Envirotex / Epoxy Tutorial - New Method

[chromesphere]

Well...new to me atleast, I've never seen it down this way before.  Looks hugely neater then what I have been doing so far (drippy sides etc).  I will definitely be giving this a go.   The tutorial is easy to follow and clear, I just felt this was too good not to share with you guys.

This tutorial was sent to me privately by a madbean forum user, he has given me permission to post this here (thanks again mate!). 

[AntKnee]

Thanks for posting. Personnaly, I am not fond of the edge it leaves on the tape line. I've found that if you pour on a little, spread it around, and add more if necessary in small amounts but don't over pour, you wont have to worry about drips in the first place. This is a good alternative to sitting there and watching it dry, though.

[Willybomb]

Where do you get the stuff in Australia/Victoria/Melbourne, and what is it called over here?

[chromesphere]

Where do you get the stuff in Australia/Victoria/Melbourne, and what is it called over here?

Epoxy.  My small supply was from Riot Art and Crafts.

[pickdropper]

Thanks for posting. Personnaly, I am not fond of the edge it leaves on the tape line. I've found that if you pour on a little, spread it around, and add more if necessary in small amounts but don't over pour, you wont have to worry about drips in the first place. This is a good alternative to sitting there and watching it dry, though.

Yeah, I agree.

Pouring and wiping it off the sides (aka the Juansolo/Cleggy method) is tedious, but it yields the best results.

If one can live with the tape line, this method would definitely be easy.

[chromesphere]

Clearly I need more practice smoothing.  So far all my attempts at smoothing the sides of the enclosure have turned into a huge mess!  In fact all my epoxy attempts have been somewhat of a mess regardless of the method hah

[m-Kresol]

I actually had problems with drips on the side very very rarely. I found it usually stays on top anyways via surface tension. I use a pipette to apply it to the taped up holes and then just pour and wipe/distribute to the corners.
The thing I always have is that it creeps through the sticky tape I use to seal the holes pior to applying it, makes a mess of the inside. especially when using an oven to cure. that actually glued an enclosure to a rather expensive furnace once :p

Edit: It will of course drip off the sides if a thick coat is applied. I usually use about 9 ml for a 125B, which gives a nice, thick and glossy coating but isn't too much.

[AntKnee]

I like to pour on about a tablespoon (depends on enclosure size), then spread it around like butter on bread, using a popsicle stick. If I need to add more to get full coverage, I add very little at a time. I push the ET all the way to the edges and run my popsicle stick along the edge to very lightly coat it. Its not important that it be thick on the edge at this point, only that you add enough ET to the edge so the surface tension "pulls" an even amount to the edge. This results in only using enough to cover the surface with little or no dripping. If you're pouring it all over the surface to cover, once it self-levels, you'll have too much and it will drip every time. I use blue painters tape to back the holes and I really rub it on well so it doesn't leak through.

[chromesphere]

I like to pour on about a tablespoon (depends on enclosure size), then spread it around like butter on bread, using a popsicle stick. If I need to add more to get full coverage, I add very little at a time. I push the ET all the way to the edges and run my popsicle stick along the edge to very lightly coat it. Its not important that it be thick on the edge at this point, only that you add enough ET to the edge so the surface tension "pulls" an even amount to the edge. This results in only using enough to cover the surface with little or no dripping. If you're pouring it all over the surface to cover, once it self-levels, you'll have too much and it will drip every time. I use blue painters tape to back the holes and I really rub it on well so it doesn't leak through.

I think this is where I have gone wrong in the past.  Im chucking it on like icing on a cake.  Thanks for the explanation I will try this!

[hoodoo]

Bunnings in Oz have what you need, Willybomb. The stuff i've used is called glass coat, not envirotex, same shit 

[chromesphere]

Good one Hoodoo, didnt know bunnings had epoxy!  Hard to tell how much is in the package "1m square" doesn't tell us much....wondering if its cheaper then Riot Art...probably pretty likely.  As my wife calls it "Rip off Art"

http://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-watson-0-5m-glass-finish_p1520388

[jimilee]

Thanks Paul. Brian mentioned something like this a while back. I like the clear tape part though. I figured I'd go all the way to the top with the clear tape.


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[Willybomb]

Thanks. I'd seen Glass Coat in there but didn't know if it was the right stuff.

I'm going to try it shortly because I have a couple of builds that are going to get sanded very soon if I can't get them fixed up. I'm trying out Rustoleum 2x Clear loves the sticker paper on top (but needs a stupid number of coats) but absolutely hates etching primer (sides). Used sanded the dudes back roughly and used etching primer on the sides of one (looks okish) and Rustoleum 2x black on the other (looks like crap).

[darrenw6000]

I thought you just used a clear powder coat on your enclosures didn't you?

[Willybomb]

Me?  No, I use a rattlecan clear that I usually cut and polish.  The best I've found is called 1k, but it can be tough to find.  It often gets used as a base for touchup paint if you go into a shop and get a tint mixed.  I used a laquer on a few builds recently, and that went on really nicely.  I've had all sorts of grief in my search for a good rattlecan clear that doesn't chuck a mental with various undercoats and inks - I've tried all manner of enamels, acrylics, brands.

Edit:  This is the stuff I use.  It seems to play nice with the etching primer I use as a basecoat: