My Arcadiator is... here!

[Stomptown]

Pictures coming in a couple of hours. Here's a demo of sorts, I improvised this mess

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/kuato-design-stompboxes/pantera-in-arcade-minor[/soundcloud]

Imma gonna record the Bonus Stage some more out of the song context later in the day, and my buddy will be doing his own demo with video and all, can't wait for him to finish, he does it very very well.

Best circuit ever Fredrik I am so grateful!

Dude...  My wife just walked in a commented on how awful this sounded, which means:  IT'S FREAKING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!  What a stellar build too and I absolutely love the demo.  It's like taking Kyuss and Queens of the Stone Age and putting them in a blender with a Nintendo console!

[rullywowr]

Dude...  My wife just walked in a commented on how awful this sounded, which means:  IT'S FREAKING AWESOME!!!!!!!!! 

LOLz!   You win the interwebz for today. 

[LJangel]

sweet!  what is that thing next to the toggle switch, some sort of led?

[Hangingmonkey]

Hey, that's a great demo and the 2nd LFO sounds like a great idea. Any chance you'd care to share how to wire up the 2nd LFO?


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[Cortexturizer]

absolutely, just give me until I can get home from work, I'll get right down to it

@LJangel, it's the amp jewel light, but, since it draws so much power I just replaced the bulb in there with an ultrabright LED, actually the guy that made the amp I'm using proposed I do so, he sometimes does it himself

@Stomptown, thank you man, I laughed very hard on your comment

[Martan]

Also very interested in pulling this off. Have the Arcadiator working. Just the LFO section from the Shoot the Moon?

[Cortexturizer]

sorry guys been crazy busy, I just got home and will draw the thingy asap

[Cortexturizer]

Okay guys I cooked this fast in Inkscape. So I think you'll manage fine, D1 and D2 are the pads for the potentiometer on board (you need two because lugs 2 and 3 are connected already on board). The LFO has the S1 and S2 pads on it (be it a vero or a pcb it makes no difference right) so once again you need just one lug of a pot and it's wiper.
The LFO outputs V1 and V2 which are the lugs of the LDR/vactrol.
Lugs P1 and P2 of the actual potentiometer will serve either instead of D1 and D2 when in Depth mode or instead S1 and S2 when in LFO mode, so you're using the pot that you would normally use with the arcadiator to control the speed of the LFO that outputs resistance that'll serve as a pot instead.
Do not forget to connect V2 to D2, wire the 3pdt as shown and you're golden. Have fun!
Oh, and NC on the 3pdt stands for not connected...

P.S. When building the STM LFO be sure to include the Wave pot/trimpot because it will have a large effect on getting the sweep as symmetrical as possible. Having it symmetrical only really matters with ultra slow speeds but most of the fun lies  on faster speeds so, it's not crucial but I spent a ton of time on getting it there. Not sure about the right choice of the LDR here, I settled on one of the expensive Advanced Photonix univibe ones from smallbear that I had lying around, and to tell you the truth the Tayda one wasn't nearly as good. I used the ultra bright white LED here. Experiment, use your ears, and it will probably sound good at some point. I am anxious to hear your own demos of the thing, I know you'll have so much fun with this.

[Hangingmonkey]

Thanks, I appreciate the time taken to write up the details of the mod. Looking forward to trying to replicate it. Just waiting for ICs and pots to arrive. I'll post up a build report when it's done.
Cheers


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[Martan]

Thanks for the hook up help. New to actually laying out and vero-ing circuits, but trying to learn. I want to design a vero for the LFO board but want to make sure I understand what you did. I am thinking that I need all of the middle block that I've outlined in the schematic below, plus the ldr. The wave and Depth pots will be trimmers on the board, and the Speed pot is what I'm using the pot on the arcadiator board for. Then, hook up the lugs of the LDR to the switch as V1 and V2? Do I need all of the power filtering from the STM circuit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Cortexturizer]

You can omit R6, R7 and D1 from the part that you've highlighted in the schematics. Those are just there to give the indication of LFO speed.
The rest you got fine, it's as you have written it. You don't need the power filtering from the STM.
For a range of different speeds try out different polar caps in the LFO, I got the 47uF and 10uF on a switch for super slow and fast enough for me settings.

all of that said, I think that Rej at Grind Customs sells this exact modulation circuit on a fabbed board so you can save yourself some time and troubleshootin' and just get it from there. I would have done had I not been so impatient to try this out.

Let me know how it goes

[Cortexturizer]

Here's a video I'd promised. My friend, by his own admission, isn't really the right guy for doing this nintendo stuff hehe but he did fine although the bonus stage might have come across stronger had he held the Blend control lower in the mix

[juansolo]

Still awesome 

[Hangingmonkey]

Im getting a video has been removed message

[Cortexturizer]

EDIT: Should be okay now...