. That's very reasonable.

Unless you live in Europe. Then prepare to get assraped. Both by Mammoth and EU customs. With no lube.
[/quote]

Sorry man.  I understand your delimma about postal charges over there (I was in the US Air Force and spent 11 yrs in Germany, the Netherlands and Belgium).  There were times when I had to use the local post and it was like geeeeezzzeee.  Your statement is very descriptive and totally hilarious but I don't wish ass raping on anyone with or without lube.  It reminds me of watching the HBO series Oz or Deliverance.  From now on I will ensure I specify US postage to ensure you will not have vivid images of things I don't even like thinking about LOL. 

[lars]

I've found that typically an extra digit, such as a "1" in the manufacture code denotes where it was manufactured. And as your post demonstrates, that can have a huge impact on the quality. This is one of those deceptive practices by big manufacturers, and many of them do it.
I remember the same thing with some M-audio monitor speakers I quickly returned years ago. The "version" I got had the exact specs and model number as it should, except for one different digit. Turns out, the ones I received had dirt-cheap mylar tweeters, whereas they are supposed to have silk dome tweeters.
Samsung monitors typically have two versions - one made in mexico that is garbage, and then their "real" version which is typically made in korea or japan. Same idea....