The "Multi" Rat and the switches

[JackSkellington]

Hi guys.
One of my next projects is The Rat, a kind of multi rat version.
I chose this:
http://www.sabrotone.com/?attachment_id=2127

So, that should be a sort of three version in one, cause the several clipping.
I wanted to use for the first time a rotary switch and I bought this 2P6T:
http://www.musikding.de/Rotary-switch-2P6T-open

I bought it for a more complex version, but then I change my mind for an easier version, in the first link.

My question:
1. Can I use a 2P6T rotary switch in that layout? I was thinking to use the three clipping modes and a fourth position for a no clipping mode.
2. I would like to know if that rotary switch has the chance to set only four positions. (I wish because it will be Very useful.)

Thank you!

[Lubdar]

Hey there,
1.) You should be able to use a 2P6T rotary switch with that layout just fine
2.) This particular rotary switch doesn't have a way to set to only 4 positions. You'll just have to remember that. There are alpha 2P6T rotary switches out there which have a washer with a knib which allows you to adjust if you want it to only go to a certain number of positions, they aren't as beefy as the one you've got, but in my experience I've never had an issue with them.
Hope this helps.

[JackSkellington]

Thanks for your help.
Problem solved, more or less.

I could decide to solder this 6 position rotary, that I have already, and use 4 position ignoring other 2 , but I don't like too much the idea. Or I could buy this kind of DPDT On/On/On http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/DPDT_on_on_on.png and use it like this: http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/DPDT_on_on_on_as_SP3T.png.

Too bad, I would had a rotary switch, most of my pedals have toggle switch.
I'll see.

[Lubdar]

yeah on-on-on is probably a better solution for this situation

[JackSkellington]

I really wanted to use in this project a rotary switch in this project.
The "special" on-on-on switch I found is more expensive than regular. Have to be "Z". And more expensive even than any rotary switch I found.

So probably I have to buy again the right (or better) component.
Which rotary switch should be perfect for this project? I would like a 4 position and having a no clipping mode further the 3 modes included in the layout.
I'm looking this page: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch.html.
A good four posistion for this project should be a "ROTARY SWITCH 2 POLE 4 POSITION". Right?

I have some doubts about the size of the shaft, 15mm or 17mm? I want it about the same of a normal potentiometer alpha with base diameter of 16mm. I assume I have to buy the 15mm shaft. But... just to be sure...

Thanks!

[Lubdar]

Heh if you really wanted to use a rotary switch on this project, then the one below should work.
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/26mm-enclosed-1p2-12t/
you only need 1 pole, since you are using the point after the opamp to ground to select diodes/(no diodes).
These are nice because as you'll see (if you buy it) that you can use the washer they provide to limit the number of throws being used.  that way you can limit it to just 4 positions.  The shaft is a little bit tall, i have just recently started cutting a little bit off the top so that the height of all the knobs outside of the enclosure are the same.
One pole should work, the only other reasons you'd want other poles is if you are going to be making "Switching" changes in other parts of the circuit.

Hope this helps.
  Lubdar

[JackSkellington]

Well, thanks, again.
I used to place my order by Tayda, and seems to me the rotary switch you have linked should be this http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-1-pole-12-position-alpha-sr2611f.html I can see it also from the datasheet, where I can read One Lockwasher Piece. So it could be that the right rotary switch.
It's a bit more expensive, but still less than toggle switch "Z", (if I have buy the rotary switch from Tayda).
Never mind how position it has, I can setting just 4, somehow.

Now I have to know what means "Non-Shorting (break-before-make)" and "Shorting (Make-Before-Break)".

[Lubdar]

Sounds like it should work out well.
taken from Beavis Audio:
"Non-shorting" means that when you switch the positions, the switch breaks the connection with the current position before engaging the next
"Shorting" means that when you switch positions, the switch the leaves the current connection intact while switching to the new position and then disconnects the current connection.

I'd go with the "shorting" option.

You would need to connect the pole on the rotary switch to ground, and then have the connections for diode clipping wired to the different throws of the switch.

You can read up more about switches here:
https://web.archive.org/web/20130225164157/http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Switches/
Hope this helps,
   Lubdar

[JackSkellington]

Thank you for the link. I visit Beavis Audio rarely since that have change address.

I'm sorry, but more answers I got, more question I have!

Ok the thing about shorting an non-shorting.

But on Tayda web site, where I have to buy, the rotary switch with positions setting, those black (plastic I assume), are non-shorting, while the shorting (with knurled metal shaft) could have not the lock washer to set the number of position. I could write to Tayda to be sure.

Or rather maybe, I can buy a 2 pole 4 position ignoring the second useless pole, it has metal shaft, it is shorting and with the right number of positions. It is a problem ignoring the second pole? Because this seems to me the easy and cheap solution. I'm messing myself with this rotary!

[Lubdar]

There's no problem if you ignore the other pole, its just a waste of a pole that's all.

[JackSkellington]

Ok, Lubdar. I guess I can use a shorting 2P4T.

I have some doubts about the size of the shaft, 15mm or 17mm? I want it about the same of a normal potentiometer alpha with base diameter of 16mm. I assume I have to buy the 15mm shaft. But... just to be sure...

15mm or 17mm? This is the last info I need.

[Lubdar]

Without seeing the data sheet I would assume they're talking about the footprint. The main issue is making sure the diameter of the shafts willwork with your knobs. I'd personally go with the 17mm just since it might be a little bigger and have slightly larger spacing of terminals. But if you have enough space i'd go for the larger size.
Glad I could be of help 

[JackSkellington]

This is the Specifications:

ALPHA 25mm (I think this is the base diameter)
15mm Shaft (This is the lenght, but just of the knurled part? Or the whole part included the thread?) My question.
6mm shaft diameter (This should be ok with the knobs of the regular pots)
Spline Shaft (No problem with it)
2 Pole (OK)
4 Position (OK)
Shorting (Make-Before-Break) (OK)
Solder Lugs (OK)

I don't want to risk to have a shaft too much long and set his knob higher than other.
Unfortunately I can't find the datasheet of this exact rotary switch.

This is my really last question.

Thanks.

[Lubdar]

Heh i don't mind the questions

If its a metal shaft then you might have knobs sticking up higher than others, but only a slight bit, if its plastic then you can trim it down.  (I do that with the alpha 2p6t knobs) The 15 mm should include the threads.
can you paste the link to the switch?

[JackSkellington]

Sure!
This is the shaft lenght of 15mm:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2511-3583.html.

This 17mm:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/rotary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-4-position-alpha-sr2511.html.