OMG Fuzz Redeaux - Warning: 1590A Content

[Jakes Dad]

For a year and a half this Guitar PCB OMG Fuzz (Roger Mayer Mongoose variant) lived happily in a nice roomy 1590B.  Then somebody here got crazy and decided it needed to be stuffed into a 1590A - not really all that hard once the electrolytic caps had been swapped out for the short versions and the pots were changed from 16mm to 9mm (soldered to one of THCustoms' three pot boards).  The positioning of the pot holes in the box and the board mounted LED made things a little interesting but everything fit fine after just a little swearing and bending the tabs on the DC jack.  The box is a recycled Hammond - that gray patch used to be an LED hole (filled with JB Weld and sanded level).  Time, weather and imagination are just not conducive to a fine finish right now so it will stay as is until work slacks a bit.
Here's the outside:

And the guts:


Chuck

[galaxiex]

I'm gonna call it "cute" tho that may not have been the response you were expecting.... 

[jimilee]

That's really clean outside and in.


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[AntKnee]

I've JB welded a couple boxes, too. Good worh on the rehouse.

[jtaormina]

Hm. I may have to try some JB on a couple of my blems.  I should be able to powder coat over those JB spots I would think.  How strong is it? Am I in danger of knocking it out?

[Jakes Dad]

Hm. I may have to try some JB on a couple of my blems.  I should be able to powder coat over those JB spots I would think.  How strong is it? Am I in danger of knocking it out?

When I have room I bevel the inside and outside edge so there is a physical lock once it hardens - you probably could knock it out with a hemmer.  When filling the hole I put a piece of painter's tape on the inside - it's easier to sand the outside than the inside.  How strong is it?  I used to frequent the VW Vanagon forums - VW tried a rather bizarre engine experiment staring in mid 1984 when they turned an air cooled boxer engine into a water cooled engine with several different metal types that basically decided to eat itself (serious corrosion issues in the heads) and kept that engine in production until 1990 or so.  The most common and effective fix for  the head issues was a generous coating of JB Weld on the mating and gasket surfaces filed smooth and flat - this was rumored to last longer than new heads.

The stuff is pretty easy to sand while still being hard. 

Chuck

[jtaormina]

Hm. I may have to try some JB on a couple of my blems.  I should be able to powder coat over those JB spots I would think.  How strong is it? Am I in danger of knocking it out?

When I have room I bevel the inside and outside edge so there is a physical lock once it hardens - you probably could knock it out with a hemmer.  When filling the hole I put a piece of painter's tape on the inside - it's easier to sand the outside than the inside.  How strong is it?  I used to frequent the VW Vanagon forums - VW tried a rather bizarre engine experiment staring in mid 1984 when they turned an air cooled boxer engine into a water cooled engine with several different metal types that basically decided to eat itself (serious corrosion issues in the heads) and kept that engine in production until 1990 or so.  The most common and effective fix for  the head issues was a generous coating of JB Weld on the mating and gasket surfaces filed smooth and flat - this was rumored to last longer than new heads.

The stuff is pretty easy to sand while still being hard. 

Chuck

Haha strong stuff I see. I have a small tube I used to repair an exterior door at home with but it never gets touched or has any stress. Just holding some stuff together.  I think I have enough left to try on one or two holes. I'll do that bevel trick too. I'm fairly sure powder coating will also work. I used to use cardboard as a base cover when painting and the powder would settle on it. Once baked it was never coming off that cardboard. So I'm sure JB would be the same. Should be great for hiding that hole.

[Jakes Dad]

Weather improved and work slacked off a bit so I disassembled this one and painted the enclosure.  Looking at the old space ship Mongooses (Mongeese?) it looks like the came in either a magenta or purple and had a rough texture so I tried to replicate that.  The only magenta-ish paint I could find looked too much like pink so I grabbed the purple. Shot the primer and color from about double the recommended distance in very short bursts to give that cast aluminum grit then added the craft stamp labels and shot it with a couple coats of satin clear.  Here 'tis in living color:

Replaced the LED while I was at it so it fit the neatly beveled hole better. 

This one is done!

Chuck

[jtaormina]

Hey chuck is that rattle can? I typically powder coat and I read the package of the newly purchased JB weld and it says it can only handle 200deg F. That's it enough for powder coating. Need like 400F.  I wonder if it would melt? I should try it anyway I'm fixing a botch job anyhow right...

[Jakes Dad]

Hey chuck is that rattle can? I typically powder coat and I read the package of the newly purchased JB weld and it says it can only handle 200deg F. That's it enough for powder coating. Need like 400F.  I wonder if it would melt? I should try it anyway I'm fixing a botch job anyhow right...

Yes, rattle can.  I checked the tubes I have and there's no mention of temperature other than an advisory that lower temperatures result in a longer cure time.

Chuck

[Timko]

Super clean build. I'm always impressed with people who have the patience to build anything in a 1590a.