So, I've got this thing to troubleshoot and repair...

[Willybomb]

So, I have a Shin-ei Echo Reverb Master that's not in the best shape.  The pots are fairly shot I think - the music/line pot only works around the 1 o'clock position, and the effect it fairly minimal at least.

Jimmy wants a true bypass installed, but I think a loop pedal for it might be a better idea.  I'm going to start with checking solders spots, wd-40 in the pots, and go from there.

Edit:  Thinking about it, I might be able to hardwire the power and use a 3dpt for bypass maybe.  Or something.

[gtr2]

Why WD-40 in the pots?  Oil based products attract dust and dirt.  Use DeOxit.

[m-Kresol]

if the pots are broken, WD40 or any other cleaner will do no good. You're better off replacing them entirely

[Willybomb]

I've WD40'd the pots before I read the replies. Why WD40? Probably because I saw someone else do it years ago. Pots are nice and smooth for the moment now though.

Now to see how to make it true bypass with the 3 inputs.

[lincolnic]

WD40's going to attract dirt and dust and shorten the lifespan of your pots. Next time, use DeOxit.

Or, you know, what Josh said. 

[Willybomb]

I've talked it over with Jimmy, and I'm going to give it a dedicated power switch, and true bypass as it has NO bypass whatsoever.  Currently, the footswitch is a power switch that kills all signal when the power is off, and when you turn it on there is no signal until (I presume) the capacitors charge.

This is the wiring I've come up with.  I have a 4pdt footswicth ready to go.  Does anyone know If I can run 240 volts through it for the LED (or whatever the lamp in there currently is), or should I piggyback an LED off the transformer?

[wgc]

The switch should have a rating for what is safe. No offense intended here, but the nature of your question and the 240v makes me think that maybe you should not be modding this circuit just yet.  A small mistake can have a huge impact.

[Willybomb]

Not to sound cocky or dismiss your concerns but I've done a bit of 240v work - I'm very paranoid about it too - having built a couple of amps and my pedal power supply.  Not a lot, but enough to be dangerous I guess.

No power ratings on my of my footswitches here, but looking up the website I got it from originally, I should be right if I run the led off the switch and not the 18v on the board.

http://pedalpartsaustralia.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_13&products_id=52

[Willybomb]

Well, at this point of time:

My bypass works.  As the output is directly connected to the ouput jack at all times, kicking the unit will cause the spring "boing" to come through regardless of bypassed or effected.  I could bypass the output properly, but I need a pole for the LED/Neon switch, so this is the best compromise.

Now I need to drill a hole for the power switch (that job was previously done by the footswitch) and fuses ect.

[wgc]

Not to sound cocky or dismiss your concerns but I've done a bit of 240v work - I'm very paranoid about it too - having built a couple of amps and my pedal power supply.  Not a lot, but enough to be dangerous I guess.

No power ratings on my of my footswitches here, but looking up the website I got it from originally, I should be right if I run the led off the switch and not the 18v on the board.

http://pedalpartsaustralia.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_13&products_id=52

yeah, I always hesitate but I figure its better to regret offending someone who might not realize the risk than not say anything at all.  The danger might not even be to you but the person using the switch in the future.  Might be worth splurging on a name brand switch if you can find one or at least from a supplier who posts the data sheets.

[Willybomb]

All good mate.  I've posted the finished results in the build reports.