Trying to do the true bypass project with my CryBaby Wah GCB-95

[earl8034]

Hello, I'm new to the site. I tried to look through another tutorial on here about this mod and I'm having difficulties understanding certain parts.

Here it is http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=020bb620c50b614ab2567e440f4feace&topic=13692.0

Using the first photo
1.I was trying to connect a wire to the capacitor on C9 but it snapped, Does anyone know a replacement capacitor for the one if it is needed. I think the capacitor read the numbers 103 but I'm not sure.

2.Did I have to remove all of the capacitors on the front from the board as well

Using the second photo
3.I cut a line where they said to cut on the back, was that necessary or did I ruin the board. I'm not trying to do the LED mod, just the true bypass

And the board was REV H if that helps thanks

[beneharris]

So just looking at this really quickly, you didn't ruin the board, you can always just use a jumper on that piece you cut.

If you're going to remove the bypass components completely, you won't need a replacement for C9. Read the stinkfoot article on this, too. If it were me, I'd just remove all those components. You won't need them.

There are a lot of capacitor conversion charts out there that will tell you what that 103 means, take some time and look those up, that will serve you well in the long run.

[earl8034]

OK thanks. I was reading the stinkfoot article but I just wanted an opinion on this just to make sure since this is my first time modding a pedal. Thanks again

[beneharris]

No problem. This is a good one to start with, thats what I did. Plus, these are super easy to replace if something goes wrong. But stick with it, and make it worth, it'll pay off.

[jball85]

Do use capacitor code and conversion charts for future reference, but until then C9 (103) should be .01uf or 10nf.

Code chart- http://tubeamplifierparts.com/handy-amp-info/capacitor-code-chart.html

Conversion chart- http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html

If you decide you want to return the board to stock in the future. Then run (solder) a wire from the solder pads marked with a red "X" in this picture, this will reconnect the  two points in the circuit that have been separated by the drill hole/cut.

[earl8034]

Thanks for the reply. I'll let you guys know how it goes when I'm finished